The build that was never going to happen - Page 4 - JeepForum.com
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post #46 of 98 Old 07-29-2020, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
jbolty
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I need to start working on my rear driveshaft. I can just get a 1350 yoke. I have no idea what brand my SYE is but I'm sure it is probably some variant of an AA. They have a yoke for about $70 but I'm too cheap to buy that without looking for other options first. Don't really have room for a flange unless I cut the floor. Anyone have thoughts on donor vehicles? Going to the junkyard this weekend to find some sort of driveshaft I can modify.


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post #47 of 98 Old 07-30-2020, 08:32 PM
'92 vegas YJ
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Originally Posted by jbolty View Post
I need to start working on my rear driveshaft. I can just get a 1350 yoke. I have no idea what brand my SYE is but I'm sure it is probably some variant of an AA. They have a yoke for about $70 but I'm too cheap to buy that without looking for other options first. Don't really have room for a flange unless I cut the floor. Anyone have thoughts on donor vehicles? Going to the junkyard this weekend to find some sort of driveshaft I can modify.
I still run a 1310 Double cardon at the tcase side on my setup. I run 1350 at the axle end though. For my rear driveshaft I bought an XJ shaft and cut out the stock tube and made a shaft out of 2x.250 DOM.
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post #48 of 98 Old 07-31-2020, 07:53 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by '92 vegas YJ View Post
I still run a 1310 Double cardon at the tcase side on my setup. I run 1350 at the axle end though. For my rear driveshaft I bought an XJ shaft and cut out the stock tube and made a shaft out of 2x.250 DOM.
interesting. I was figuring on changing to all 1350 but I guess it does not matter and keeps the "fuse" outside the t-case. the driveshaft I got with the axles has a 1350 double cardan but no reason I have to use it.

the rear axle has a flange so I just need something to mate with that and can probably build from there with what I have

thx

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post #49 of 98 Old 07-31-2020, 09:33 AM
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All of my driveshaft U-joints are 1310 except for the rear yoke, that is a 1350. I haven't had any problems with them on 40s. yet...
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post #50 of 98 Old 07-31-2020, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by jbolty View Post
interesting. I was figuring on changing to all 1350 but I guess it does not matter and keeps the "fuse" outside the t-case. the driveshaft I got with the axles has a 1350 double cardan but no reason I have to use it.

the rear axle has a flange so I just need something to mate with that and can probably build from there with what I have

thx
Might want to rethink the 1350 route with rocks and binding it looks like you run. Didn't see tire or gear ratio.
Personally blown a 1310 CV joint while rock crawling, granted it was a Rough Country driveshaft. I run a 4:56s, 37s, and a 231/D300 doubler. Was trying to bump thru some rock when the U-joint exited from under the rig destroying the CV joint and driveshaft. With the doubler I was adding 7:1 thru the xfers with a higher diff gear putting a large amount of stress on the U-joints.

Just something to think about.

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post #51 of 98 Old 07-31-2020, 01:19 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bobracing View Post
Might want to rethink the 1350 route with rocks and binding it looks like you run. Didn't see tire or gear ratio.
Personally blown a 1310 CV joint while rock crawling, granted it was a Rough Country driveshaft. I run a 4:56s, 37s, and a 231/D300 doubler. Was trying to bump thru some rock when the U-joint exited from under the rig destroying the CV joint and driveshaft. With the doubler I was adding 7:1 thru the xfers with a higher diff gear putting a large amount of stress on the U-joints.

Just something to think about.
there is some logic in that but I'm also afraid of exploding the transfer case. I'll get it rolling and try it and see what happens. Came with 456 gears so should be ok with 37s and an auto trans. I have not broken an axle or joint for a couple years despite beating the crap out of it and I think the auto is why, not much jerking or spinning. I was going through a lot of cardan joints because I had a bad angle but the extra length will solve that problem.

supposed to be over 100 this weekend but if I can manage it my goal is to get the steering and ram installed and working. Drive shafts next week then need to tackle the brakes. time goes by fast

I have a super duty hydro boost but I think I'll hook up the brakes with the TJ master cyl first and see what happens.

THX

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post #52 of 98 Old 08-01-2020, 03:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '92 vegas YJ View Post
I still run a 1310 Double cardon at the tcase side on my setup. I run 1350 at the axle end though. For my rear driveshaft I bought an XJ shaft and cut out the stock tube and made a shaft out of 2x.250 DOM.
Yup, I did the XJ shaft set up for a spare way back when Joe posted his home brew XJ shaft thread. Prolly the least expensive way to get a CV. Try to find a low miles donor b/c the CV joint itself could be worn. Other than that it works great!

