93 YJ Body Lift caused lights disaster - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 18 Old 07-15-2019, 11:19 PM Thread Starter
denverdan74
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93 YJ Body Lift caused lights disaster

1993 YJ installed 1 inch body lift and now the following headlight symptoms exist. I would assume I pulled a ground wire, but I can't find anything. Is there a super hidden wire I am missing? Because here is my dilemna...

Everything was working fine before the installation.
In all cases hazards and reverse lights work
After body lift spacers installed:
Low Beams - No Dash lights, no running lights, turn signals do NOT work
High Beams - Dash lights, running lights, and turn signals all work

I've been driving around with High Beams on when needed (I don't drive long distance or at night much)

Anyone have some ideas on where to start chasing this anomaly?

UPDATE - Light Switch replaced with DS-329. Headlights, parking, and running lights operational EXCEPT Flashers.
I can now drive around at night without worry EXCEPT flashing lights.
Hazards do work when they are the only lights on. But the dash indicator green turn signals are faintly on and then bright for the flash.
When turning on blinkers and any lights are on, the side running lights turn off and no blinking occurs.
With parking lights on, dash indicator green turn signals are faintly on.

Volt meter readings
Light switch on (Parking, Low or High beam)
only 7v at side marker lights.
12v on all other lights
Light switch off, hazards on
max 2.3v at side marker lights
12v on front turn signals

Disconnected all steering column wiring to check for the turn signal switch being a problem, no change
More testing to come...But 90% fixed. There has to be just some gremlin/mouse somewhere I haven't reached.


Last edited by denverdan74; 07-24-2019 at 09:27 PM. Reason: Update - After new switch
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post #2 of 18 Old 07-16-2019, 12:09 AM
Awesome
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There's no ground between the body and frame. The body bolts are the 'ground strap' for that.

Your issue is probably unrelated. I'm going to guess it's your headlight switch.
Que is good with this stuff. (why does the dang mention system not work properly?!)

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post #3 of 18 Old 07-16-2019, 05:30 AM
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It's possible a previous owner Jerry rigged some wiring and it got pulled upon install. But highly doubtful.

I'm with awesome.

Disconnect the headlight switch and clean it up with some keyboard dust blower in a can, then electrical contact cleaner and reconnect.

I know it seems like it might be a result of your body lift, but it is an old vehicle and a lot of these things happen and appear like coincidence. Our suggestion is quick and easy to do just to rule it out.

Man as I get closer to installing my body lift, I shudder at these types of thread titles lol. Hovering like a vulture on any title that mentions "body lift" and synonyms for "Disaster". Haha.

Stop whining about the 'ride' - If your YJ ain't wrangling your soul free, then might I suggest you buy a stationwagon... at least you can fit all your bull**** in the back.
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post #4 of 18 Old 07-16-2019, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
denverdan74
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Sounds good, I'll pull it all apart tonight, clean it, look for suspicious wiring, and report back.
Otherwise, next stop is a new switch.

Thank you
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post #5 of 18 Old 07-16-2019, 11:05 PM
Lockmin
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I beg to defer. I have a 93 Jeep YJ and had to pull the front grill to install an LS 5.3 and there are grounds from the grill that need to be reinstalled. I had numerous problems with lights and such until I reconnected them. I forgot about them. I just looked and they are from the wiring harness to just next to the headlights on the frame of the grill assembly. Once I reattached the two (right and left every problem went away. Just look at the factory wiring diagram. I hope this helps and I doubt it is the switch. Doing the LS swap I installed a lot of extra ground points around the engine and body. I would clean every ground you can find and install a few extras but it sure sounds like a ground issue.
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post #6 of 18 Old 07-16-2019, 11:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruinjeeper View Post
Man as I get closer to installing my body lift, I shudder at these types of thread titles lol. Hovering like a vulture on any title that mentions "body lift" and synonyms for "Disaster". Haha.
The only issue I had was getting the front pucks on. I didn't remove the grille or fenders, so it was tough. Also, I think my Jeep was rearended at some point, because the body doesn't fit on the frame exactly straight.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lockmin View Post
I beg to defer. I have a 93 Jeep YJ and had to pull the front grill to install an LS 5.3 and there are grounds from the grill that need to be reinstalled. I had numerous problems with lights and such until I reconnected them. I forgot about them. I just looked and they are from the wiring harness to just next to the headlights on the frame of the grill assembly. Once I reattached the two (right and left every problem went away. Just look at the factory wiring diagram. I hope this helps and I doubt it is the switch. Doing the LS swap I installed a lot of extra ground points around the engine and body. I would clean every ground you can find and install a few extras but it sure sounds like a ground issue.
Yes, that's something he could look at, but the grille is not the frame.

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post #7 of 18 Old 07-17-2019, 12:24 AM
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Well I have a factory manual and there is definitely a ground to both the engine and a separate ground to the body. Page "8w-64". Engine ground right side rear of engine and body ground right side of dash panel. Plus a ground to the engine starter motor and a ground to the PDC "power distribution center". Plus others connected to these. One bad ground and the positive will take the easiest path. Most everything is grounded to the body not the frame as it is just for support of the body.
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post #8 of 18 Old 07-17-2019, 12:36 AM
Awesome
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Exactly. Since there's no ground to mess with between the body and the frame, it's unlikely that his issue is directly related to the body lift.

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post #9 of 18 Old 07-17-2019, 04:08 AM
1project2many
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I do not agree that the light switch is a likely culprit. The light switch provides power to park lights in both "park" and "headlight" positions. It is in the "headlights" position during both low and high beam operation and does not change. I would be gathering additional data:

1) Do the front park lights work in "Park" position?
2) Do the tail lights work in "Park" position?
3) Do the dash lights work in "Park" position?
4) Do the turn signals work when the lights are "off?"
5) Do the turn signals work when the lights are in "Park?"
This level of detail can help determine if there is a problem with the headlight switch (controls all circuits) or a wire (provides power to some circuits).

