Arizona + A/C + Highway= Overheating - Page 5 - JeepForum.com
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post #61 of 142 Old 07-22-2019, 08:40 AM
jsawduste
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In your case the application is st the upper end of the cooling spectrum. At this point talking to somebody like Ron Davis or that other shop that starts with the letter “ C” duh on me will be you best bet. It’s NOT Champion

Try CSF, they have a lot of involvement with Ultra4

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post #62 of 142 Old 07-22-2019, 10:48 AM
Que89YJ
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Good to see you chime in John!

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post #63 of 142 Old 07-22-2019, 11:42 AM
jsawduste
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Thank Darryl.
Thought you had be kidnapped, taken away and held for ransom somewhere.

Seems CBM has changed into a different name. Nonetheless a call to Ron Davis wouldn’t hurt.
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post #64 of 142 Old 07-22-2019, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
Louie4
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Thanks John. I found that older brass OEM one locally, two row. I called a shop about rodding it out and they said no problem. I am going to see how that goes. If that doesnt pan out, CSF is the next step.

By the way, my D44 is coming along.


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post #65 of 142 Old 07-23-2019, 07:18 PM
jsawduste
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Good deal Louie.

I’ve had good luck with the CSF brass units. Hopefully you will also.

Wondered how thst 44 was coming along. Glad to see your making progress. Did you ever find the F250 caliper brackets ?
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post #66 of 142 Old 07-25-2019, 09:05 AM
Mechman71
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Just for gits and shiggles, when you flushed your block, did you backflush it? Over the years I've had my share of broken tstats come out of heads. Cooling sure did improve, too. Just sayin'...

'89 YJ "Night Eagle" 4.2 5spd, Spinnaker blue/grey, hard top and doors, mostly stock and RUST FREE!!
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post #67 of 142 Old 07-25-2019, 07:39 PM
Azhunter1
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When flushing the block there are two screws that go into the water jackets you should pull them to to help get some funk out.
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post #68 of 142 Old 07-26-2019, 07:20 PM Thread Starter
Louie4
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Put the cleaned out brass radiator in. Its better than the other one I had mainly because its OEM with all the holes lining up. But unfortunately it did not resolve my problem.

Still creeping up to 220-230 going at highway speeds without AC. If that was on it would push it too much.

My next step is to take this thing off and see if it makes a difference.

Yes my fan clutch works fine but it shouldnt even play a factor at highway speeds.


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post #69 of 142 Old 07-26-2019, 08:00 PM
87TPIYJ
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Im sure that will make a big difference. Have you thought about cutting the front cross member and recessing the winch down between the frame rails?

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post #70 of 142 Old 07-26-2019, 09:25 PM
Azhunter1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87TPIYJ View Post
Im sure that will make a big difference. Have you thought about cutting the front cross member and recessing the winch down between the frame rails?
Ive wondered about this, have you seen it done? How do they tie the frame rails together after its cut?
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post #71 of 142 Old 07-26-2019, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
Louie4
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I was thinking about doing that. I would probably need to cut the tube and build a box with gussets.




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post #72 of 142 Old 07-27-2019, 12:26 PM
fishadventure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Louie4 View Post
I was thinking about doing that. I would probably need to cut the tube and build a box alk
Ya.
That crossmember area is a critical structure for sure!

I hope I can find my brass 2-core. It leaked bad when removed but I’m pretty sure I kept it for future.
I have no winch (yet) and no AC but I towed <1000# 80 miles today at about 85* air temps. That’s the first time My Jeep Version 2 CYJ has seen hot conditions with a trailer at highway speeds and it crept to 230-ish sustained. Plastic/aluminum one-row isn’t doing the job. Everything else is normal.

[size=3]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #73 of 142 Old 07-27-2019, 06:11 PM
dwtaylorpdx
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So,, I went through 4 mopar thermostats in 4 years. they
don't totally fail they just quit opening all the way.
Work fine till you get to above 90 degrees.

I'm running a 5 core all aluminum radiator I got out of China/California. off EBAY..
Mine handles 110 degree heat at freeway speeds with the AC running. My bumper
and driving lights allow very little forward access for air to the radiator..
My engine temp runs dead on 190 with a 185 thermostat. Stock fan. My YJ
gets slightly better mileage with the 195 thermostat ,, but I haven't found a
good thermostat at that heat range that fits and lasts..
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post #74 of 142 Old 07-27-2019, 07:32 PM
Mechman71
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It sounds like you may have a deeper issue then, given what you've been through so far. Have you run any checks for a leaking head gasket or crack in the water jacket? I'd start with pulling the spark plugs and looking at the electrodes. If one of them is clean and shiny (or tinted green even), you're getting coolant into that cylinder and either need a head gasket or a head. Pop the oil cap too and check underneath, look for emulsified oil (mayonnaise). Have you checked your timing and looked for vacuum leaks? Checked to see if your engine is running too lean?


If your engine checks out as healthy and your water pump's impeller hasn't shed any fins, I'd probably try backflushing the block again - remove the t-stat, plug a garden hose into the lower rad hose (removed from the rad of course) and let it run out the t-stat hole for several hours. I'd seriously consider pulling the water pump and backflushing again, too. Even with a mechanical fan, your OE cooling system in good shape should be able to handle the outside air temps. The factory put them through their paces during the desert testing, and plenty of other people have driven YJs in Arizona without problems. Your issue may not be related to the ambient temps at all. In fact, that's the way I'm leaning. You'd be overheating in Canada, too.



If you want to test your t-stat and see if it's opening all the way, all you need to do is boil it on the stove and use a candy thermometer (laser thermometer works too) to monitor the temp. Keep checking it as it approaches boiling and see if it opens fully.

'89 YJ "Night Eagle" 4.2 5spd, Spinnaker blue/grey, hard top and doors, mostly stock and RUST FREE!!
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post #75 of 142 Old 07-28-2019, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
Louie4
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Everything is pretty much new or OEM that works well. I suppose I could flush the block and see what happens. I don't have any crud in the coolant though. But I guess that doesn't mean anything.

I still plan to pull the bumper and winch to see how it does. My guess is the factory didn't put anything in front of the YJ grilles, so maybe that is the issue.

Let's just say that is the problem, I'm sure there are others that run a large winch without the same issues. I guess I'll cross that bridge if I get there.

Maybe I shoudl check the head gasket.

Lou

I have a jeep...and it is modified...I win.

YJOTM July 2012
YJOTM February 2014


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