Arizona + A/C + Highway= Overheating - Page 41 - JeepForum.com
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post #601 of 641 Old 04-23-2021, 05:48 PM
Boojo35
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Yep. I did not even have a Wrangler when the kids were around. You are ahead of the curve. There is no shame in not having time.


If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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post #602 of 641 Old 04-23-2021, 06:47 PM
Chrisnvegas
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Even if you build the engine, you are having a machine shop do the crank, block... ect.
If you have a shop you trust, fine. I don't. And if there's a problem, even if you know the shop, good luck getting them to eat the cost of your block or crank. It's still right out of Bill's own wallet. Bill is cheap, he gives nothing away.

I recently had a shop bore the cylinder on a YZ250. The new piston didn't fit! The cylinder was out of round! Of course they denied f***ing it up and I ended up buying a new cylinder.

It's hit or miss getting good work done these days. So I opt for a written warranty so I can sue them. (I've sued 3 people so far, and won every time)
I trust... my cat. That's it. Although Bulletproof Diesel in Mesa AZ has done great work on my truck.
I also like crate motors. I'm waiting to drop a new 7.3 Godzilla into something.
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post #603 of 641 Old 04-24-2021, 05:23 AM
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I’m with Chris and shaggy on boojo

The right choice is the one that works good for you. I’d lean way towards rebuilding in my head, but right now? I’d seriously have to look at my time reality and buy a crate and pay the shop my 20/21 year old jeep club friend works for to have Jesse put it in.
I’d have one question: does anyplace have a decent crate 4.7 stroker?

[size=3]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #604 of 641 Old 04-24-2021, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
I’d have one question: does anyplace have a decent crate 4.7 stroker?
A few places will do them and have good reputations but it about triples the price of a long block.
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post #605 of 641 Old 04-30-2021, 07:28 AM
AZdEvilYJ
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The Gladiator can handle it! I think, haha.

So here is the reality of my situation. I can spend my lunch hours, while I'm working at home, and pull the motor over the span of a week or two. I don't have any time on the weekends or evenings to myself so I can't spend much time pulling it apart and going back and forth to the machine shops and loading/unloading. So maybe a reman is a decent option if I can just swap parts from one engine to the other.

If I had time to myself I would definitely do it all but if I pull the motor and do that it will take forever.

Motor takes about 3hrs to pull. Very very easy. I have a hoist you can borrow if youd like


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post #606 of 641 Old 04-30-2021, 11:59 AM
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Id have one question: does anyplace have a decent crate 4.7 stroker?
Golen Engine
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post #607 of 641 Old 04-30-2021, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
I’d have one question: does anyplace have a decent crate 4.7 stroker?
Golen Engine
Mine has been great
@Boojo35

We're gonna have to arrange a time to have one of these delivered to your place and installed.

Of course I'll pay you with a VERY strong running 2.5L. (The same one that @Chrisnvegas mentioned up there that was rebuilt not many KMs ago!), some Canadian beer, jerky and maple syrup

~YJOTM MAY '16, JULY '19~


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post #608 of 641 Old 04-30-2021, 04:45 PM
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@Boojo35

We're gonna have to arrange a time to have one of these delivered to your place and installed.

Of course I'll pay you with a VERY strong running 2.5L. (The same one that @Chrisnvegas mentioned up there that was rebuilt not many KMs ago!), some Canadian beer, jerky and maple syrup
Hmmmm. I saw the part about the Canadian Beer, jerky and maple syrup and said hell yea..... The I re read and noticed the part about the strong running 2.5....... Bonus.

If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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post #609 of 641 Old 05-01-2021, 03:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
I’d have one question: does anyplace have a decent crate 4.7 stroker?
Golen Engine
Mine has been great
What’s yours need for gasoline?

[size=3]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #610 of 641 Old 05-10-2021, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
Louie4
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Motor takes about 3hrs to pull. Very very easy. I have a hoist you can borrow if youd like


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Thanks Greg. I may take you up on that. I need to pick up an engine stand from HF first. I'll let you know. I have pulled that motor, maybe 2-3 times, but it's been maybe 10-15 years since I did.

