Build. the General Lee, tons, 40s, stretch, etc - Page 5 - JeepForum.com
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post #61 of 354 Old 05-14-2020, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
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Well I ran down the hill this morning to pick up the transmission. They even painted the thing for me! Amazingly the owner of the shop said it actually wasn’t too bad internally despite me beating on the YJ like it owes me money for years and never really touching it other than the occasional fluid change.





Last night my 5 year old said she wanted to work on the Jeep so we went out to the garage and started putting the engine together. Note for anyone assembling a 4.0 down the road, put your timing cover on FIRST! Then do the oil pan. I spent way too much time fighting to get the timing cover on after the pan. Wound up just dropping the pan again. Luckily I wound up with a second oil pan gasket.the motor came with one as did the new pan I bought.

As of right now I have both Brown Dog engine mounts installed on the block, the oil pan, the coil bracket, dipstick tube, valve cover, oil pan, timing cover, Flowkooler Water pump with a new bypass tube, thermostat and Hesco high flow thermostat housing. Oil pump and pick up, power steering bracket and the PSC power steering pump. When we get back from chores later today I am hoping to wrap up most of the component installation.






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post #62 of 354 Old 05-14-2020, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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Well as usual I didn’t get quite as far as I wanted to today. However I did get the engine as assembled as it is going to be before dropping it between the frame rails.

First I put the intake manifold back together. New manifold pressure sensor installed, the new 27 lb and hour 4 hole fuel injectors, new fuel pressure regulator, the BBK 62 MM throttle body, etc.



Then I started bolting more stuff on to the motor. Got the Banks header, I take manifold, new harmonic balancer, freshly painted AC compressor (for my on board air system) Powermaster 170 amp alternator, idler pulleys, fan belt, new temp sensor, etc all bolted on and locked down.










After all that I really did want to bolt the trans back on, but I decided to be on the safe side I’d be better off getting one of my buddies over to help man handle the motor and trans around. So next weekend I have a buddy coming by to help me with all that and getting it between the rails at last.

So in the meantime I went ahead and finished grinding the last rough spots of the frame down smooth and started drilling and installing nutserts in the frame that will be used to secure the fuel and brake lines. I decided it would be easier to do that now before the drivetrain goes in so I got that out of the way real quick.

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post #63 of 354 Old 05-14-2020, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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Wasn’t expecting to see these just yet but today I came home to half of my bumpstop order.



2” diameter 4” stroke

And yes, I am going to run air bumps with leaf springs.

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post #64 of 354 Old 05-14-2020, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, super productive day today and a lot to unpack. So bear with me as this is gonna be a couple of posts.

First thing I did was address the rotted out grille mount while I was waiting for my buddy to come over and help me with the engine install. Piece of 1/8” plate with a fresh body mount hole cut in it burned in over the rotted steel.





Then my buddy showed up and we got to work installing the flexplate and the transmission to the engine.





Then we went ahead and maneuvered it in between the frame rails and got it locked down on the new Brown Dog motor mounts.






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post #65 of 354 Old 05-14-2020, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Once the engine and trans were between the rails I went ahead and supported the tail housing of the transmission with a ratchet strap to the rafter in the garage to give me room to work underneath it to fab up the crossmember.

For the crossmember I used the Ruffstuff universal crossmember mount kit, their giant trick tab, and some 1.5” DOM tube.

The Ultra beefy 1/2” tabs burned into the frame






The crossmember I knocked together. Not painting it yet as I may build off of this a bit to support the Atlas.



Installed. Flat belly shouldn’t be a problem.









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post #66 of 354 Old 05-14-2020, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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Running out of energy I made a final push. I raised the frame up to roughly ride height though I think it will be a bit higher. At least gave me enough clearance to slap the axles under the frame and finish burning in the spring and shackle hangers.

I got some measurements from a couple other YJ owners and set the Motobilt spring hangers up so the center hole of the hangers is at the factory distance from the shackle hanger. This way I can move the spring eye to the outer most hole if I need to to adjust my shackle angles later when it’s under its own weight. Then I went ahead and burned them all in.







And that’s about where I ran out of steam for the day. I think my next goal is going to be to hang the Atlas off the transmission. Kind of need that in for figuring my pinion angles and such.

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post #67 of 354 Old 05-14-2020, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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Well not a very productive weekend this week. I only managed to get 2 hours in the garage. So I went ahead and filled the Atlas, installed the site tube and the studs and went ahead and got it installed.

