Carb Conversion - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 14 Old 09-18-2021, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
Whaleyman
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Carb Conversion

I just purchased at 88 Yj. PO couldn’t get the thing to stay running, it idled terribly and would die after a minute or so. He had the carb replaced once so it has a reman BBD carb on it. He says it lasted a few weeks running right but then got worse than before it was replaced. My question is if anyone could point me to a conversion kit that would able me to swap to a mechanical carb, even if it doesn’t fix the issue right away I don’t want anymore issues out of this reman carb.


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post #2 of 14 Old 09-18-2021, 07:24 PM
timatoe
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Google, Carter BBD Idle Tubes they clog easily and you can open them up fairly easy. They used to sell a kit, but I think that company went under.

Otherwise search for the MC2100 series carbs.

In either case, you'll want to do the Nutter Bypass as well. There's a good write up on that here in the FAQ's.
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post #3 of 14 Old 09-18-2021, 10:41 PM
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I have 2 jeeps both 88's with 258s. 1 had a carter bbd and it was wore out so I replaced it with a Motorcraft 2100. Love it! My other had a weber 32/36, I was constantly having to tune it. I replaced it with a 2100 also. I can say my jeeps have never ran or idled better. Its tough finding a 2100 but just start looking at wrecking yards and one will turn up.
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post #4 of 14 Old 09-19-2021, 05:05 AM
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There’s “new” ones (mc2100s) available if you want to just open your wallet - or used to be. Couple of reliable sources; I think there’s one in Massachusetts that has them along with HEI stuff (which is their primary business) but I’ve not had a 258 and caint recall a good answer

[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #5 of 14 Old 09-19-2021, 07:14 AM Thread Starter
Whaleyman
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Originally Posted by timatoe View Post
Google, Carter BBD Idle Tubes they clog easily and you can open them up fairly easy. They used to sell a kit, but I think that company went under.

Otherwise search for the MC2100 series carbs.

In either case, you'll want to do the Nutter Bypass as well. There's a good write up on that here in the FAQ's.

I like this approach the best for now. Would the idle tubes still be worth looking into even on a relatively new reman carb?


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post #6 of 14 Old 09-20-2021, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Whaleyman View Post
I like this approach the best for now. Would the idle tubes still be worth looking into even on a relatively new reman carb?


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Yep, I bought a "new" re-man and the tubes clogged within about 3 months. I ordered the kit they used to make and ran it until I went fuel injection, sold the carb to a member here and as far as I know it's still going. 10yrs or longer now.

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post #7 of 14 Old 09-23-2021, 07:46 AM
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As others stated, Nutter Bypass is first, and I'm kinda oddball, I like the Webers.

AZHunter is spot on though, had a 32/36 and had to change jetting. At full open throttle it still smelled a bit lean. Thing was fast as all hell, though, even got my nose in front of an older hopped up Firebird (70's) model, up until 40 MPH, lol. If burning tires is your thing, it hauling but around corners like you're Steve McQueen in a Jeep, 32/36 is awesome. But it sucks on interstates and going up steep bridges on highways. I crossed the SkyWay Bridge (Saint Pete, FL) with it, that sucked, lol.

Then I switched to the Weber 38/38, it's better gas mileage, if I keep my foot off the gas, and WAY better for everyday driving. Still has oomph, but can get me up to 65 without feeling like the engine is gonna wind out, and I cruise at 45 MPH in 4th at low RPM. It was bought from RedLine and specifically set up for the Jeep. I was done in an hour.

As for the Motocraft and stuff, sorry, can't help on that, just know that people really like them.

Another option, is something like a Heolly Sniper, still do the Nutter bypass, then a Sniper kit for EFI. I would strip out all the old wiring though first, just to keep the engine bay cleaner, from adding wires. But they are simple, 4 wires to hook up O think?
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post #8 of 14 Old 09-24-2021, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gehlsurf View Post
As others stated, Nutter Bypass is first, and I'm kinda oddball, I like the Webers.

AZHunter is spot on though, had a 32/36 and had to change jetting. At full open throttle it still smelled a bit lean. Thing was fast as all hell, though, even got my nose in front of an older hopped up Firebird (70's) model, up until 40 MPH, lol. If burning tires is your thing, it hauling but around corners like you're Steve McQueen in a Jeep, 32/36 is awesome. But it sucks on interstates and going up steep bridges on highways. I crossed the SkyWay Bridge (Saint Pete, FL) with it, that sucked, lol.

Then I switched to the Weber 38/38, it's better gas mileage, if I keep my foot off the gas, and WAY better for everyday driving. Still has oomph, but can get me up to 65 without feeling like the engine is gonna wind out, and I cruise at 45 MPH in 4th at low RPM. It was bought from RedLine and specifically set up for the Jeep. I was done in an hour.

As for the Motocraft and stuff, sorry, can't help on that, just know that people really like them.

Another option, is something like a Heolly Sniper, still do the Nutter bypass, then a Sniper kit for EFI. I would strip out all the old wiring though first, just to keep the engine bay cleaner, from adding wires. But they are simple, 4 wires to hook up O think?
I am partial to the Weber 38-DGES.

The 32/36 DGEV is too too small for any 6 cyl engine.
It uses 1 - 32mm barrel until 1/2 throttle position, then the 36mm starts to open.
No problem except if you exceed the idle speed screw's maximum setting of 1 1/2 turns in, it will run extremley rich. Due to the 32mm throttle plate CFM restrictions at idle on a 258, it will always exceed the maximum speed screw setting and run rich and poorly. Too small... The 32/36 on a Jeep 6 cyl gives Weber a bad name.

