94 YJ - Do I need new leaf springs? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 36 Old 03-24-2021, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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94 YJ - Do I need new leaf springs?

I recently had new tires and shocks installed on my 1994 YJ, this got rid of the nose diving and bouncing, however I still have some serious jolts on the highway, and feel like I can feel every single bump on the road. I use this to commute from IL to MI, in MI it's used on dirt and snow.

This machine still has the original leaf springs from 27 years ago, as well as the same shackles and leaf spring bushings. I really want to try to smooth this thing out as much as possible on the highway. I know it will never ride like a Caddie, but I feel like this thing should be able to take regular road bumps without breaking my teeth.

The jeep is completely stock, and I'm not looking for a lift, but would like some recommendations on softening up the suspension. Trac bars are still in place, not sure if that's as much of an issue.

Any help would be awesome.

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post #2 of 36 Old 03-24-2021, 12:04 PM
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replace the body mount pucks, get rid of the track bars, old man emu springs along with new shackle bushings and you will be amazed at the difference, depending on what shocks you got

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post #3 of 36 Old 03-24-2021, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94YJ94 View Post
I still have some serious jolts on the highway, and feel like I can feel every single bump on the road.
Yeah, ain't it great! You know you're not driving some boring car!

'93 YJ, '02 GM 4.3V6, SOA, dual ARB's, 8.8+D30(WarnHubs), 4.88s, 35" Patagonia M/Ts, AX15, NP231+4:1+SYE+2LO, York OBA.
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post #4 of 36 Old 03-24-2021, 12:32 PM
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How much do you want to spend and what kind of shocks did you get?
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post #5 of 36 Old 03-24-2021, 12:40 PM
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Its hard to find decent stock height springs. But if you want to go 2.5 inch lift and 31's and you can actually have a decent riding rig. No boring Cadilac but it can ride nice. My personal preference is BDS springs with RE in a close second. I have no experience with OME so I cant say much on that other than I have never heard a complaint about those eithier. I do know you have to have thier spring eye bushings where the others use off the shelf parts. Get a good set of shocks. I have the Quadratec Hydro 7.0's and love them but I also have a pretty heavy rig. Change your body mounts too. If you havent do engine and trans mounts as well. All your rubber bushings are beyond garbage by this point. I think crown is the only one that makes a stock height spring and I have never seen someone happy with them
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post #6 of 36 Old 03-24-2021, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Don't roast me. But I had a shop put on Monroe OESpectrum stock shocks. The old ones were completely shot.

The body mounts look really bad, just looking at them I feel like they crumble. The leaf spring bushings are also crumbling apart. The body mounts scare me a bit, because all I see on Youtube and forums is how these bolts just break apart and leave you having to cut up the tub to get to the other half of them.

I don't feel like the shocks are the primary culprit to the jolts, the more I think about it, the more I'm thinking this is a bushing issue...
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post #7 of 36 Old 03-24-2021, 01:46 PM
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It sounds like a totality of circumstances type situation the way you describe it.

Obviously, cracked unlubricated bushings will not allow the shackle to swing as the leafs try to compress and rebound. Hence, the jolt is shot straight up the line of your shackles, into your frame, through your crappy dry bushings, into the tub.

But you got more going on than you downplaying it to simply the spring bushings.

Body mounts are daunting. I was there. My new mounts sat in my locker for 2.5 years before I finally had enough. It took an entire day. Be careful. Lots of heat. Lots of Rust buster. Hammering. You may get lucky with most.

~YJOTM MAY '16, JULY '19~


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post #8 of 36 Old 03-24-2021, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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When you say it like that, I can't disagree. One thing at a time though, I think I'm going to go after the shackle bushings, then assess how big a headache the body mounts are. I can just picture all the rust on the frame when the tub is lifted...
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post #9 of 36 Old 03-24-2021, 03:16 PM
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It ain't glamorous. But you feel great once they're done and slathered in anti seize and you knownits never an issue again.