As usual, working by myself so I had to get a little creative. To get my stud pattern I made a cardboard template of the tailhousing to use to set the bolt pattern for the studs. Got them I stalled in the case and used a dolly to roll it in place under the frame. To lift it into place I decided to wrap a ratchet strap securely around the case. This was my best option as I couldn’t use the studs for the lift or I wouldn’t be able to seat the case. Then I used my now trusty harbor freight come along to the rafters and hoisted it up and swung it into place. Sealed the joint with some red RTV and locked down the studs.







And yes, it’s flat clocked. Kind of thinking I maybe cutting the floor of the tub a bit under the front passenger seat to clear this sucker.

I am still up in the air on whether or not to add another support for it. It feels pretty solid the way it is, but I dunno, that’s still a lot of weight hanging off the *** of the tranny.

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post #68 of 354 Old 05-14-2020, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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Despite the blistering heat today I sucked it up and spent a very productive 4 hours in the garage today. Lots of pics from today so this is going to be another multi post so bear with me.

First order of business and goal today was to get the Atlas support crossmember figured out. After looking at it for a bit I reworked my overly complicated plan. Crossmember is 1.75” 250 wall DOM.
I found out real quick that the TMR support ring is sold long so it can be cut to size. To keep the space for my flat belly I had to seriously cut it down to size.





With that done I used a pair of Ruffstuff mock up bushings to get it mocked in with the crossmember. Once I was happy with where everything sat I burned it all in. I also added some Ruffstuff gussets to the crossmember where it is welded to the frame. Since my antiwrap shackle Mount is also going on this I wanted to be damn sure it was solid. Overkill? Yeah probably.






I should have plenty of clearance for the driveshaft CV






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post #69 of 354 Old 05-14-2020, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
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Once I had the crossmember finished I decided to turn my attention to getting the rear axle set up.

I quickly discovered the Ruffstuff +2 perches I ordered were NOT designed for the monster 4” axle tubes on the Dana 70.



As you can see, not even close to sitting flat on the tubes. So clearly modifications had to be made. I cast around the garage for something round that was about 4”s in diameter and found a small spool of welding wire. Traced it out with a sharpie and cut off the excess with the plasma cutter.





Obviously not a prefect fit, but close enough.



Once I had the perches modified I went and centered up the axle as close as I could get it. The 70 has an offset pinion, so bolted the perches to the springs then measured from the brake bracket flange to the perches to center it up. It’s like an 1/8” off but it’s as close as it’s gonna get. So I then went ahead and set my pinion angle by pointing the pinion at the Atlas output and burned the perches in. I figured the pinion will rotate down a bit when the weight is on it, so I tipped it up just a hair to account for that.






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post #70 of 354 Old 05-14-2020, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
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Last thing I did for the day was start looking at the Antiwrap bar stuff.

Once again I found it necessary to open up the Ruffstuff axle brackets to fit the monster 4” tubes on the 70.



Then I started looking at placement. Looking like my options are pretty limited because of the monster pumpkin. This is the closest I can get to the center.





It’s going to have to do. I don’t want to try to weld the bracket to the diff so this is pretty much where it will end up. I also went ahead and used a piece of angle iron to see where the shackle end needed to go and burned that on to the cross member as well.

Then for ****s and giggles I tossed a tape between the Atlas yoke and the 70. That’s a long *** driveshaft for a YJ!


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post #71 of 354 Old 05-14-2020, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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Monday means back to work on the YJ today. I kind of jumped around a little bit today but mostly focused on continuing the rear suspension work.

My first goal for today was the anti wrap bar. I started with some mock up bushing sleeves and a washer between them to space the axle brackets apart. I unfortunately only recently realized that Ruffstuff only sent me 1 pair of their aluminum mock up bushings when I had ordered two pairs. I’ll have to get In touch with Dan about that. At any rate. Axle bracket mocked up and burned on to the axle tube.



The lower tube Ruffstuff sent in their Hd anti wrap bar kit. Don’t think I’m gonna bend this.



Im glad I ordered an extra foot of tube. I wound up cutting the lower bar at 43”s in length.



Didn’t take many pictures of the in between on fabricating the upper bar and what not, but here is the finished anti wrap bar.








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post #72 of 354 Old 05-14-2020, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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The sharp eyed among you will notice the cut in the frame on the passenger side. I also went ahead and started flush mounting the rear air bumps today. I used the trick of a hole saw too and bottom and the cut off wheel to connect the lines to make my cuts.









