Chassis Saver vs Bedliner? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 17 Old 02-04-2018, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
MigMan1313
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Chassis Saver vs Bedliner?

Iím going to be using chassis saver to restore my frame. My question is for the bottom of the tub, and inside fenders, etc. should I use chassis saver there too or should I spray those with raptor-liner? I have no previous experience with either product so Iím not sure what would be best. I have read that some people use an under coat product on the bottom of the tub then top coat with bedliner. So thatís another option is to use both? What do you think is best?


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post #2 of 17 Old 02-04-2018, 07:10 PM
Towny72
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Ask 10 Jeep guys and you will probably get 11 different answers.

I am doing the same thing currently, I am going to use chassis saver for my underside and firewall. If and I am not 100% sold chassis saver does what they say I think it will give great underside protection.

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post #3 of 17 Old 02-05-2018, 08:00 AM
timatoe
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You'll want something under any liner, it's not meant to go to bare metal (if that's an issue).


I think for the under side Chassis Saver is probably just fine.

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post #4 of 17 Old 02-05-2018, 10:11 AM
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Also, you'll want something smooth, even, high gloss as its sheds salt and debris better.. The chassis saver is a smooth finish... Flat paints tend to adhear the road grime a bit more...

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post #5 of 17 Old 02-05-2018, 11:49 AM
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I did mine about ten years ago, I did the entire thing in chassis saver, then a primer, then bedliner, then finally for the outside I used rustoleum

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post #6 of 17 Old 02-06-2018, 05:37 PM
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+1 chassis saver

[size=ď3Ē]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #7 of 17 Old 09-16-2020, 08:15 AM
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Does anyone have experience with using chassis saver on a frame that has part rust and part painted surface? I dont have a sand blaster but they claim you can use sand it with 60 or 80 grit sandpaper. Has anyone use sandpaper on the painted surfaces?
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post #8 of 17 Old 09-16-2020, 09:40 AM
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If I were going this deep.

I'd go all the way and flap the entire frame and then chassis saver it.

It all depends on how much Mojo u got into this.

You could always just quick flap the painted areas or sand and coat over it.

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post #9 of 17 Old 09-16-2020, 10:52 AM
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dumb question - what does flap mean? is that take it to bare metal?
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post #10 of 17 Old 09-16-2020, 11:23 AM
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found it - "flap wheel" on your grinder.
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post #11 of 17 Old 09-16-2020, 12:16 PM
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Yep. Makes quick work of whatever you would have on there.

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post #12 of 17 Old 09-17-2020, 07:02 AM
rpwils
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have you applied chassis saver to bar metal after using a flap wheel? I read a LOT of mixed reviews about applying it to bar metal. My frame is not that bad, just a few rust spots
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post #13 of 17 Old 09-17-2020, 07:51 AM
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I did it to my bare drivers floorboard.

And some sections of my bare tub when I stripped it for monstaliner.

What were the mixed reviews?

~YJOTM MAY '16, JULY '19~


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post #14 of 17 Old 09-17-2020, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpwils View Post
have you applied chassis saver to bar metal after using a flap wheel? I read a LOT of mixed reviews about applying it to bar metal. My frame is not that bad, just a few rust spots
So then dont flap it. Clean up the rusted out areas.... I know you can slap chassis saver over rust. And dont worry about the non problem areas.

It will save ya cost and time.

You're thinking too hard on this lol.

It's good thick stuff. Clean up what ya can and slap on the chassis saver.

~YJOTM MAY '16, JULY '19~


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post #15 of 17 Old 09-17-2020, 08:00 AM
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Read the directions - I would clean up the frame, and use rust converter, then apply the chassis saver. It is a very thick-build polyurethane paint so it seals very well. It will stop rust from continuing because it seals out air and is a very durable finish to keep it intact for a long time.
My opinion is that it does not ‘convert’ rust like two-part epoxy paint can or like rust converter does. Complaining people who say it flakes off from what I’ve seen with my own eyes are people who did little prep, no primer, and expected the miracle of de-flaking rusty metal.
I’d say it is as good and I think better than POR15, another polyurethane paint product people expect miracles from.

Fluid film inside a prepped and clean, dry frame is the next logical step.

Bedliner isn’t required- in the rust belt it may aid rusting when salty winter road applications creep under the bedliner and does its thing.

[size=ď3Ē]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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