87 auto trans convert to fit a 95 - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 17 Old 12-08-2019, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
Armytruck6x6
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87 auto trans convert to fit a 95

I'm building a jeep for my wife. It's a 95YJ, 6cyl, EFI, 3 speed auto. Long story short, I'm not having much luck at finding a used one to swap. A rebuild is pricey, and new is obviously more. Is it possible to use an auto transmission from an 87YJ? My understanding is that the 87YJ is carbed, and my 95YJ is EFI... with that said, has anyone "cut in" the CS sensor spot on the bell housing needed for the later model YJs?

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post #2 of 17 Old 12-08-2019, 04:35 PM
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What's your idea of expensive? I have a place that does all my rebuilding. They send me a trans and I send them the old one. I think it's around 1500 bucks and that includes shipping both ways.

The crank sensor can be moved to the harmonic balancer with the Hesco kit... which also isn't cheap. (300 bucks)

https://hesco.us/products/7902/40l-c...d#.Xe15lehKi1s

You can also look on ebay or junkyards although they are becoming more rare. A bunch of cars, trucks and vans used the 32RH.
Even full sized Dodge vans with the small V-8's.
The Fury cop cars too.

A Law repugnant to the Constitution is void. Marbury vs. Madison 1803 I'm talking to you, Virginia...
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post #3 of 17 Old 12-08-2019, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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I was guessing $1500... I was trying to go used and cheap with her jeep. She just wants to drive around with the top off, nothing crazy. I just put 15k into my tj so was looking for a cheap option than a rebuilt. I've found a few of the earlier autos for 2-300$ but none of the later autos. If i had my way she would drive a standard as all jeeps should be (sorry to the auto guys out there, just my opinion lol) thx for the kit idea had not seen that before. Then again, had never looked before either.
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post #4 of 17 Old 12-08-2019, 05:01 PM
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Automatic Transmission Rebuild Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AOQON0..._s9x7DbXYSCMBM

[size=3]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #5 of 17 Old 12-08-2019, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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I have not rebuilt a transmission before... I guess its an option.
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post #6 of 17 Old 12-08-2019, 06:54 PM
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I never rebuilt one before I did it the first time, either 🙂
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[size=3]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #7 of 17 Old 12-08-2019, 10:16 PM
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It's one of the simplest automatics. The key is CLEAN. Every part must be clean. (besides assembled correctly!)

And I'm an automatic guy. A manual is not going to last, especially the clutch. My brother (in Colorado) would follow me, above timberline. A steep curvy muddy and INTENSE trail. A mistake could be fatal. (Peak 10 trail) I was so glad to have an automatic.
An automatic has a torque converter which is a torque multiplier. The closest you will get to free energy!

" The main characteristic of a torque converter is its ability to multiply torque when the output rotational speed is so low that it allows the fluid coming off the curved vanes of the turbine to be deflected off the stator while it is locked against its one-way clutch, thus providing the equivalent of a reduction gear."

From Hot Rod magazine.

"the fluid exits the center of the turbine and is redirected by the stator back into the impeller. This is a very slick trick and can be worth up to 2.5 times engine torque! This means that at a 2:1 torque multiplication ratio, an engine that is making 300 lb-ft of torque at a stall speed of 2,500 rpm will actually apply 600 lb-ft of torque to the input shaft of the transmission as the car leaves the starting line."

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp...ue-converters/

^^^
THAT is really helpful when climbing over a rock.

Speaking of automatics, what's wrong? The A-999 and 32RH have adjustable bands. If they are out of adjustment, can cause slipping.
Also, the pump is in front if it has low pump pressure.

I had an A999 rebuilt for 500 bucks as a side job, someone I knew. Think creatively. DO you know anyone who might be willing to rebuild it?

A Law repugnant to the Constitution is void. Marbury vs. Madison 1803 I'm talking to you, Virginia...
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post #8 of 17 Old 12-09-2019, 05:26 AM Thread Starter
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Fluid is badly burnt and it will only move forward with very high rpm... I tried flushing it with new fluid, but no change. Even the shifter its self is super hard to move.
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post #9 of 17 Old 12-09-2019, 06:42 AM Thread Starter
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I did find a used trans a few months ago at a jeep salvage yard about 2+ hrs away for $300... I'm pretty sure i know the answer everyone will give, but is it worth the risk of time and $$$ for that used trans? I'd guess the risk is high that it's "well used", the yard said it worked when it was taken out.
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post #10 of 17 Old 12-09-2019, 06:44 AM
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If warrantee then I’d take that gamble

[size=3]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #11 of 17 Old 12-09-2019, 07:06 AM Thread Starter
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I'm new to this forum... is thier a way to post pics?
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post #12 of 17 Old 12-09-2019, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Armytruck6x6 View Post
I'm new to this forum... is thier a way to post pics?
You can use web links to photo hosting sites,

or when posting, DOn't use the dialogue box at the bottom, but click the "post reply" bubble and then you'll see a paperclip for attachments..