But I agree with you. One thing at a time, springs and bushings will help more than body mounts.
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post #10 of 36 Old 03-24-2021, 08:52 PM
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Im not sure about the shocks but I wonder if they are just a Monroe poorly valved fits lots of applications shock or something valved for your jeep. My gut says its the first one. You might try finding a safe but bumpy place and running first with the shocks and then removing them and trying again just to see if its the shocks or the springs. One other thought are you bottoming the shocks out on compression or hitting your bump stops? If your stock springs have settled enough to go negative arch you might be bottoming out every time you hit a bump.
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post #11 of 36 Old 03-24-2021, 09:32 PM
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I smoothed out the highway ride quite a bit by airing down a bit. Slightly less mpg but was worth it.
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post #12 of 36 Old 03-25-2021, 08:51 AM
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Do the FREE stuff first.

Does your local municipality require a physical inspection of the vehicle for registration? If not the biggest improvement to ride quality would be to remove the front and rear trac bars. If your state does require an inspection, you may need to have these on the Jeep for inspection to pass, so if remove them, keep them in a dry secure place and reinstall them for inspections every year.

The removal of these trac bars will not sacrifice any safety for you or your passengers, but will greatly free up the up-down motion of your leaf springs. It was the single best move for ride quality we did to my daughters YJ. It doesn't cost you anything but time, and it's literally 4 bolts.

Do this first.

Next, with the Jeep on level ground, chock the tires front and rear, loosen all the shackle bolts.
Once all the leaf spring bolts are loose (not off, just loose) jump on the front bumper a few times 4-5 times, then open the tailgate and jump on the rear 4-5 times.

this will cycle the suspension somewhat, and help free up any bound spring eye sleeves/bushings.

Once that is done, re-torque all the bolts to 75 ft/lbs of torque.

This is free and if your previous owner overtightened them or tightened them with the weight off the springs, it may be you are bound up some.

again, it's free. Just labor/time. and it may net some results.
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post #13 of 36 Old 03-25-2021, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
I have no experience with OME so I cant say much on that other than I have never heard a complaint about those eithier. I do know you have to have thier spring eye bushings where the others use off the shelf parts.
Just for the record, you CAN use standard poly bushings on OME. You may/must install either 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 ID machine bushings on both sides of the eye to take up the extra shoulder space, as the OME springs are about 1/8 to 3/16 thinner across the leaf than stock. Oddly enough, Ace Hardware carries two sizes with the correct IDs to slip over the bushings for front and rear positions. If you look closely, you can see them to the inside of the outer poly shoulder and the outside of the eye on each side.

I came across this by accident because I was never informed of the difference and had several sets of Daystar poly bushings laying around...no way I was going to pay the premium for the yellow bushings!
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post #14 of 36 Old 03-25-2021, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by gutthans View Post
Just for the record, you CAN use standard poly bushings on OME. You may/must install either 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 ID machine bushings on both sides of the eye to take up the extra shoulder space, as the OME springs are about 1/8 to 3/16 thinner across the leaf than stock. Oddly enough, Ace Hardware carries two sizes with the correct IDs to slip over the bushings for front and rear positions. If you look closely, you can see them to the inside of the outer poly shoulder and the outside of the eye on each side.

I came across this by accident because I was never informed of the difference and had several sets of Daystar poly bushings laying around...no way I was going to pay the premium for the yellow bushings!
Good to know there is a cheap easy solution for the problem. And if they ride anything like I hear totally worth the extra leg work.
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post #15 of 36 Old 03-25-2021, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gutthans View Post
Just for the record, you CAN use standard poly bushings on OME. You may/must install either 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 ID machine bushings on both sides of the eye to take up the extra shoulder space, as the OME springs are about 1/8 to 3/16 thinner across the leaf than stock. Oddly enough, Ace Hardware carries two sizes with the correct IDs to slip over the bushings for front and rear positions. If you look closely, you can see them to the inside of the outer poly shoulder and the outside of the eye on each side.

I came across this by accident because I was never informed of the difference and had several sets of Daystar poly bushings laying around...no way I was going to pay the premium for the yellow bushings!
I see a 7-blade HD cooling fan... rare.

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