Can't shift into first well . . . - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 06-22-2002, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
Alheim
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1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Can't shift into first well . . .

What's the deal? I don't get it?

I have a '95 YJ, 2.5l.

I can shift into all gears well, except I have a bit of a problem shifting into first, and sometimes reverse, although I don't think the reverse is a problem.

Reverse: If I'm at a complete stop, and quickly step on the clutch and quickly put it into reverse, I get a short grinding noise. It doesn't happen if I wait a second after pusing down the clutch. Is that normal? It doesn't seem bad. Is something spinning, or something?

First: If i'm in 3rd or a higher gear, I can't get it into first after pushing down the clutch. Why is that? Is it a saftey of some sort to prevent me from going to 5th to 1st, or something? If I slow from, lets say 5th, and then I'm going really slow, and want to put it into 1st (remember, I have only put in the clutch once so far), it won't let me until I put it in neutral, let out the clutch, put it in again, and then put it into first. Is that normal?

Do you know what I mean?

Thanks!

-Alheim

(95 YJ 2.5l)


'95 YJ 123bhp 4-banger powerhouse.
UPDATE: 2.5L ENGINE RETIRED; she was still running strong at 212,000mi.
4.0 swap in progress.
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post #2 of 8 Old 06-22-2002, 09:55 PM
A.S.
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mine doesn't go into first either, even from 2nd. I have to be at an almost full stop to go into first or barely going. My second grinds too when I go from third to second.
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post #3 of 8 Old 06-22-2002, 10:06 PM Thread Starter
Alheim
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I wonder if bleeding our clutches would help . . .

'95 YJ 123bhp 4-banger powerhouse.
UPDATE: 2.5L ENGINE RETIRED; she was still running strong at 212,000mi.
4.0 swap in progress.
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post #4 of 8 Old 06-22-2002, 10:29 PM
johny1i
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Bleeding the clutches can sometimes help, but I'm afraid you later-YJ guys have a sealed clutch hydraulic system which prevents it. I hate to say it, and this is not a definite, but it sounds like your slave cylinder may be going out because mine did the exact same thing for months before finally going out one night. Again, I'm not sure about your system and whether it allows you to check the fluid level, but keep it topped off if you can. To minimize the reverse grind, try to remember to put it in reverse before cranking it if you can (like when you come out to the parking lot, etc. to leave). Check the underside of the bellhousing because sometimes you will find hydraulic fluid there if it's leaking out at the slave. My advice: don't let it get too bad before replacing it because you don't want to be stranded!

Currently an '86 CJ-7 and a '77 CJ-7 Golden Eagle---#4 and 5 following a '01 Sahara, '90 Sahara, and '85 CJ-7....
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post #5 of 8 Old 06-22-2002, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
Alheim
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No!

Too bad I don't know much about trannys.

What would a slave cylinder job cost? And what is a slave cylinder, anyway?

Gracias!

'95 YJ 123bhp 4-banger powerhouse.
UPDATE: 2.5L ENGINE RETIRED; she was still running strong at 212,000mi.
4.0 swap in progress.
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post #6 of 8 Old 06-23-2002, 06:49 AM
johny1i
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Now, this is still assuming that the slave cylinder is even your problem, which it may or may not be (don't want to scare you too much!). Most times I have to be stopped (or close to it) to get into first; furthermore, mine will occasionally grind going into reverse for apparently no reason. Anyway, just in case--inside the bellhousing (that large rounded piece that connects the engine to the transmission) is the clutch and the slave. The clutch is a big disk-type object about 12" in diameter and the slave is the little hydraulic "piston/arm" that engages and disengages the clutch--small enough to fit in your hand and connected to the end of the hydraulic lines coming from your clutch pedal/fluid reservoir assembly). With time this piston will start to leak and the clutch won't properly engage, thus causing it to be hard to put it in gear. Like I mentioned above, if you have the capability of topping off the clutch fluid reservoir, you can get by for a while, I'm just not sure about your model. If this does turn out to be the problem, make sure you (or the mechanic) replace the clutch also while you're in there because the transmission and transfer case will have to be dropped, and you don't want to have to drop all of that twice. The clutch/pressure plate assembly isn't too bad, maybe $200 or so in parts. Labor can be a b!tch, though, up to $750 total for parts and labor at a shop.

Currently an '86 CJ-7 and a '77 CJ-7 Golden Eagle---#4 and 5 following a '01 Sahara, '90 Sahara, and '85 CJ-7....
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post #7 of 8 Old 06-23-2002, 08:22 AM
FLJeepGrrl
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I've got the same problem with bad grinding if I try and put it in reverse. I've found that I can get into reverse without grinding if I put it into 1st, then into reverse right away while leaving the clutch in.
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post #8 of 8 Old 06-23-2002, 09:15 PM
A.S.
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The reverse may not me syncronized, always put it into first and then go into reverse, No more grinding. This does it for me everytime.
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