Badlands winch rebuild - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 47 Old 03-19-2020, 07:21 AM
Waternut
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I feel like the lesson here is to either buy a $15 winch cover or stop driving through salt water.



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post #32 of 47 Old 03-19-2020, 07:48 AM Thread Starter
jhrebs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waternut View Post
I feel like the lesson here is to either buy a $15 winch cover or stop driving through salt water.

I’ve never driven through salt water. Yes a cover. And in the future make it 100% waterproof


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post #33 of 47 Old 03-19-2020, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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Well I tried the quadratec winch motor. The motor housing is about 1/8” too small to fit onto the mounting plate of the HF winch. So I tried using the QT motor and mounting plate the the spring loaded support rods are on a bit on an angle. Probably because my winch is so old. I would bet a lot that this would fit a new HF winch. Well. Back to the drawing board.


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post #34 of 47 Old 03-20-2020, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Awesome View Post
People say that but forget that most of the cheaper winches are made in the same factory and just rebranded. Even the Warn winches.
according to warn, their VR line is made by a chinese producer that only makes their line. It is a foreign made version of their M line with some cost cutting measures to make it competitive with the cheaper entries.

I had a warn VR10000, smittybilt 9500 and badlands 12k last year to install on my YJ and 100 series landcruiser, both with ARB bumpers. The warn had no components compatible with the others and after taking them apart to clock the housings, the warn seems better sealed and higher quality.

I put the warn in the ARB bumper on my YJ as the cutout was designed for a warn to drop down into the winch cradle. The other two wouldn't fit. If was going to use the winch more frequently, I'd buy the US produced M8000. I do think the badlands or smittybilt are okay if waterproofed. The smittybilt is on my land cruiser and i sold the badlands.

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post #35 of 47 Old 03-20-2020, 01:59 PM
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^ Good to know, thanks.

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post #36 of 47 Old 03-31-2020, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
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Just wanted to give everyone an update. I ordered a Qtec winch motor and housing. This also comes with the mounting plate. As you can see in the picture you cannot use the Qtec mounting plate.
So I had to use the Qtec motor with the HF mounting plate. This was a little difficult because the lip on the HF plate is about 1/16” larger the Qtec motor housing. Simple enough though. Took it to a buddy who milled a lip into the Qtec motor housing. Everything bolts up perfectly. I sealed every surface and screw with some silicone. Before installation I temporarily wired up the Qtec motor with the HF control box and everything works fine. I will have more information once everything if together



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post #37 of 47 Old 03-31-2020, 03:35 PM
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Appreciate the update.

Bill
Recently discovered I am bi-flexual.
1988 Wrangler,4.2L I-6, Howell EFI JP-1,CRT HEI Ign,AX15 ext slave conversion, Zone 2" lift + 1" BL + 1/2" booms, BFG 31 x 10.5, Bestop.
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post #38 of 47 Old 03-31-2020, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
jhrebs
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I firmly believe that at it would’ve been an exact match had my HF winch been newer.

What’s that tell you?!?!


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post #39 of 47 Old 03-31-2020, 07:32 PM
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I saw HF has a premium grade 12k now. Faster. Haven't seen legit reviews yet.

Bill
Recently discovered I am bi-flexual.
1988 Wrangler,4.2L I-6, Howell EFI JP-1,CRT HEI Ign,AX15 ext slave conversion, Zone 2" lift + 1" BL + 1/2" booms, BFG 31 x 10.5, Bestop.
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post #40 of 47 Old 04-01-2020, 09:37 AM
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Do y'all think it would be a pain to switch the wire cable out for synthetic? Since I am not the one that put my winch on originally I am a little nervous as to how it's been used in the past.
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post #41 of 47 Old 04-01-2020, 11:52 AM
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You should get a new roller fairlead to go along with that new synthetic. Any cable burrs will eat the dyneema up.

Off-brand dyneema winch rope is around for less than a bill and someone on /f12 posted nice instructions on finishing, splicing, and terminating braid a while back.

[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #42 of 47 Old 04-01-2020, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
jhrebs
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Don’t you use a hawse fairlead or something like that for synthetic?


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post #43 of 47 Old 04-01-2020, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhrebs View Post
Don’t you use a hawse fairlead or something like that fer synthetick
No. You ‘can’ but a roller is much better.

While it is a common belief that synthetic “requires” a hawse, in reality the roller is better for longevity of the rope and performance of the pull.
I don’t know where the misnomer started life.

[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #44 of 47 Old 04-01-2020, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
jhrebs
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So I have a dumb question. Does it matter if your winch cable feeds to the top or the bottom of the drum?


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post #45 of 47 Old 04-01-2020, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhrebs View Post
So I have a dumb question. Does it matter if your winch cable feeds to the top or the bottom of the drum?
I don't know if it matters, but your fairlead mount is going to dictate that for you. Unless you build something. Some use a bottom feed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jhrebs View Post
Don’t you use a hawse fairlead or something like that for synthetic?
There are roller fairleads specific for poly rope. But if you use a cable fairlead, the poly rope likes to snag between rollers in the corners. Aluminum hawse are just simpler.

Bill
Recently discovered I am bi-flexual.
1988 Wrangler,4.2L I-6, Howell EFI JP-1,CRT HEI Ign,AX15 ext slave conversion, Zone 2" lift + 1" BL + 1/2" booms, BFG 31 x 10.5, Bestop.
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