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post #196 of 203 Old 11-01-2013, 09:57 PM
Luuca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrantYJ
I'll run down to the Jeep and get them...
There is a printable diagram on how/where to cut somewhere in the YJ tech form.

I'm not 100% on the psi. I think mine is just under 38 when running normally. Maybe mines higher.

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post #197 of 203 Old 11-01-2013, 10:08 PM
Luuca
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The step by step is in the YJ section FAQs under Fuel access panel.

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post #198 of 203 Old 11-01-2013, 10:12 PM
GrantYJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lander2312 View Post
Grant....I want those dimensions for the access hole...lol
My tub has Line X, so from the outside edge of the body (measuring from the panel that runs under the tailgate) you'll need to make cuts parallel to the back of the Jeep at 6 1/2" and 15" (**see next paragraph**). I cut my door 12" wide (measure 6" each way from the center of the seat belt hole for the rear passengers). You could get away as narrow as 8"; however, the fuel lines and wires would be more difficult to deal with the next time you need access to the tank (but still much easier than dropping it).

**
If you still use your rear seat, I'd change the 15" dimension to 14 1/2". At 15", part of the structural reinforcement under the bed (to which the seat belts bolt) gets cut away. I ended up welding some square tube in for piece of mind (my oldest son drives my Jeep a lot and frequently has friends in the back).
**

I hinged my panel but you could also just as easily get four pieces of metal (1" X 2" X 1/8" or similar) drill the tabs 1/2" from one end at the centerline, drill holes in the tub 1/2" from the edge of the hole at four nice spots (easy enough to decide where after it's cut out) and bolt the tabs in place. Then drill clear holes in corresponding locations on your new access panel and pilot holes in the tabs and fasten it down with either sheet metal screws or self tappers.


If you want a hinged panel, follow the same steps for the two tabs as hold downs and do whatever you need to for the hinge/hinges you buy. I used some aluminum "cut to fit" piano hinge that I had laying around.

That's pretty much it. Just mark it well, take your time, and make sure that the fuel tank is not under there when you cut it (otherwise your previous visions of lighting it up might just come true). On mine the Line X was more of a PITA than cutting the metal. That is nasty stuff.

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post #199 of 203 Old 11-01-2013, 10:14 PM
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https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/g...6/#post3290706

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post #200 of 203 Old 11-01-2013, 10:14 PM
GrantYJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luuca View Post
The step by step is in the YJ section FAQs under Fuel access panel.

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I wish I'd been on the forum back when I did this the first time. I didn't know that it was covered in there. Thanks Luuca.

“The test of the machine is the satisfaction it gives you. There isn't any other test. If the machine produces tranquility it's right. If it disturbs you it's wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed.” ― Robert M. Pirsig, Zen And The Art Of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values
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post #201 of 203 Old 11-01-2013, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
lander2312
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Thanks guys...

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post #202 of 203 Old 11-02-2013, 07:04 AM
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Been following since the beginning. Congrats on the fix. That is slightly irritating that you had to use a shorter pump. Did you have to ziptye it to the support? Ah well, at least it works!!
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post #203 of 203 Old 11-02-2013, 09:22 AM Thread Starter
lander2312
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No the sending unit can be adjusted by sliding the top down and re-securing it. The new Bosch pump eben said in the instructions that it might look different but it is designed to out preform the old pump ( I lol that since the old pump was broke so it wouldn't be hard to out preform.) I will say it is quiet....super quiet.

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