The last time I pulled the cylinder head I was in high school or just getting into college back in the early 2000's.

It might be time to take care of the motor a little...
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Lou

I have a jeep...and it is modified...I win.

YJOTM July 2012
YJOTM February 2014


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post #611 of 641 Old 08-08-2021, 09:19 AM Thread Starter
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So after driving the Jeep as my daily for the last couple weeks, I have confirmed I will pull the motor after Moab and get a refurbished one to swap in. I will continue in my build thread from here.


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Lou

I have a jeep...and it is modified...I win.

YJOTM July 2012
YJOTM February 2014


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post #612 of 641 Old 08-08-2021, 02:49 PM
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Without back tracking the thread... did you ever try an external gauge to make sure the dash is reading accurate?

Of course a new motor and the YJ will be good for a lifetime or as long as you want to keep it. If Greg helps ya out, be prepared... could cost you a ton in PBR!
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post #613 of 641 Old 08-08-2021, 03:11 PM
Boojo35
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Originally Posted by RockWoRM View Post
Without back tracking the thread... did you ever try an external gauge to make sure the dash is reading accurate?

Of course a new motor and the YJ will be good for a lifetime or as long as you want to keep it. If Greg helps ya out, be prepared... could cost you a ton in PBR!
In all reality, PBR is as cheap as it gets, at least in my part of the country. Like as in 3 bucks a pitcher in the same place that a GOOD mug of beer is 6 bucks. So as far as I am concerned. PBR is almost free labor. Caveat: as long as the PBR does not cause bad judgement, decisions, and poor work due to loss of motor skills.
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If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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post #614 of 641 Old 08-08-2021, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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I can handle loads or PBR. Ill have to borrow Gregs engine hoist no doubt.

So I actually tried purchasing the gauge from Q-Tec but my order was hung up or I had to update a payment method because I had a credit from a YJOTM. Anyway I cancelled. But one thing i did do was buy an OEM temp sensor. I doubt my gauge is precise but I feel its accurate. Just driving it and knowing how hot it feels its overheating. Even if the gauge is not accurate, the trend was a temperature that was trending up and not leveling off.

Lou

I have a jeep...and it is modified...I win.

YJOTM July 2012
YJOTM February 2014


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post #615 of 641 Old 08-09-2021, 07:56 AM
Boojo35
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daisyheater-core.jpg

Louie. I don't think that I have shared this with you. This is a picture of my heater core that I cut open out of my 87 that I replaced last year. A little back story. I bought this Jeep from @Chrisnvegas where he had it sit for a few years in his garage. He never drove it and only briefly ever had it started. The owner before him had filled it with water. The Jeep was originally purchased in SoCal then moved to Arizona and then to Vegas. My understanding is that it is kinda common for people to not keep their coolant as you call it (we refer to it as anti freeze more commonly in the north) in the most pristine condition due to the lack of freezing as a hazard. Anyways. I ran a Ford flush chemical through it and literally a couple hundred gallons of water at least. I flushed and back flushed from every hose connection possible. Into the heater hoses, the nipple at the intake manifold, etc. I filled drove and drained it several times after that. So after a couple of thousand miles or so my heater output was chilly, especially at an idle. As you can see there is a ton of sediment in the core even after all the flushing. I would not be surprised if there are corners and crevices in the block that are still full of crap and maybe the radiator also.

I had very similar symptoms to yours at times. Temp would climb on the highway and only on hot days. If I got off the highway it would cool right back down. It has not done it in a while but then again I have not driven it at 70 on a hot day in quite a while. I believe that a sediment problem is still likely, I have a freeze plug that has a little weep to it and possibly have a small crack in the head gasket. A rear main seal is easiest to replace on an engine stand with the engine upside down and the engine or trans needs to come out to do the torque converter seal and the very rearward freeze plug so that is my plan of attack much like yours.

If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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