Which brake pads for my 95YJ? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 12 Old 11-19-2019, 03:09 AM Thread Starter
Bazzer
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Which brake pads for my 95YJ?

My YJ does not stop so well with the current brakes. Iím looking for front pads that will lat least lock up at say 30 mph. I canít afford to upgrade the complete system so can anybody suggest what pads to use?
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post #2 of 12 Old 11-19-2019, 03:38 AM
RevScott
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better pads such as semi metallic or ceramic will chew up your rotors much faster...
Next question is have you checked your fluid level? do you have air in your lines? This will cause soft breaks as well...
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post #3 of 12 Old 11-19-2019, 07:54 AM
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parts store commodity ‘better pads’ don’t brake as well either imho. Not as big of a difference as there used to be I don’t think, but still....
The cheap ones don’t last as well but they’re...cheap. I’m running some ceramics right now cuz that was the only thing in stock and I needed them NOW at the time. $45. “Lifetime” warranty from Federated. In the end they may work out since they stop ok and I figure I’ll never need to buy another set? But ‘wear’ may not be included in the warranty.
Previously I’ve run the cheapest thing amazon has to offer; often $10 or so.

[size=ď3Ē]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #4 of 12 Old 11-19-2019, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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My pedal pressure is fine, Iím sure there is no air in the system, Iíll go down to napa and see if I can get some ceramic pads. I really donít mind changing them more frequently if the performance is better. What is the cheapest brake upgrade?


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post #5 of 12 Old 11-19-2019, 11:11 AM
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What is the cheapest brake upgrade?
Back when I was using Facebook a lot a woman stated she had 3 small children and had just moved into a new rental home with a swimming pool. She then proceeded to ask the community group what the cheapest swimming pool fence was. I caught a metric sh**-ton of flack from the single mom-brigade for suggesting that, maybe, just maybe, "cheapest" should not be the primary determining factor for selection of pool safety equipment when it came to protecting the lives of her children.

All that said, here are some areas to think about on your breaking system that may improve the overall performance.

1. Your soft brake lines are probably stock lines. They are probably about a year older than your Jeep and, over time, become softer and softer. This can lead to expansion in the soft lines and rob the braking system of some hydraulic pressure in the caliper. Brake lines come in many flavors, but a stock set of soft brake lines should be within most budgets. If you are replacing the front soft lines with new, you will need to add fluid to replace the fluid you will lose. This leads us to area #2.

2. Brake fluid collects moisture and contaminates over time. It gets super heated and breaks down in terms of it's efficiency. Most vehicles have fluid added over their lifetime, but seldom have the fluid changed out completely. This leads to fluid that is passable, but not optimal. If you replace the front soft brake lines, why not spend the extra $10 and get a bottle of fresh DOT3 brake fluid and clear out all that old fluid for fresh? It may be a 3% improvement in braking feel and stopping power, but a 3% increase for $10 and about 30 minutes of work is good return on investment.

3. Have your front rotors professionally turned. You can save about 80% of the cost of new disk brake rotors by simply having your existing rotors turned by a professional shop. They will check to ensure the rotors are thick enough to be machined down - ensuring you are not driving on out of spec rotors - and if they can be turned, you get back a freshly machined surface that nearly as perfect (if not more so) as a new set of rotors. Where I live, a local brake shop charges $12 per rotor to turn them. Compare that to $40 per rotor new, and you are saving a ton of money for a very good result.

4. Adjust your rear drums. I won't go into much detail here, but it is fairly easy to properly adjust your rear drums on a YJ - consult your manual. It is also FREE to do. About 30% of your braking comes from the rear drums on your YJ. If your rear drums are out of adjustment, that will significantly diminish your stopping power. I would check them/adjust them to factory manual specs.

There are a few low-cost items you can do to help gain some incremental increases in your overall braking effectiveness.

I hope this helps.
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post #6 of 12 Old 11-19-2019, 11:26 AM
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What he said. ^^^^^ One of my hard lines rusted through and since the whole system is the same ago I changed everything; hard lines, soft lines, calipers, master and wheel cylinders and just using all stock parts the braking power increased noticeably and it all cost only about $200-$250 for everything.


I later changed to EBC pads, which are better and my friend put in black magic which are better still.

