Cranks but nothing - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 36 Old 10-15-2020, 07:57 AM
Wabatuckian
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TSEJEEPERS View Post
There is a place to hook a OBD1 scanner up.
It is in the wiring loom driver's side.
It should have a cap on it.
Sorry not sure how to put a picture up without Photoshop.
Are these the ones? This is AMC-style, what my '85 Cherokee used. I don't know how long Chrysler kept it, though, before switching connector styles.

Josh

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post #17 of 36 Old 10-15-2020, 08:21 AM
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Yes I think so.
It is on the driver's side, engine bay, above the ECM.
Mine is a 93.
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post #18 of 36 Old 10-15-2020, 08:32 AM
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post #19 of 36 Old 10-15-2020, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wabatuckian View Post
Are these the ones? This is AMC-style, what my '85 Cherokee used. I don't know how long Chrysler kept it, though, before switching connector styles.

Josh
This one is exclusive to the 4.2L Carter BBDII system. It is not the configuration for the Chrysler OBDI connector.
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If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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post #20 of 36 Old 10-15-2020, 05:15 PM
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Gotcha. I thought my '85 had them mounted on a metal bracket. Couldn't tell from the pic if they were the same, not mounted.

I'll see if I can kick up a pinout on the internet in the morning. Time to help get the kids in bed now.

Josh
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post #21 of 36 Old 10-16-2020, 05:57 AM
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^^^^the advantage of an incandescent test light is that it will glow dim for poor continuity while a VOM will show 12.8V even if there is not enough ampacity to turn on the computer... In fact, you can ‘threshold’ a test light with a VOM and a few resistors with meter on Ohms and get an idea by the light’s brightness or dimness of what’s going on.
That’s a visual shortcut of ‘voltage drop’ when looking for a bad wire or bad connection.

So you need both, really.
This works because volts aren’t really an indication of power, volts are an expression of the difference in electrical potential of two points in a circuit. The same 12V wire connected to power will show practically no volts at each end of good wire when tested for volts but may show 1.2V or something- even 5 volts etc.- if there’s a bad wire.
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[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #22 of 36 Old 10-16-2020, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so used my multi meter and grounded to battery and probed pin 3 labeled battery and i got 12.4 volts. The I tried pin 4 sensor ground and got .02 volts using pin 3 as power, then tested pin 5 fuel pump ground and i got 12.4 volts using pin 3.
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post #23 of 36 Old 10-16-2020, 02:52 PM
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Sounds like you have computer power.

Maybe I missed it: Have you pulled your ignition module and had it tested yet?

Josh
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post #24 of 36 Old 10-17-2020, 12:24 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wabatuckian View Post
Sounds like you have computer power.

Maybe I missed it: Have you pulled your ignition module and had it tested yet?

Josh
No I havent. Is there a way to test them at home ?
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post #25 of 36 Old 10-17-2020, 06:51 AM
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I’m getting confused. 1994 does not have an ignition module.

[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #26 of 36 Old 10-17-2020, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
I’m getting confused. 1994 does not have an ignition module.
You're right. I pictured "inside the distributor" and typed ignition module instead of what I meant. My fault.

Camshaft position sensor, inside the distributor. Also, check the crank sensor (I believe it has one.)

Josh
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post #27 of 36 Old 10-17-2020, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wabatuckian View Post
Sounds like you have computer poweh
So a) see that the ohms for the feed are low or if there’s a bad wire or connector giving voltage but no ampacity and b) proof out the CEL

You need to know that to go further. And I can’t recall and didn’t read back: does the fuel pump prime?
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[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #28 of 36 Old 10-17-2020, 08:44 AM
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This thing:



And this thing:

crank-sensor.jpg

The crank sensor should be in the bellhousing on that one, isn't it, Fish? Most of those I learned on were on the front by the hole for the magnetic timing pickup for the scanner, but the "new" (at the time) '94s started moving them to the back, I thought.

Anyway, test these. You can ohm them out (I don't have the specs; you'll have to look them up in your manual, but the reading shouldn't be open or infinite.) You can also check for millivolt pulses as the engine is cranking.

My manuals stop at around 1986 or 1987 XJ, and only cover 2.5L I4 AMC and 2.8L V6 GM engines before jumping over to the ZJ and WJ Grand Cherokees. Not sure how much is similar between the ZJ I6 and yours.
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post #29 of 36 Old 10-17-2020, 11:38 PM
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crank but no start with no spark is 98% of the time the Crank Position Sensor on the 91-95 YJ/XJ - IF the jeep was running before and just started exhibiting this behavior.

Did the jeep run fine and then all the sudden present no-spark at crank?

The issue about jumpering the fuel pump relay is most likely an issue with your ignition system on the column. Possibly an adjustment to the rod slide or you have a bad ground to the left of the e-brake handle just under the dash on the lower A pillar.

Did the Jeep ever run after you performed brain surgery on the ECU? Why did you perform brain surgery on your ECU?

You have a lot of possibly unrelated issues, but without a good working history of the Jeep, it's hard to say if one is causing the other or all unrelated.
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post #30 of 36 Old 10-18-2020, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
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Here’s what happen. Was driving then stopped running. Cranked and nothing. Has new coil, distributor and wires. Jeep has no spark no fuel and no cel. I google drive those symptoms and read it was the capacitors in the écu so I changed them out.
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