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post #1 of 13 Old 06-20-2006, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
toates89
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charcoal canister

how would i go about disconnecting my charcoal canister? should i plug the vaccuum and leave the line to the tank and the line to the carb bowl

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post #2 of 13 Old 06-20-2006, 10:42 AM
Bob_R
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toates89
how would i go about disconnecting my charcoal canister? should i plug the vaccuum and leave the line to the tank and the line to the carb bowl
I guess the first question is 'why' do you want to disconnect it, it hurts nothing as far as power and is only there to help regulate the pressure and flumes in your tank from getting out.

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post #3 of 13 Old 06-20-2006, 12:23 PM
King03Kev
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Sorry to hijack post but maybe this will help you also, I've installed a Weber carb and nuttered,if I needed to hook canister back up where and how do I run the 3 lines from canister, 4th line is connected as tank vent. Note my carb does not have a port for canister vent that some other models do, I6 with weber/redline K551. I have read several post under search and there is nothing clear that I could find. Thank you.

kevyj87 '87 I6 5spd, 215,000+ miles, Herced, Nuttered, Weber, HEI, RE 4", 1" BL, 4:11's, np231, 33x12.5's, SYE & shaft, 1" brown dog mm, home made bumpers front & rear, Ramsey 8,000lb winch
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post #4 of 13 Old 06-20-2006, 01:14 PM
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The lines that I removed from my canister during my carb conversion are just plugged. From what I have read, you should leave the line to the tank in tact.
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post #5 of 13 Old 06-20-2006, 02:59 PM
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I see what you are saying, but I can't really help too much. I can tell you why you have to have it. All jeep fuel tanks are vented in addition to this there are also two pressure relief and rollover valves. The dual function valves relieve fuel tank pressure and prevent fuel flow through the fuel tank vent hoses in an hopefully unlikely event of a rollover. These valves are normally open allowing fuel vapor to vent to the canister where it is stored until it can be consumed by the engine under controlled conditions. So, if you do decide to rid canister you need to run these lines with a rollover vent valve much like those used for the diffs high on the body somewhere. But not in a way to make a dangerous possible fire. I guess all I'm trying to say is if you block a line, make sure you know what it is for and the consequences.

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post #6 of 13 Old 06-20-2006, 03:19 PM
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The more I think about it, I would not just run those lines up somewhere if you are going to disconnect everything block them off. The only thing you may have to watch for is gas tank pressure (causing possible line blow out)as it will not be vented anymore. the line that is suppose to go to the carbulator is a line that vents the fuel bowl to the cannister. I would just block that one off and leave the rest intact and see how she runs. It should be fine.

GROWING OLDER IS MANDATORY, GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL TREAD LIGHTLY

Last edited by Bob_R; 06-20-2006 at 03:31 PM.
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post #7 of 13 Old 06-20-2006, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toates89
how would i go about disconnecting my charcoal canister? should i plug the vaccuum and leave the line to the tank and the line to the carb bowl
No I would not just block those lines, hope you have been reading the thread you started.
Again, three lines go to the cannister the one on top is the is the vacuum signal, this opens the purge tube to allow gasses to be drawn out of the cannister and the third line is the gas tank/roll over valve line. There are three of these but they come together somewhere toward the gas tank and become one to the canister. Old style tanks used to vent to the atmosphere through the gas cap. Ours does not do this.

GROWING OLDER IS MANDATORY, GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL TREAD LIGHTLY
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post #8 of 13 Old 06-20-2006, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atomicmoose
The lines that I removed from my canister during my carb conversion are just plugged. From what I have read, you should leave the line to the tank in tact.
So what draws out the gasses that accumulate in the canister if you block everything else. I suppose that is the most correct if your going to block it all leave the tank and rollover valves intact. It would worry me as to where are those gases going on a hot day off roading - accumulating in the cannister that can only take so much it's right next to your exhaust!

GROWING OLDER IS MANDATORY, GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL TREAD LIGHTLY
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post #9 of 13 Old 06-20-2006, 07:56 PM
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On my '87 there are 4 lines, I have left the tank vent intact and hooked to canister, took the 2 lines that went to old carb, canister vent and manifold vacuum, and temporarely connected them together, the ported vac hose is just plugged. I have had no problems other than wondering if this is safe or not.

kevyj87 '87 I6 5spd, 215,000+ miles, Herced, Nuttered, Weber, HEI, RE 4", 1" BL, 4:11's, np231, 33x12.5's, SYE & shaft, 1" brown dog mm, home made bumpers front & rear, Ramsey 8,000lb winch
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post #10 of 13 Old 06-20-2006, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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bobr i have the 4.2 so i think it is different
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post #11 of 13 Old 06-20-2006, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toates89
bobr i have the 4.2 so i think it is different
yep, hookup and amount are different but the theory still goes.

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post #12 of 13 Old 06-20-2006, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
toates89
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i just did the test provided by http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/evaporat.htm so i know mine is shot so i was gunna just dissconnect it
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post #13 of 13 Old 06-23-2006, 07:00 PM
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The valve (on my 90 4.2 was shot so I was getting basically an open vacum line on the purge. What I did was plug the manifold vacum line at the manifold and ran the ported vacum from the carb to the purge line. The extra air doesn't seem to hurt at open throttle and I'm still keeping the fumes from venting too badly to tha atmospere. Eventually I'll replace the carbon cartridge, It's the right thing to do.
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