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post #7 of 12 Old 11-19-2019, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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Lucca and all others thanks for all the replies, they are all very helpful and I will replace the fluid and rubber lines. Here in Northern California ( I live as far away from San Francisco as possible) we donít get any rust because the humidity is so low. jbolty, what are black magic pads and where do I find them?
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post #8 of 12 Old 11-19-2019, 12:41 PM
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Lucca and .. jbolty, what are black magic pads and where do I find them?
Barry


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https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.co...?categoryId=-1

not exactly what I would call the least expensive upgrade to a stock system, but you asked. ..
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post #9 of 12 Old 11-19-2019, 01:49 PM
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https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.co...?categoryId=-1

not exactly what I would call the least expensive upgrade to a stock system, but you asked. ..
Well worth the $$$
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post #10 of 12 Old 11-20-2019, 07:25 PM
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A lot of great ideas and suggestions posted here all ready.

I am a Master mechanic and have been for about 40 years. I diagnose brake pedal issues all the time. There are some things that are overlooked on the forums that are commonly causes of poor brakes. The rubber brake lines are often mentioned and rarely the problem. With that being said, I would NEVER trust old rubber brake hoses but they are probably not really the cure if they don't leak or have visual cracks. They still are a very important maintenance item on an older vehicle.

Whatever type of pins your calipers slide on need to move freely. They also cannot have a lot of wear to where they can cock and bind during apply. They have to be tight but yet free.

Your brake pads have to be able to slide freely in the mounts that hold them. I often times remove caliper brackets which house the brake pads and need a hammer to get the pads out. This is a no go. It is from years of corrosion and crud build up that takes up the clearance that lets the pads slide freely.

The caliper pistons have to move freely. Both compression and extension.

The rotors do have to be true. If you have excessive rotor lateral runout, driving down the road normally will cause your caliper pistons to back in further because the runout pushes the pistons in further than normal. This requires more pedal travel before the brakes apply. The rotor surfaces also have to be clean and shiny and all in contact. Rotors with big rust rings, grooves, etc. do not provide maximum friction surface area.

Cheap brake pads or old brake pads can have clearance between the shims on the backside of the pads through corrosion or just poor design. This clearance really makes for a squishy pedal. Bottom line. The shims have to compress first when the pedal is applied which takes up good pedal travel before they really apply the pads.

Brake pads that are very tapered in the wear pattern. Like lots more wear on top than on the bottom part of the pads. Or even inside to out. They do not sit flush to the caliper pistons and apply less than optimal force.



Rear drum brake adjustment has to be correct.

Fluid type and condition. DEEP subject. Brake fluid can boil. It gets very hot. Brake fluid is hydroscopic or in laymans terms it attract water. There are other forms of contamination that over time can make it not withstand the temps it needs to. You need good fresh fluid.

Quote:
better pads such as semi metallic or ceramic will chew up your rotors much faster...
Nope. The rotor wear is accelerated as compared to organic asbestos cancer causing outlawed not supposed to be legally available brake pads on the market today. But those pads caused the issue the OP is describing. Maybe?? It is called brake fade in some instances.

Yes. Brembo brakes destroy rotors. But that is the only unacceptable and accelerated brake pad destroying rotor condition I can think of in the world today.

I do not care for semi metallic pads. They were an improvement back in the day. But that was the day when your wheels all turned gold because of the rust formation on them and obnoxious brake squeels were a normal part of life.

Ceramic pads have very good performance and little compromise IMO. They have very good life.

In the end you could have a master cylinder that has internal leaks and does not build pressure really well IN BOTH CHAMBERS. It is less likely than other ideas. You could also have a brake booster that just does not provide the assist you need due to internal failure or poor vacuum to it be it a check valve, vacuum leak, or downright poor engine performance and vacuum. That for sure will give you a very firm pedal with poor braking.
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If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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post #11 of 12 Old 11-21-2019, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, I know see I might have a problem with any of the braking components. My main symptom is I can lock the fronts at 30mph and I think I should be able to. So the question is what is the best way to test the components? I really donít want to drop money in changing serviceable parts. I think that driving for a few yards with the vacuum line to the servo disconnected will give me a good idea if itís functioning.
Thanks for you help.
Barry


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post #12 of 12 Old 11-21-2019, 07:50 PM
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Lets start here. Shut your engine off. Pump the brakes a few times to eliminate all vacuum in the brake booster. Start the engine. The pedal feel should be much easier and the pedal should travel a good amount more. Like at least an inch or so. It should happen almost instantly.

This can be an indicator of good or bad booster function.

Your idea of disconnecting vacuum and driving is a great idea. I shows that you have mechanical aptitude, read and process the posts and follow advice well, and even think outside the box.

Keep us posted.

If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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