94 Wrangler brake fluid loss - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 40 Old 01-22-2020, 08:29 AM Thread Starter
brianfulcher15
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94 Wrangler brake fluid loss

on my 94 Jeep Wrangler I'm having an issue where I'm losing all the brake fluid out of the smaller compartment in the master cylinder

is it possible for the brake booster to be bad but you only be losing fluid out of the one chamber in the master cylinder or should I be looking elsewhere for the leak

also can someone correct me if I'm wrong on this but isn't the smaller compartment for the rear brakes I have not pulled the tires yet but looking at the lines going to the rear I don't see any leaks anywhere so my guess is it's either a leak and the master cylinder or and booster or the leak is on a caliper

I do have a crown automotive dual diaphragm master cylinder and booster that I am planning to put in but I would feel a lot better about doing this if I knew the I didn't have a leak somewhere else when I started installing the new part.

it also looks like on the new master cylinder it may be needing to have different fittings for the lines and I'm also wondering if since I'm running disc brakes with a Ford 8.8 rear axle should I be running individual lines to each caliper or should I do anything to change the brake biasing

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post #2 of 40 Old 01-22-2020, 08:47 AM
jkbrereton
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Smaller compartment is for the rear drum brakes. You might have a leak somewhere in that line. Could be the wheel cylinders, or a hard brake line starting to blow.

Look for wet spots

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post #3 of 40 Old 01-22-2020, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkbrereton View Post
Smaller compartment is for the rear drum brakes. You might have a leak somewhere in that line. Could be the wheel cylinders, or a hard brake line starting to blow.

Look for wet spots

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Ok thats what i thought it looks ok on the main line so im betting the calipers on the 8.8 is leaking

No noticible leakes under the jeep

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post #4 of 40 Old 01-22-2020, 01:57 PM
jkbrereton
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If the wheel cylinder is leaking you might have a bunch of goo build up under the drum

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post #5 of 40 Old 01-22-2020, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
brianfulcher15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkbrereton View Post
If the wheel cylinder is leaking you might have a bunch of goo build up under the drum

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Oh I forgot to mention that my Ford 8.8 it's a disc brake setup.

Does the hydraulic fluid do anything with the drum style brakes that come on these fot parking or are those only controlled by the cables

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post #6 of 40 Old 01-22-2020, 05:29 PM
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Cables only

[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #7 of 40 Old 01-23-2020, 12:22 AM Thread Starter
brianfulcher15
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Found the leak rusted line with a pin hole, going to replace with a all stainless kit all the lines were rusted.

I was looking at this crown rt offroad booster and master i bought to go in, the connections are on the opposite side of the master, and i think the firtings might be different.

Also since i have this master it has 50/50 distributed chambers. Im questioning if i even need a proportioning valve.

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post #8 of 40 Old 01-23-2020, 05:48 AM
jkbrereton
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If you have 4 wheel discs you will need a master cylinder for 4 wheel discs as well as the correct proportioning valve. Disc brakes need a different back pressure in the line. I forget whether its more or less.

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post #9 of 40 Old 01-23-2020, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianfulcher15 View Post
...looking at this crown rt offroad booster and master i bought to go in, the connections are on the opposite side of the master, and i think the firtings might be different.
You can buy a simple ‘drum’ bender for under $10 to reconfigure the lines. Good auto parts stores should have adapters for any fitting differences metric/standard etc. Or: at the price of stainless line kits, buy a OTC flaring tool and make your own lines up with the ‘right’ fittings to start with? You can buy the bender, flare tool, fittings, and copper alloy brake line for about half the cost of the stainless prevent kits (which don’t have stainless fittings anyways).

[QUOTE=brianfulcher15;40854767] Also since i have this master it has 50/50 distributed chambers. Im questioning if i even need a proportioning valve. Sent out my Prius with iTalk’n’crap/QUOTE]

The size of the chambers (reservoir) is irrelevant to the piston size.

I would use the OEM proportioning valve unless directions in the package say otherwise. My 8.8 runs what seems like perfectly balanced with the front, and I went D35 drums to 8.8 discs...
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[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #10 of 40 Old 01-23-2020, 08:04 AM Thread Starter
brianfulcher15
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This is all it says for the portioning valve in ghe instructions

"If running 4-wheel disc brakes, we recommend

eliminating or modifying stock brake

proportioning valve to get adequate pressure to

the rear brakes for optimum stopping power."

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post #11 of 40 Old 01-23-2020, 02:24 PM
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I used the copper alloy brake line when I redid the brake lines on my truck.
It works great and is easy to use. I would use it again in a heartbeat!

93 YJ SOA 2" springs front, XJ springs rear w/main leaf added, High pinon 9 inch rear detroit locker front Dana 44 ARB 4.56 Gears, 36 inch Irok tires too much to list.
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post #12 of 40 Old 01-23-2020, 03:07 PM
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I replaced all my hard lines using pre-flared sections, so much faster than cutting and flaring. They come in every length and the whole thing only cost about $60. There are not any complicated bends but a simple bending tool helps.

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post #13 of 40 Old 01-23-2020, 03:37 PM
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Just make sure the fitting is where it needs to be BEFORE you bend the line. . Learned that the hard way

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post #14 of 40 Old 01-23-2020, 07:20 PM
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The copper alloy stuff is really cool and effective but what drives me nuts about it is that you do not end up with perfectly straight brakes lines no matter how hard you try.

I am really kind of anal about replacing brake lines. I either want pre bent stuff that is spot on or make my own and take the time to make them look factory. I don't like the looks or thought of putting unions in several places in order to buy lengths of pre flared lines. Just more potential failure places IMO.

Then again, I have good bending and flaring tools and a personal enjoyment or maybe even a sickness that I can do this and do it well. I worked in a vette shop many years ago and did a ton of fuel and brake lines on restorations let alone all the repairs I have made on DD's through the years. I just have a sense of pride and accomplishment when I am done and it looks awesome. Fabricating really nice looking brake or fuel lines for some reason flips my switch. I am weird.

If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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post #15 of 40 Old 01-23-2020, 08:18 PM
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^^^^ LOL
9 16d nails in a 2x4 make a decent straightener...

[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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