Buyer Beware: Adams Driveshaft - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 35 Old 09-09-2019, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
Siva283
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Buyer Beware: Adams Driveshaft

So I got driveshafts from Adams front and rear. I will add a picture from my phone shortly. It was a CV shaft for the rear. The U-Joint ears broke last night the shaft is 3 months old. It was an obvious defect. They are refusing to accept that. They swear without seeing a thing with my Jeep that my angles were off so bad that the shaft was contacting the pinion flange. Which would be all but in possible with 3 degrees of compound angle. I have an 8.8. SO according to them you can be contacting the flange and have a perfectly smooth vibration free driveline. I would suggest avoiding them as this is the second issue I have had with thier drive shafts.


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Originally Posted by Magnum View Post
I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim
Quote:
Originally Posted by ldso View Post
. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luuca View Post
diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...
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Originally Posted by Overhead View Post
this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.
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post #2 of 35 Old 09-09-2019, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
Siva283
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The driveshaft in question
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20190908_074151_1568053975893.jpg  

1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum View Post
I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim
Quote:
Originally Posted by ldso View Post
. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luuca View Post
diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Overhead View Post
this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.
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post #3 of 35 Old 09-09-2019, 12:36 PM
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Whoa.

First time I ever heard a complaint about their product

Stop whining about the 'ride' - If your YJ ain't wrangling your soul free, then might I suggest you buy a stationwagon... at least you can fit all your bull**** in the back.
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post #4 of 35 Old 09-09-2019, 01:30 PM
AZdEvilYJ
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Yeah they have a pretty good reputation, so this is surprising as most of the country uses Adams or Tom Woods.

This time around, go pull you a WJ or XJ front driveshaft and take it somewhere local to be cut down, that way if you have a problem you donít have 2 telephone tough guys blaming each other. No offense, but thatís just how it works. I almost always get better service face to face.


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post #5 of 35 Old 09-09-2019, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZdEvilYJ View Post
Yeah they have a pretty good reputation, so this is surprising as most of the country uses Adams or Tom Woods.

This time around, go pull you a WJ or XJ front driveshaft and take it somewhere local to be cut down, that way if you have a problem you donít have 2 telephone tough guys blaming each other. No offense, but thatís just how it works. I almost always get better service face to face.


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He is starting to come around a little. We are kind of at a I cover shipping and he will repair the shaft. Which I am still a little sore about because its not inline with thier policy. Once I get it reinstalled I am gonna send him pictures at which point he can refund the shipping and be inline with his warranty or tell me to pack sand.

So I made this post a little quick from a gut reaction. When the shaft failed it ripped my rear soft line so since I had no brakes I got some minor body worked to do. I am gonna assume he is having a bad day too and say I jumped the gun on this a little. He still has a change to make it right.

With that said I am not knocking thier quality its amazing. I got my front driveshaft from them too. Pure Beef. I think it was a defect in one of the parts they use. I just want them to stand behind it since they have made almost $1,000 dollars of me in a one month period. I got both my driveshafts and SYE from them. But I dont buy that that driveshaft and u-joint cant handle a 3-4 degree angle. He is going off the one picture same one posted above with no other info so hes jumping the gun too I think. We shall see in a few days or a week.

1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum View Post
I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim
Quote:
Originally Posted by ldso View Post
. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luuca View Post
diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Overhead View Post
this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.
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post #6 of 35 Old 09-09-2019, 02:34 PM
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I think you owe him better pictures of the part and some of the angle in the jeep, even without it installed you can see where the SYE is and the pinion. That picture looks like it was taken during a monsoon and you can't make anything out except that it was broken.
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post #7 of 35 Old 09-09-2019, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by BaumSquadM24 View Post
I think you owe him better pictures of the part and some of the angle in the jeep, even without it installed you can see where the SYE is and the pinion. That picture looks like it was taken during a monsoon and you can't make anything out except that it was broken.

