'95 stalling - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 10-20-2017, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
BadWolf1925
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1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
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'95 stalling

About a month or so ago my 95 automatic 6 cylinder jeep stalled at a stop light. After waiting a while I was able to get it started and drive across town and made it home. After that it was fine. Even made it on a long trip (2 hours there and two hours home) with no problems. Yesterday it stalled at two stop signs. I made it home, but now Iím worried. Since Iíve had it, Iíve worked on it a lot so Iím just not sure what else to look at.
List of what I have done: New spark plugs and wires, new cap new rotor, new IAC valve/sensor, new TPS sensor, checked all vacuum lines- tested- all fine no leaks, tested fuel pressure at the rail- it was good, replaced the fuel filter, replaced the CCV valve, and Iíve removed and currently cleaning the throttle body right now. The other day I found an inch long crack in the exhaust pipe where two exhaust pipes go into one pipe before the Cadillac converter, and I patched it. I plan on replacing the whole unit, but I cant do anything until the piece arrives in the mail. I reset the computer today and it seemed to be running fine but when I got to my destination and pulled into a parking spot, it stalled. I made it home after that, but it hiccupped or revíed while driving at about 40 mph on the way back home.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

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post #2 of 11 Old 10-20-2017, 03:16 PM
mike134
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The regular tuneup would have been my first step as well. Did you use copper spark plugs or platinum/irridium? The jeep likes the cheap champion copper.

Next bet: I'd suggest changing the ignition coil.

Your symptoms sound like ignition coil or crankshaft position sensor (CPS) but CPS usually won't stutter, it 'll just die and you have to wait a few seconds to start it again.

A failing ignition coil can cause the same symptoms when it is hot in the engine bay but sometimes you can power through it, especially if you are speeding up (increasing cooling air). They run about $25 so its not a bad gamble.

Just to be sure: While you're at autzone buying a coil, I would recommend buying a new fuel filter ($7, change this every two years) and borrowing the fuel pressure gauge. it is free if you leave a deposit. Test your fuel pressure at idle, then at idle with the vacuum hose disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator. Then turn the engine off and look at the pressure after 20 minutes. Write down all of these numbers and report back here.
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post #3 of 11 Old 10-20-2017, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
BadWolf1925
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Iíve already replaced the fuel filter. And Iíve tested fuel pressure, and it reported back normal.
I tested the ignition coil, and its reporting back the correct ohms. Thank you though, it was a good suggestion.

Iím still at a loss.
Everyone says to replace the fuel pump, but a lot of people report no difference after theyíve done so. Iím just trying to figure out what else it could be. If it was the fuel pump, why would it run so well one minute and not the next day? Is there a way to test the fuel pump without dropping the (plastic) gas tank?
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post #4 of 11 Old 10-20-2017, 04:53 PM
mike134
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Do you have any check engine codes flashing when you turn the key OFF/ON/OFF/ON/OFF/ON?

If your fuel pressure is good, then I'd stick with the pump you have. But if you DO replace it, only buy Bosch. The cheap pumps don't usually last very long. There is also a mod writeup on the forum about installing an access door in the cargo area so you don't have to drop the tank. I think this is well worth the effort.

The coils can test correct ohms when cold, but when they are on the verge of failing, the heat soak from standing still can often send them over the edge.

I will say that if it is the pump or coil, both of these will get worse very quickly until they no longer function.

Intermittent failures are the worst!
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post #5 of 11 Old 10-20-2017, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
BadWolf1925
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Unfortunately there are no flashing codes.
I feel better about the fuel pressure and fuel pump having someone else think the same way I have been.
Yes, my plan was to defiantly cut into the trunk/tub and do that mod. But I donít want to if I donít have to.
Hmmm maybe Iíll replace the ignition coil just in case.
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post #6 of 11 Old 10-20-2017, 05:07 PM
mike134
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As far as price, I think that's the best bet. Fuel pump is going to be a little over $100, and I think a CPS is around $80.

There is always a chance that wiring could be causing an intermittent failure as well. But in my experience wires usually fail when its cold outside rather than when its hot. I'm not sure that is wise advice, just the way I usually handle the diagnostics.

This isn't really relevant to your problem but I will say that today when I was ripping out the old carburetor wiring from my jeep, I found that my ignition coil wire was just barely spliced into the MPFI harness. That could have been a disaster.
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post #7 of 11 Old 10-20-2017, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
BadWolf1925
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Iím changing the ignition coil as we speak. I should have the new one put on in no time. Not very hard to do.
Iíve changed and replaced the CPS already.
I guess the only thing left is the fuel pump.
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post #8 of 11 Old 10-20-2017, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
BadWolf1925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike134 View Post
As far as price, I think that's the best bet. Fuel pump is going to be a little over $100, and I think a CPS is around $80.

There is always a chance that wiring could be causing an intermittent failure as well. But in my experience wires usually fail when its cold outside rather than when its hot. I'm not sure that is wise advice, just the way I usually handle the diagnostics.

This isn't really relevant to your problem but I will say that today when I was ripping out the old carburetor wiring from my jeep, I found that my ignition coil wire was just barely spliced into the MPFI harness. That could have been a disaster.
Oh wait by cps did you mean crank or cam? I replaced the crank.
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post #9 of 11 Old 10-20-2017, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
BadWolf1925
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I was just trying to test some of my spark plug wires while replacing the coil, and found that maybe the ones i used are not any good. what is a good brand for spark plug wires?
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post #10 of 11 Old 10-20-2017, 09:23 PM
mike134
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CPS means crankshaft position sensor on this forum.

It's really confusing because CPS can mean camshaft position sensor elsewhere.

But on the 95 wrangler, the camshaft position sensor on the distributor rarely fails (although sometimes it does). The crankshaft position sensor failure is many times more common.

I think the coil has good crap shoot odds. Good Luck!!
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post #11 of 11 Old 11-03-2017, 01:50 PM
Fly7Fisher
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I plugged through the same list of replacement parts on my daughter's 4.0. The last two items we tried were new coil, and clean the idle air control valve and throttle body. So far no more random stalling. Good luck.
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