'05 LJR, 6sp, RC long arm w/MC 6" coils, 5.13 D44's w/chromo shafts, MetalCloak fenders/sliders/body armor, 37x12.50 MTR's, Warn 9.5, RockHard swing out w/full spare. <><
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post #53 of 98 Old 08-01-2020, 07:12 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RockWoRM View Post
Yup, I did the XJ shaft set up for a spare way back when Joe posted his home brew XJ shaft thread. Prolly the least expensive way to get a CV. Try to find a low miles donor b/c the CV joint itself could be worn. Other than that it works great!
90s Durango front shaft and some ford ranger front shafts work great, just need to cut shorter. I have been through a bunch because the old setup had a bad pinion angle after I changed springs. junkyard only charges about $30 so I have 2-3 on hand and leave one uncut in case we need to make one at camp for someone

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post #54 of 98 Old 08-01-2020, 10:39 AM
'92 vegas YJ
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Originally Posted by jbolty View Post
90s Durango front shaft and some ford ranger front shafts work great, just need to cut shorter. I have been through a bunch because the old setup had a bad pinion angle after I changed springs. junkyard only charges about $30 so I have 2-3 on hand and leave one uncut in case we need to make one at camp for someone
Nice. I have a '98 Durango sitting in my driveway that I'm going to pull the 5.9/46re for my rig. I'll pull that front shaft and build another spare. I was also thinking about pulling the steering box and seeing if anyone wants it. I know people use it as an upgrade from the YJ box.
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post #55 of 98 Old 08-01-2020, 01:43 PM
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I went all 1350 joints then the whole drivetrain on mine for piece of mind. Called up Tom Woods with my lengths and specs and had my shafts on my doorstep 2 days later.






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post #56 of 98 Old 08-02-2020, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
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I went all 1350 joints then the whole drivetrain on mine for piece of mind. Called up Tom Woods with my lengths and specs and had my shafts on my doorstep 2 days later.
nice, but you missed the part where I'm not spending any money on this. lol

I bought a tom woods shaft 6-8 years ago and I have retubed it, change the joints and the cardan and lengthened and shortened it a bunch of times. I guess the splines are all that's still original
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post #57 of 98 Old 08-02-2020, 09:12 AM
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I'm late, but welcome to the dark side. Lol

The only thing I'll add on the ujoint conversation concerning 1350 joints is to be aware of your driveline angles. The 1350 joints do not offer very much angle (not talking double cardigan). I had to swap to 1410 on both mine to allow full articulation without binding the driveshaft joints.
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post #58 of 98 Old 08-04-2020, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
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finally got done mocking up all the steering parts. I'm pretty happy with the angles but did not finish welding everything until I can start up the motor bleed the system and cycle everything. can't do that til the gas tank goes back in so I guess I'll move on to brakes and shocks.

fun fact. the bracket the ram is mounted to is not some fancy fabrication but is the pointy end of my old too wide front bumper I cut off a couple years ago, fits lit a dream. reduce, re use recycle and most important. free.

I did put in new ball joints and man are they stiff. the internet tells me this is pretty normal until they are on the ground and move a little. Any thoughts on that?
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post #59 of 98 Old 08-05-2020, 02:52 PM
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True story. I have been using walmart cheater reading glasses for a few years and it suddenly dawned on me to put them on when welding. It was a game changer, I kept thinking the lens was dirty. I have always like to get right up close when welding and probably way closer than when reading a book. #slowlearner
Jeff, take a look inside your welding helmet to see if you can slide a lens behind the darkened lens.

My Speedglas helmet has this feature. You can pick up various slide in magnification lens' at your local welding supply shop. With the drop in lens, you eliminate reflection from wearing glasses.
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post #60 of 98 Old 08-05-2020, 03:50 PM Thread Starter
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Jeff, take a look inside your welding helmet to see if you can slide a lens behind the darkened lens.

My Speedglas helmet has this feature. You can pick up various slide in magnification lens' at your local welding supply shop. With the drop in lens, you eliminate reflection from wearing glasses.
good idea. I have always buried my face in close, even when stick welding, and it never occurred to me that the work was even closer than reading. I have to change the outer glass all the time. lol

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