I agree. More information the better to convey your point. That picture is terrible, I'd take better pictures at multiple angles, include a close up, and show how it was in your jeep. Bust out a proteactor to show angle if needed.
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post #8 of 35 Old 09-09-2019, 04:29 PM
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Not to disrespect you but I'm with Adam's on this one. You need good pictures and we all need a full understanding of your suspension setup. You could have severe axle wrap, deep axle droop beyond what your CV can handle, or a whole host of other things. I had to design around all of these things when I modified my jeep and it's part of "doing it right". You may only be 3 degrees off at ride height but you could be 30 degrees off at full bump or droop. If you haven't looked at that yet, you really need to. I've got a limiting strap on my rear diff because my driveshaft couldn't take full droop without binding up and I'm stretched 3-4" in the rear which helps my driveshaft angle.

You won't have issues in the front because the driveshaft is so long you barely have any angle change.


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post #9 of 35 Old 09-09-2019, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
...When the shaft failed it ripped my rear soft line so since I had no brakes I got some minor body worked to do. ...
If you lost your brakes when your rear soft line was torn out then you have master cylinder issues, my man.

You should still have ~70% of your braking power when you lose the rears.

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post #10 of 35 Old 09-09-2019, 06:49 PM
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Oh dang that’s no good. Thank for sharing
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post #11 of 35 Old 09-10-2019, 03:59 AM
87TPIYJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BaumSquadM24 View Post
I think you owe him better pictures of the part and some of the angle in the jeep, even without it installed you can see where the SYE is and the pinion. That picture looks like it was taken during a monsoon and you can't make anything out except that it was broken.

Concur with this statement. If you showed me that picture I would have said its a D/s angle issue too. Many people especially with an 8.8 don't realize the flange doesnt give you a ton of angle before bind. I have seen numerous times where the flange yoke contacted resulting in a faliure that looks exactly like yours. For your own piece of mind make sure your ublolts are tight and you arent getting axle wrap. Good luck.

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post #12 of 35 Old 09-10-2019, 05:38 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87TPIYJ View Post
Concur with this statement. If you showed me that picture I would have said its a D/s angle issue too. Many people especially with an 8.8 don't realize the flange doesnt give you a ton of angle before bind. I have seen numerous times where the flange yoke contacted resulting in a faliure that looks exactly like yours. For your own piece of mind make sure your ublolts are tight and you arent getting axle wrap. Good luck.
I warned him before I sent it it was a horrible picture and I was happy to get better ones he wanted it anyway. We discussed angles as well. And there in lies my issue. I am set 3 degrees below. There is no compound angle since I centered the differential. My u-bolts are tight torques to 95ftlbs per factory spec.

Axle wrap is not an issue especially since this happend while moving alond at 1mph going by GPS. Him and I have agreed that no picture in the world right now is going to show anything useful. Once I have the driveshaft back in I will get pictures and will have an angle finder mounted in the pictures that way he himself can see what the set up is. Once he sees it is set up properly I would hope he makes it right.

I am sending him the flange as well to see there are 2 light rub marks where it looks like it contacted after failure. Once side where spicer is written in raised lettering is not even flattened out.

If it was hitting it would have failed some time before now. The driveshaft has been on since the end of may. I DD my jeep 120 miles a day round trip to work. 100 of those miles is spent climbing mountains at 80mph. If axle wrap was the issue it would have failed before now since it has about 15,000 miles on that driveshaft.

1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum View Post
I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim
Quote:
Originally Posted by ldso View Post
. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luuca View Post
diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Overhead View Post
this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.
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post #13 of 35 Old 09-10-2019, 05:43 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Awesome View Post
If you lost your brakes when your rear soft line was torn out then you have master cylinder issues, my man.

