Another Temp Sending Unit Question - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 9 Old 09-14-2020, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
Overlander324
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Another Temp Sending Unit Question

I have a 95 2.5L YJ. I just bought a re manufactured engine. The new long block came with a plug in the hole where the sending unit goes (gauge not ECM sending unit). The old sending unit DOES NOT FIT in the new block. It's too big, fat wise not length. Is there a year that uses a smaller sending unit? I have been to the parts stores, searched this forum (LOTS of temp sending unit stuff, but not what I'm looking for). THANKS!!!!!!!

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post #2 of 9 Old 09-15-2020, 04:32 AM
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Are you certain the lip of your valve cover is not blocking it from seating in?

I know I have to take off my valve cover to change, remove or install the gauge sending unit
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post #3 of 9 Old 09-15-2020, 04:58 AM
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There’s basically two temp sending units for the block/gauge. I can’t remember the year split.
My recollection is that amy old ‘standard’ one-wire temp sender that Chevy/GM/AMC/Dodge used like back to the 1970s is probably the one you need. It is 1/8” npt thread. I got mine on amazon; either AC Delco or Standard Motor Products brand. I haven’t bought one for a while. A GOOD parts store should be able to get you what you need off the shelf for $10-$25 depending on their opinion of the price of gold these days.
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post #4 of 9 Old 09-15-2020, 05:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander324 View Post
I have a 95 2.5L YJ. I just bought a re manufactured engine. The new long block came with a plug in the hole where the sending unit goes (gauge not ECM sending unit). The old sending unit DOES NOT FIT in the new block. It's too big, fat wise not length. Is there a year that uses a smaller sending unit? I have been to the parts stores, searched this forum (LOTS of temp sending unit stuff, but not what I'm looking for). THANKS!!!!!!!
I can tell you stock is 1\8th NPT threads. Its a one wire sensor and I beleive all YJ’s 91 and up used that one. Is there a bushing on your old one. SOmeone before you could have stripped it and retapped it and installed a bushing.
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post #5 of 9 Old 09-15-2020, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
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No bushing. Seems like the new block just has a smaller hole. If there was no smaller one ever used in the 2.5, I wonder if I can machine this one down and thread it??? The valve cover was off when I tried to put it in and the block was on an engine stand. Both parts stores in town only had identical parts (also had the sensor for the thermostat housing, obviously not what I'm looking for). I would post a picture of the sensor attempting to go into the hole but I filled it with coolant to move the Jeep. Maybe I'll still try and take a picture???
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Last edited by Overlander324; 09-15-2020 at 06:08 PM. Reason: Add to comment
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post #6 of 9 Old 09-15-2020, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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Update: I wanted to take a picture of the sensor NOT fitting into the hole. So I pulled the plug and sure enough it didn't fit. But the plug measured the same thickness as the sensor with calipers. So I figured there was a burr in the threads deeper in the hole..... bla bla bla, it fits. But now my gauge shoots up to the red fairly quickly. I shut it down and it doesn't seem to be that hot??? No boiling over, cap was touchable, no coolant going into the overflow.

Is it possible to run those to deep so they hit the wall of the water jacket and give a different reading??
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post #7 of 9 Old 09-15-2020, 09:19 PM
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maybe measure the depth?

grind some of the tip of the probe?
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post #8 of 9 Old 09-16-2020, 04:43 AM
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That doesn’t appear as expected although I think the later years used that connector. I’m pretty sure all my partouts had the one I pictured below.
Attached is the appearance I would expect - longer probe. The wrong sender ohm range will give a bad reading. The sender is merely a variable resistance “ground” for the gauge.
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[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #9 of 9 Old 09-16-2020, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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Well... I ran the heater to see if it was in fact getting hot, and it was. Temp gauge is working. Meanwhile the radiator didn't get hot. No circulation. I pulled the brand new thermostat, and it ran at 110 degrees (ish). Which means I ran the motor for 15 minutes with a stuck thermostat!!!! Hopefully I didn't destroy a re manufactured motor! I have no misses, oil is clean, coolant is clean, no smoke from the tail pipe.... HOPEFULLY there is no damage, though it's hard to imagine.

THANKS! for all the advise and support. I really appreciate it.
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