Dana 44 Swap Parts Help - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 13 Old 10-13-2021, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
K5TBL
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Dana 44 Swap Parts Help

I know there are hundreds of these swap threads out there but mine is a bit different.

I'm putting in full width axles, D44 in front and Ford 9" in rear.

I have the axles and have only one question....

Can someone point me to a supplier for front hubs that are 5 on 5 bolt pattern?

The axle I got is front drum breaks off a 1970 F-100, I can find kits to do front disc conversions but they are all 5 on 5.5.

I'd like to be able to use the JK wheels I have with out the need for an adapter.

Getting Ford 9" axles with a 5 on 5 pattern is no problem but so far have had no luck finding front hubs for the D44.


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post #2 of 13 Old 10-13-2021, 04:55 PM
bruinjeeper
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@daddyjeep87 I believe runs this setup. (Minus bolt pattern I believe)

I think he's actually going to be moving on from that setup shortly if I recall. He'd be able to give you some pointers for sure. Consider this a bump

~YJOTM MAY '16, JUL '19, NOV '21~


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post #3 of 13 Old 10-13-2021, 10:46 PM
timatoe
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Are you sure those JK wheels will even clear front hubs? I've never measured them or anything like that, but I'd wager they won't.

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post #4 of 13 Old 10-14-2021, 07:11 AM
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I'm running 5x5.5 on mine. You could have the hubs and rotors re-drilled to the bolt pattern that you need.

87 YJ, 5.7/TH350/NP241/HP Dana44/9", Custom 4 link/ Radius Arms, ADS Nitrogen Shocks, 35" Cooper STT


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post #5 of 13 Old 10-14-2021, 07:15 AM
StanF
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timatoe View Post
Are you sure those JK wheels will even clear front hubs? I've never measured them or anything like that, but I'd wager they won't.
Timatoe has pointed out your biggest problem - the 5x5 wheels won't fit over the front locking hub.

If you find something that works, you will likely have to do an entire knuckles out conversion.

You should just get a JK front Dana 44 if you want to run a particular JK wheel. (and a matching rear JK Dana 44 to get the matching width)


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post #6 of 13 Old 10-14-2021, 07:22 AM Thread Starter
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I called them JK wheels cause that's what they are off of but they are aftermarket wheels.

On closer inspection these may be 5 on 5 / 5 on 5.5!

If that's the case problem solved.
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post #7 of 13 Old 10-14-2021, 08:09 AM
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I wonder if the JK dana 44 outers knuckles would fit the older Dana 44's.
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post #8 of 13 Old 10-14-2021, 09:25 AM
DarkSideofWill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StanF View Post
You should just get a JK front Dana 44 if you want to run a particular JK wheel. (and a matching rear JK Dana 44 to get the matching width)
Quote:
Originally Posted by shaggyjim View Post
I wonder if the JK dana 44 outers knuckles would fit the older Dana 44's.
Don't the Wrangler front Dana 44's have smaller shafts and tubes than the older/truck front Dana 44's?
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post #9 of 13 Old 10-14-2021, 09:39 AM
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The old school D44 hubs are 4.25" in diameter so the center hole in the wheel needs to be at least that. Even with a 5x5 wheel pattern, that only leaves 3/8" of material outside of the hole which is not a lot and probably will push the countersink of the lug stud into the center bore. That said, I'd be very surprised if those wheels posted above will have a large enough center bore just based on 1/2" hole diameter and the amount of material left between center bore and lug hole.

You could technically get the hubs re-drilled like said above but you definitely start running out of material on the wheel between the center bore and lug hole with 5x5. That said, the lug stud itself would likely need to be shaved on one side just in order to be installed or the button head on the back side will run into the hub itself. IMO, with a double axle swap, a new set of wheels especially when you aren't looking at beadlocks is rather trivial compared to the rest of the project and that's what I ended up doing.
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post #10 of 13 Old 10-14-2021, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkSideofWill View Post
Don't the Wrangler front Dana 44's have smaller shafts and tubes than the older/truck front Dana 44's?
TJ 44s are basically a 44 center section with dana 30 outers.

JK 44s are much beefier than TJs, but they only have 1/4" wall tubes vs the f-250 44's 1/2" tubes. 3/8s axle sleeves and a truss solve that problem though.

JK Rubicon 44s also have 32 spline shafts and a 1350 U-joint VS the old 44's 30 spline shafts and 760x joints. The ring and pinion is larger as well.
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post #11 of 13 Old 10-14-2021, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randonexplosion View Post
TJ 44s are basically a 44 center section with dana 30 outers.

JK 44s are much beefier than TJs, but they only have 1/4" wall tubes vs the f-250 44's 1/2" tubes. 3/8s axle sleeves and a truss solve that problem though.

JK Rubicon 44s also have 32 spline shafts and a 1350 U-joint VS the old 44's 30 spline shafts and 760x joints. The ring and pinion is larger as well.

That was kinda what I was thinking. It would be interesting moving to a 1350 joint but thinking about it the inner C on the older 44's won't allow that large of joint so the new 44's probably have a larger inner C to work with.
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post #12 of 13 Old 10-14-2021, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waternut View Post
... IMO, with a double axle swap, a new set of wheels especially when you aren't looking at beadlocks is rather trivial compared to the rest of the project.....
Exactly!!

I wouldn't try to base a build around a set of wheels.
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post #13 of 13 Old 10-15-2021, 10:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K5TBL View Post
I called them JK wheels cause that's what they are off of but they are aftermarket wheels.

On closer inspection these may be 5 on 5 / 5 on 5.5!

If that's the case problem solved.
This style of wheels is what I like to call one size fits nothing. I really despise universal wheels. One of the most important parts of a wheel fit is its fit at the hub. Concentric wheel spacers can cure this but some are plastic...... Really??? Some just do not fit well, but most universal wheels do not have them installed. With a proper set of alloy concentric spacers they become ok. I believe that a wheel that does not fit the hub center correctly via spacer or not is unsafe... why? because it is unsafe if you understand anything about physics...... Oh..... and my never ending experience with them......

I really prefer wheels that are direct fits.

I 1000% agree that you do not base your swap on a set of wheels.

Re-drilling rotors and hubs can be sketchy for reasons already mentioned.
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If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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