CAD to Single Axle Conversion Issue - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 17 Old 06-09-2021, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
rodger1954
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CAD to Single Axle Conversion Issue

I finally took the step to switch out my YJ front disconnect axle system for the solid single axle like the TJ's. I purchased the Spicer 75814-2X inner and outer axle setup and a Spartan Locker. Everything went smoothly until I placed the axle in the shaft and attempted the bolt up the hub. The top of the hub wants to cinch up to the yoke, but the bottom remains out nearly 1/4 inch. I have remove the axle several times to shift how it sits with no success. I am wondering if the Dana Spicer 43342 bushing in the axle(which the axle does slide through) is somehow setting the axle off kilter. Has anyone had this similar issue? How can the bushing be removed if it is the culprit?

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post #2 of 17 Old 06-09-2021, 01:07 PM
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You don't want that shift collar in there. Even if the axle does slide completely through it, it will eventually wear through your axle shaft. You need to remove it. The CAD assembly (the wart with two tubes coming out of it) is easily removed from the axle, which will allow you to remove the shift collar. The entire assembly can be removed and replaced with a blank plate. I believe it's four 5/16" bolts. They might be metric.

After removing the CAD assembly, try bolting the hub up again. If it won't seat all the way into the axle, the shaft you bought may be too long. There is more than 1/4" of engagement on the axle splines, so I don't think misalignment is the reason it won't bolt in.

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post #3 of 17 Old 06-09-2021, 01:26 PM
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It's been many many years since I did that but there shouldn't be anything the axle shaft is going through between one end and the other except the oil seal.

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post #4 of 17 Old 06-09-2021, 01:51 PM
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The guys are right, nothing between the spline socket in the diff and the knuckle. What did you do for a seal in the diff? I'd also try it with the locker removed and the stock spider gears back in.
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post #5 of 17 Old 06-09-2021, 04:16 PM
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i wont re-iterate.

Do as Awesome suggested. And to Don's point, i'm thinking this might be a locker install issue giving you the off kilter effect.

Did you take photos along the way? Could they be posted? measurements and the "off kilter" situation you're experiencing at the outer?
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post #6 of 17 Old 06-09-2021, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the response. The shift collar is out along with the outer seal and a flat cover plate installed. My question is if the pressed in bushing just to the left of where the shift collar used to be could be causing the issue and how can it be removed. I laid both axles out next to each other and they appear to be the same length when tape measured. In answer to JeeperDon, I used the Napa 11800 seal. I really don't want to remove the pressed in Spicer bushing if I have to put the old CAD axle back in. I will attack the problem again tomorrow and attempt to add pics.
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post #7 of 17 Old 06-09-2021, 09:28 PM
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I don't remember there being a splined bushing pressed into the axle housing. That doesn't make sense, because if it's splined it would need to rotate.

I remember there being a seal on the far passenger inner side of the housing, right where the CAD is. Maybe someone who has done the delete more recently than me can chime in.

Regardless, if you've removed the CAD then your issue is probably with the locker install like Don said.

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post #8 of 17 Old 06-10-2021, 08:43 AM
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I seem to recall reading about some axles coming with some sort of bushing on the inner side of the cad, but have never seen one in real life. they way you describe it the shaft is stopped from going all the way in. picture?


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post #9 of 17 Old 06-12-2021, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
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i can't seem to post any pics on this site. I took everything apart again last Thursday taking pics. The locker appears to have proper clearances and the new axle does insert all the way to the polished seal area. Has anyone ever removed the bushing in the CAD area? I did find some research of someone having a similar problem.
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post #10 of 17 Old 06-12-2021, 03:40 PM
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If you aren't putting the CAD back in (why would you?) then why leave the bushing in the axle?

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post #11 of 17 Old 06-12-2021, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rodger1954 View Post
i can't seem to post any pics on this site. I took everything apart again last Thursday taking pics. The locker appears to have proper clearances and the new axle does insert all the way to the polished seal area. Has anyone ever removed the bushing in the CAD area? I did find some research of someone having a similar problem.
Make a puller tool out of threaded rod, nuts, washers, etc.. Be creative.
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post #12 of 17 Old 06-12-2021, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
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JeepDon, I was thinking of that method. I used it a few years ago for the CAD outer axle seal. Today, I checked installing the hub on the new axle without anything in the pumpkin area and there is still a misalignment issue. The axle is touching the bushing, so I think my only option is to remove it. I'll let everybody know how that goes. If anyone has any other methods for removing the bushing, let me know. i was thinking some sort of slide hammer approach might also work.
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post #13 of 17 Old 06-14-2021, 09:51 AM
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I just did this with Chromoly shafts. I did not remove that bushing. I put the 11800 seal in and added outer seals. Mine slide in no problem. Id be looking at that locker if your within a 1\4 inch that bushing isnt your problem. Its not fitting into your locker right
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post #14 of 17 Old 06-14-2021, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
I just did this with Chromoly shafts. I did not remove that bushing. I put the 11800 seal in and added outer seals. Mine slide in no problem. Id be looking at that locker if your within a 1\4 inch that bushing isnt your problem. Its not fitting into your locker right
I wonder if it's a knuckle, unit bearing mismatch. I don't recall the years but I know some older versions had a different offset and uses different rotors as a result so maybe the new shaft is not the right one and it too long.

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post #15 of 17 Old 06-15-2021, 05:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbolty View Post
I wonder if it's a knuckle, unit bearing mismatch. I don't recall the years but I know some older versions had a different offset and uses different rotors as a result so maybe the new shaft is not the right one and it too long.
I beleive 86-90 D30 use a different unit bearing. But I dont think it change the length of that shaft itself. When I was looking up the GC knuckle and brake swap they were an option but the shaft were still listed as the same between them all
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