You should still have ~70% of your braking power when you lose the rears.
Negative. Once you pump the fluid out of one side of the master and air gets in the bore you lose 95% of your braking power. In 2 jeeps I have had brake lines go and same thing in both instances. You have a tiny bit of brake at the floor which is worthless in a hill period. If you still have enough pressure in your master cylinder bore to have 70 percent of your brake power I will pay you for it because none of mine have ever worked that way. If when you lost brakes on one end of your vehicle the other end still worked uneffected with just reduced power brake failures would have alot less attention. And you would have know procedures for bleeding starting with the furthest and you would also be able to start on front passenger side with no adverse problems bleeding. Once air is in the bore your screwed
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1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum View Post
I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim
Quote:
Originally Posted by ldso View Post
. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luuca View Post
diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Overhead View Post
this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.
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post #14 of 35 Old 09-10-2019, 05:53 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BaumSquadM24 View Post
I think you owe him better pictures of the part and some of the angle in the jeep, even without it installed you can see where the SYE is and the pinion. That picture looks like it was taken during a monsoon and you can't make anything out except that it was broken.
Again I offerend better pictures after work. He didnt want to wait. If 3 degrees puts the ears into the flange alot of people would have these failures. I have done 4 8.8 installs and never had this happen. Not to mention is there was a bind I would have vibes and I have had none for 15,000 miles. Take it for what you will believe what you want. The information is here and we will see how it plays out. If he makes it right once he has proof of everything. That would be awesome if he doesnt then I will make it known. When this happens I will show the same pictures with angle finder in them. That picture was taken at 4am after spending hours getting it out of the woods. My phone was dirty and as I said before he was told I have one ****ty picture with me and I would happily get better ones he didnt want them.

Your looking at a spot that has a rub mark not that was beat. Once it cracked and spun the caps it flopped around a little before it came completely off the u-joint. I rolled 30 feet backwards before a tree was nice enough to stop me. It was soft ground so the front tires didnt have enough traction on thier own to stop me.

1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum View Post
I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim
Quote:
Originally Posted by ldso View Post
. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luuca View Post
diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Overhead View Post
this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.
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post #15 of 35 Old 09-10-2019, 11:22 AM
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This is where I should move in for the kill and say that Adams is wrong, that they produce crap products and they don't know what they are talking about. But that wouldn't be true and that is not how we do business. Definitely post some better pictures. I can only vaguely tell that your picture is of a slip yoke and cannot see any useful details. Once you post some good photos I'll give you my honest expert opinion. However you feel their customer service has been, I will stay out of that one. Until we see some goo photos here are some things that I suspect.

If we were playing a word association game and you said "YJ, 8.8" I would immediately respond with "spring over, axle wrap". It is a very common problem. I don't think you mentioned it before but I'm guessing you have a spring over, is that correct?

The failure happened at low speeds, this is exactly when I would predict it to happen. At low speeds there is more torque on the drive train. The gearing is lower and the Jeep is getting going from a stop. Getting a few thousand pounds up to 5mph from a dead stop will take more effort than going from 55-60mph.

When talking about the rub marks, you may be mixing up cause and effect. If shaft breaks, the parts will break free from one another and are not likely to hit each other hard enough to cause wear marks. They for sure won't hit against each other evenly for one full rotation. So if you have one big rub mark, it could be that it bound when it broke. If the marks are all the way around (probably in four spots), it is because it was binding before it broke.

I don't agree that if it was binding it would have broke before now. Imagine this: I take a yoke and a 10 oz hammer. If I hit the yoke with the hammer, I will not be able to break it on the first try. But if I spend several months hitting it thousands and thousands of times it will eventually break. This is what I think happened to your drive shaft.

I say these things not because I'm concerned with who is to blame, I say them for a few other reasons. I know that Adams uses good quality components. I know that axle wrap can be a serious problem. But mostly, I know that if the problem is not correctly identified you could have the same sort of failure in the future, another broken shaft beating up the underside of your Jeep.

So please, post some more photos. Once you have, I will follow up with a more firm opinion on what I think could be done differently if anything.
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