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post #13 of 17 Old 12-09-2019, 04:21 PM
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If it worked they pulled it, and they're not lying, buy it.

I have a recipe to never have auto trans problems again. (does not apply to the new computer controlled trans)

1. Install an external trans cooler. A big trans cooler.
2. Every year, suck out the trans fluid, record exactly what you remove, replace with quality fluid of the right type.

Pulling the pan is a hassle and I won't do it as often as I need to because it's a drag.
I bought a vacuum fluid extractor, a good one.

1. Pull the dipstick.
2. Insert the suction tube till you feel it hit the pan.
3. Pump the extractor about 30 times.
4. Open the valve, watch the trans fluid quickly flying thru the tube!
5. Wait till it's done. Maybe a minute or two
6. Measure how much is removed. From my experience, it's about half of total capacity. The Jeep? 4 quarts.
7. Refill with ATF+4 synthetic.
8. Check several times, engine running, shifter in neutral, not park.

If the trans fluid is dirty and burnt, it will take several times for the fluid to be clean, driving a few days in between.

An automatic will last virtually forever IF the fluid is kept cool and clean and the bands in adjustment.

Your trans "sounds like" it has low line pressure from either a faulty pressure relief valve or failing pump. The relief valve is the most common cause, but that usually takes out the pump, which often destroys the bands.
If caught early, replacing the valve or pump (or both) plus a new torque converter and flushed fluid including the lines and cooler will save the trans. This usually does not happen! People drive the trans into the ground!

^^^

You may or not do any of this or give a ****. This is for readers of the forum. To you readers, get off your *** and clean your trans fluid!

A Law repugnant to the Constitution is void. Marbury vs. Madison 1803 I'm talking to you, Virginia...
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post #14 of 17 Old 12-09-2019, 06:04 PM
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Why do you say your fluid is burnt. Is it by smell or looks? Burnt fluid has a distinct smell. Discolored fluid is often called burnt fluid. I ask this because I am a mechanic and have vehicles come in with what is called burnt fluid all the time when it is nothing more that fluid that is old and discolored. Fluid becomes discolored by normal use. The red in trans fluid is a dye that wears out and does not maintain its color. Normal friction material wear and tear also discolors fluid. I reiterate though. I see fluid that was condemned as being burnt all the time that really isnt.


Fluid on these must be checked in neutral with the engine running or it will be very low. Your problem could be low fluid. Maybe.

The shifter being hard to move is no indicator of a bad trans. My 87 is column shifted and hard to move but yet the trans operates flawlessly and the fluid is pristine. The column mechanism and linkages on mine just need some cleanup and TLC. Some new lube will work wonders.

There is a lot of spot on advice posted but yet not sure how you are totally going about things reading your posts. Sometimes internet diagnostics miss or overlook some very simple things and cost people money.
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If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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post #15 of 17 Old 12-10-2019, 06:39 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the thoughts... the fluid looks burnt, smells burnt, and is very thick like 90wt. I have checked the fluid level and have flushed 8qts of new fluid through the trans with no change. Linkage has been lubed and operates as it should.

A little about me... I have 35yrs of working on vehicles with my first job being a light wheeled vehicle mechanic in the army for 4 yrs. I currently own a welding shop and have just completed a 15k frame off rebuild of a 97 jeep TJ. Mechanical ability is no issue.

My issue is not with troubleshooting, it's finding a transmission. As with any series of vehicles their are lots of options or combos of components. In this case, their are 2 auto trans for the YJ ie; A999 and 32RH. I basically have 2 questions for the YJ geeks out there... 1) can I convert the A999 to fit the later year YJ, and 2) would it be worth the hassle to swap out a used trans rather than have the 32RH rebuilt. As stated above, a kit is available to put the CS sensor on the harmonic balancer.

With all that said... thank you all for your opinions and help.
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