This is ideal for the bumps as they are directly over the spring plates. However, they are kind of directly in the way of where I want to also mount the rear shocks. So I was forced to modify the Motobilt shock towers to fit in place around the air bumps.







I only managed to get the drivers side burned in and done. Will finish the passenger side next week.

I am a bit concerned about how much space I am gonna have to fit the shock. I may be forced to run a wheel spacer in the rear for clearance. I’ll have to wait and see.

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post #73 of 354 Old 05-14-2020, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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Back at it today and good progress was made.

First thing I did was finish up the rear passenger side air bump mount and shock mount.



While that was cooling I decided to turn my attention to the front 60. First I went ahead and hacked off the spring perch and old shock mounts.



Once again I am using perches from Ruffstuff. I got their Chevy 60 swap kit and it came with a mini lift block of sorts that is desgined to go on top of the drivers side perch to bring it up level with the cast perch on the passenger side. I decided I didn’t want it just rattling around loose so I decided to just weld it straight to the top of the perch. So I ground a nice bevel in it all the way around and made the two pieces one.





Then I broke out the high lift to help me actually get the 60 slid in place under the springs to start mocking it up.



Once I got it under the springs I discovered a problem. The axle looked noticeably crooked viewed from above. Im not entirely sure how, but somehow I had managed to weld in the drivers side spring mount a full inch further back than the passenger side mount! so there was nothing for it but for me to chop the mount off the frame and move it forward 1” to correct it. Oops.

Once I had that fixed and properly aligned I also noticed the driveshaft angle is gonna be pretty gnarly right now. With the cast in perch all I can really do is shim the thing. So I ordered a set of steel 8* shims to tip the pinion of the front axle up a bit to make it a bit better.

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post #74 of 354 Old 05-14-2020, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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With the front axle now mocked in place and me now having to wait for the shims to come in before I can really weld in the perches or shock mounts I turned my attention to the front bump and shock mounts.

Just like the rear, I frenched the cans into the frame over the spring plates. I once again used the hole saw frame chop method.








Once again, because I elected to French my cans into the frame, I was forced to modify the Motobilt shock towers to work with them as they also need to occupy the same general space. This was easier for the front as I was not also tipping the towers up but using them at the same angle as they are designed to go. So this time I used the same hole saw I used to make my frame holes for the cans and took a half circle or so out of the bottom to clear the cans.






The last thing I did for the day was to go ahead and install the drivers side Sky manufacturing high steer arm. I used a harbor freight step bit that goes up to 3/4” to ream out the lower knuckle hole. Worked beautifully and went thru it in no time. Then I slapped a new plastic kingpin bushing in and bolted on the high steer arm and set the preload (roughly)








I am on vacation this week. So I am hoping to get another full day of work done in the garage tomorrow as well. With any luck I’ll have this as a mostly rolling chassis before my vacation is over.

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post #75 of 354 Old 05-14-2020, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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So today most of my time was spent working on the front end. I finished welding in the passenger side upper front shocks tower then turned my attention to the front axle and steering set up.

First I went ahead and burned in the drivers side spring perch. I needed that in place as well as the u-bolts before I could start messing with the Artec ram mount. I knew they designed this for the Chevy 60, but for people running links. So I knew I would have to make some modifications to accommodate installation and removal of the u-bolts. Once I had made the appropriate notches to clear them, I went ahead and mocked in the mount with the ram. With the mount as high as I could get it I was not happy with the clearance between the clevis bolt and the bottom of the spring. I had about a half an inch on each side.





As you can see, way too close for comfort. So I stared at it for a little bit and decided to compromise and tip the Artec mount down a bit to give me more room beneath the spring. I also went ahead and clearances the lower area of the mount. I used my plasma to cut the arc out a bit larger and smoothed it out with a flap disc. Much better. I know have an inch of clearance on each side.



With that taken care of I went ahead and started burning the mount to the axle. I overheated my welder twice during this process so I still have more welding to do on it. I have to finish the braces and the top side stuff. When I pull the axle out for paint I will flip it over and finish welding the bottom to the tubes.







I also realized I need to get some bolts or studs for the cast spring perch holes as I don’t have anything the correct size in house. I think they are a 5/8” coarse thread but I am not positive. And my thread checker only goes up to 1/2”. Hopefully tomorrow I can finish welding the ram mount up and actually mount up the ram and mock up my steering links.

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