The Weber 38-DGES is "virtually" the same size as the Carterr BBD, and the Motorcraft 2100/2150, all of these have two barells that open at the same time. All excellant replacment size carburetors for the 6 cyl Jeep.

UTN
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post #9 of 14 Old 09-26-2021, 05:44 PM
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Just being the devils advocate..... Why is swapping to an older non electric BBD not a popular option over all the other carbs? Really? It is a bolt on. A no brainer. The linkages and stuff all still work. When you go to a Weber 38 or Motorcraft 2100 you are still in the range of the same CFM BBD or your engine simply will not run right without more mods. All the carbs that work well are in the same CFM flow as the original. There are older BBD carbs that did not have the stepper motor. There were a lot of different BBD carbs made so you need to be in the ball park for a 4.2L specific one but this is no different than an 2100 because they have venturi sizes cast on them and a Jeep on needs to be a 108 IIRC.


The webers and motocraft need linkage and air cleaner mods. The trans kick down linkage can be difficult for some forum members. An older CJ bbd is a solid swap if you cannot make the BBDII work right.

EDIT: the idle air tube thing is a big deal
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If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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post #10 of 14 Old 09-26-2021, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boojo35 View Post
Just being the devils advocate..... Why is swapping to an older non electric BBD not a popular option over all the other carbs? Really? It is a bolt on. A no brainer. The linkages and stuff all still work. When you go to a Weber 38 or Motorcraft 2100 you are still in the range of the same CFM BBD or your engine simply will not run right without more mods. All the carbs that work well are in the same CFM flow as the original. There are older BBD carbs that did not have the stepper motor. There were a lot of different BBD carbs made so you need to be in the ball park for a 4.2L specific one but this is no different than an 2100 because they have venturi sizes cast on them and a Jeep on needs to be a 108 IIRC.


The webers and motocraft need linkage and air cleaner mods. The trans kick down linkage can be difficult for some forum members. An older CJ bbd is a solid swap if you cannot make the BBDII work right.

EDIT: the idle air tube thing is a big deal
Well both of my 88's run sooo much better with the 2100 than with the bbd so cant really see why I would not want to stay with the bbd!
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post #11 of 14 Old 09-28-2021, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Boojo35 View Post
Just being the devils advocate..... Why is swapping to an older non electric BBD not a popular option over all the other carbs? Really? It is a bolt on. A no brainer. The linkages and stuff all still work. When you go to a Weber 38 or Motorcraft 2100 you are still in the range of the same CFM BBD or your engine simply will not run right without more mods. All the carbs that work well are in the same CFM flow as the original. There are older BBD carbs that did not have the stepper motor. There were a lot of different BBD carbs made so you need to be in the ball park for a 4.2L specific one but this is no different than an 2100 because they have venturi sizes cast on them and a Jeep on needs to be a 108 IIRC.


The webers and motocraft need linkage and air cleaner mods. The trans kick down linkage can be difficult for some forum members. An older CJ bbd is a solid swap if you cannot make the BBDII work right.

EDIT: the idle air tube thing is a big deal
I don't think you're wrong. I'm not a big carb guru, I like them, cause I think they're cool, but not hardcore into tuning. Maybe soon, I'm getting bored, lol. Used to live doing it on my bikes.

But my Jeep guy says he tosses Webers all day long, and slaps on BBD carbs and his customer's jeeps run awesome with them. He sends them out and has some piece taken out or disconnected/neutered. Maybe the stepper motor? Dunno, some EPA/smog thing on it.

So I think you're correct, but to go through that for somebody like me if doing my own work.... vs just slapping on another carb set to run. The latter is just easier and more customer friendly, IMHO. There probably is no wrong answer, just how people go about getting that answer.

Just my opinion.
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post #12 of 14 Old 09-28-2021, 05:03 PM
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There are two styles of BBD carbs. There is the BBDII and the BBD. The BBDII is and electronic feed back carb and the BBD is an older version that has no stepper motor. I think that the older BBD would be an easy swap but think I was misunderstood.

If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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post #13 of 14 Old 09-28-2021, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Boojo35 View Post
There are two styles of BBD carbs. There is the BBDII and the BBD. The BBDII is and electronic feed back carb and the BBD is an older version that has no stepper motor. I think that the older BBD would be an easy swap but think I was misunderstood.
Oh yeah, forgot about that, like I said, I'm new to these things, sort of. Atleast new to working on them, with what little I do.

It was probably me that misunderstood, clearly.

But hey, that's how I learn, being wrong and corrected alot, lol.
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post #14 of 14 Old 10-06-2021, 08:08 AM
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The problem with the Carter tubes comes from the fuel. As eco friendly as E10 gasoline might be, in an essentially open system like our older jeeps it causes issues.
Water gets soaked up and between that and the naturally more aggressive nature of alcohol, aluminum fuel lines and carb bowls can corrode, the little pieces will clog the tubes. The other issue is that when it sits in small amounts on things after shut down and builds up more varnish than straight gas.
New cars have sealed systems and either stainless or coated fuel system components. So the ethanol doesn't hurt them.
I put a few ounces of Stabil for ethanol in every fill up.
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