6) Do park lights work in low beam position if headlights are unplugged?
(This is a stab in the dark based on prior experiences with shorted bulbs and the expectation that the lift project may have jarred the bulbs, but the headlights are easy to disconnect and the answer is simple yes/no)

Quote:
In all cases hazards and reverse lights work
7) Please confirm that turn signal bulbs still do not work in low beam. Ensure headlights are disconnected.

Then:

8) Confirm power to black/yellow wires at LH and RH park light in park, low, and high beam position (power at lights in all positions likely points to ground issue or wiring issue)

9) Please indicate any other interesting stories from body lift project that might be related. Things like "I dropped a wrench across the battery just as I spilled my blue Monter which then poured over the hot wrench onto the engine which subsequently caused a strange blue glow and now sometimes I can see through walls" could actually lead to an answer. (Hmm... your new vision is powered by YJ electrons but only when the lights are on low beam.)
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post #10 of 18 Old 07-17-2019, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
denverdan74
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1) Do the front park lights work in "Park" position? NO
2) Do the tail lights work in "Park" position? NO
3) Do the dash lights work in "Park" position? NO
4) Do the turn signals work when the lights are "off?" YES
5) Do the turn signals work when the lights are in "Park?" YES
6) Do park lights work in low beam position if headlights are unplugged? NO
7) Please confirm that turn signal bulbs still do not work in low beam. Ensure headlights are disconnected. Confirmed, they do not work.
8) Confirm power to black/yellow wires at LH and RH park light in park, low, and high beam position (power at lights in all positions likely points to ground issue or wiring issue)
Power Only in High Beam position.

9) Interesting fact/story - The Power Steering low pressure hose is not very long...Disconnect this prior to lifting the body off the frame. The plastic reservoir isn't very strong and the hose/clamp won the battle.
This is partially what makes me believe I stretched something else wiring related. I just can't find it.
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post #11 of 18 Old 07-18-2019, 04:51 AM
Que89YJ
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Do you have a meter and do you know how to use it? It should be easy to trace it down. You said you have a manual you are using. Is it a PDF or a book and is it a factory service manual?

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post #12 of 18 Old 07-19-2019, 10:47 AM
1project2many
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Sorry its taken so long to get back to this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by denverdan74 View Post
1) Do the front park lights work in "Park" position? NO
2) Do the tail lights work in "Park" position? NO
3) Do the dash lights work in "Park" position? NO
4) Do the turn signals work when the lights are "off?" YES
5) Do the turn signals work when the lights are in "Park?" YES
6) Do park lights work in low beam position if headlights are unplugged? NO
7) Please confirm that turn signal bulbs still do not work in low beam. Ensure headlights are disconnected. Confirmed, they do not work.
8) Confirm power to black/yellow wires at LH and RH park light in park, low, and high beam position (power at lights in all positions likely points to ground issue or wiring issue)
Power Only in High Beam position.

9) Interesting fact/story - The Power Steering low pressure hose is not very long...Disconnect this prior to lifting the body off the frame. The plastic reservoir isn't very strong and the hose/clamp won the battle.
This is partially what makes me believe I stretched something else wiring related. I just can't find it.
Well, I believe the answer to #8 really is the most important. With no power to the park lights in park or low beam the issue does not appear to be ground related. Looking at the wiring diagram there is no point where both turn signal and park lamp circuits should cross in the way yours do. Is it possible a PO came up with a homegrown fix and now you've discovered it? It might be tough to guess what has changed to cause this problem but you might be able to fix one problem at a time until everything is resolved.

I have a copy of '94 and '95 FSM but no '93. It would be tough for me to make an accurate guess as to what is going on without the correct FSM information.

Here are my tips:

1) Check every fuse in the inside fuse panel. Power for the park lamps should come from a different fuse than the headlights. Power for the turn signals should also be on a separate fuse which has only ignition power.

2) Check for modifications to the wiring harness which may provide an alternate current path, especially between park lamps and ignition circuit. Many problems can be diagnosed during a good visual inspection.

3) Check for power at headlight switch and at the dimmer switch. It appears that low beam power is supplied by a different circuit than high beam power in '94 and '95. In '94 the light green wire at dimmer is power for low beam while light green/white is power for high beam.
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post #13 of 18 Old 07-22-2019, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
denverdan74
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Update

I finally tore apart the dash to test power to the headlight switch assembly...Winner winner.
Upon pulling on it, a single metal contact pulled out with the connector. Looking at the connector it appeared black/burnt. (Black/Yellow Wire)

With power on, I was able to 'flex' the switch assembly and a click occurred and lights worked for a brief moment.

No local store with the switch, a new DS-329 will be here Wednesday. Hopefully to confirm this solved.


I'm sure the lift wasn't 100% at fault, but I wouldn't doubt that it helped something cause the problem. (That and being a 26 year old Jeep)
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post #14 of 18 Old 07-22-2019, 08:31 PM
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nice...

Glad you got it sorted.
@Awesome takes the prize on this mystery - i was 3 hours late

Stop whining about the 'ride' - If your YJ ain't wrangling your soul free, then might I suggest you buy a stationwagon... at least you can fit all your bull**** in the back.
~YJOTM MAY '16~
~YJOTM JULY '19~
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post #15 of 18 Old 07-23-2019, 06:14 AM
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I'll chime in on this. Gonna say its more than likely the switch. Replace it with a new DS-329 and you should be good to go.
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