8.8 ? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 15 Old 07-07-2020, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
carlsflh
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8.8 ?

getting ready to start collecting parts to regear to 4.10 from 3.07 i can find d30s with 4.10 gears but good rear d35s with 4.10 are not that common .everyone tells me just to get a ford 8.8.my question is with a 8.8 will i need to change over to a sye right away or can i use the stock driveshaft till i can afford one ?i'm running 2.5 lift[ome] and 30x9.50x15 tires may go to 31s when new tires are needed

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post #2 of 15 Old 07-07-2020, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carlsflh View Post
getting ready to start collecting parts to regear to 4.10 from 3.07 i can find d30s with 4.10 gears but good rear d35s with 4.10 are not that common .everyone tells me just to get a ford 8.8.my question is with a 8.8 will i need to change over to a sye right away or can i use the stock driveshaft till i can afford one ?i'm running 2.5 lift[ome] and 30x9.50x15 tires may go to 31s when new tires are needed
I would not invest a dime in a D35

the stock driveshaft could work but it will probably be too long, the pinion snout on the 8.8 is longer. I would wait and do it all at once so you don't have to mess with the shaft twice plus the pinion angle twice. Check the 8.8 thread up top in the FAQ.

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post #3 of 15 Old 07-07-2020, 05:59 PM
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The 8.8 is much more stout than a D35.
I needed a new front axle when I bent mine during a huge unintentional jump.

"Rusty Griswald : Wow dad, we must have jumped that rail by like 50 yards.

Clark Griswald : Nothing to be proud of Russ...

[pauses as Rusty walks away]

Clark Griswald : [proudly] ... 50 yards..."

Anyway, I got a front 4:10 with a free rear 4:10 for 200 bucks. This is the older, better non-c-clip rear where the wheel won't immediately fall out if the axle breaks like the newer version. Around here they are common. Every 4 cyl manual YJ came with 4:10's.

If you can find a good deal, it's a good value because you can get your money back at anytime when upgrading.

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post #4 of 15 Old 07-07-2020, 06:41 PM
Boojo35
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If you are going to wheel it and go to bigger tires etc. then go the one and done route and pay for all the upgrades one time. A 307 to a 410 requires a different diff carrier. Then you blow the turdy five up and still have to upgrade and buy all the same stuff a second time for your upgraded diff.

A slip yoke eliminator is a great idea. Some 2.5" lifts need them, some do not. It matters from Jeep to Jeep but the driveshaft angle on a YJ is terrible.... Even on a stock one.

It is often cheaper to bite the bullet, plan ahead and do your stuff one time.

If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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post #5 of 15 Old 07-07-2020, 08:54 PM
timatoe
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I wouldn't spend money on the D35 either, did that once......

Keep an eye for guys pulling a complete t-case with the SYE already installed, I see them frequently for less than the cost of just the SYE.

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post #6 of 15 Old 07-07-2020, 10:30 PM
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I tried to run the stock driveshaft on my 8.8 initially. Granted I was lifted 4-5" but the angle was steep for the u-joints. Maybe with a trans drop and your 2.5" lift it'll work but hard to say.

I made a thread a while back on a budget 8.8 swap that you may want to check out.

As others have said, don't waste any money on the D35. There are plenty of people who claim you can make a D35 strong but the reality is that you'll spend probably twice as much to beef up the D35 as it would cost to pay someone else to weld up an 8.8 for you and it still won't be as strong as the stock 8.8.
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post #7 of 15 Old 07-07-2020, 10:37 PM
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Woooo i finally get to help answer these questions. I just finished my first 8.8 swap on my jeep. Had to redo it twice but thats because i was stupid and forgot to weld the tube to the pumpkin lol. It would spin under acceleration and i thought i had my dimensions wrong so i pulled it back out and redid it.

Im running a 3.5" lift (old man emu with lift shackles) with a transfer case drop and the stock driveshaft. I used east coast gear supply products to do my swap such as the driveshaft adapter to retain my stock driveshaft. I used their stuff for the perches/u bolts and the brake kit itself. My biggest advice, keep your dana 35 laying around because you'll need the brake block which the lines will screw into. I luckily kept my d35 near by to get my measurements right. You could use my measurements but every jeep is different.

If you have any questions just reply here. I did mine myself with no knowledge on swapping axles.
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post #8 of 15 Old 07-08-2020, 05:54 AM
fishadventure
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An 8.8 is like $200 or less depending on where you are. A Barnes kit for perches and shock mounts can be had for ?$100? or so. A Tom Woods CV driveshaft is what? $300ish

I cut the perches super short to not lose any height and took length off them to match YJ length and not impede ride, flex, or height. I modified an XJ CV front shaft for a rear. Clearanced the yokes so they wouldn’t bind at full droop. I spent $400ish

I’d just do the 8.8 myself again if I’m that position again, and since I have a second YJ now that’s exactly what I’m doing

Some stuff is worth it to cheap out, some stuff isn’t. The ‘extra’ spend on an 8.8 isn’t that much in the grand scheme of things and rear diff worries don’t exist; I don’t need a plan B or wonder “what if.”

[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #9 of 15 Old 07-08-2020, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
Some stuff is worth it to cheap out, some stuff isn’t. The ‘extra’ spend on an 8.8 isn’t that much in the grand scheme of things and rear diff worries don’t exist; I don’t need a plan B or wonder “what if.”
This was my theory as well. Selling a working D35 is more cost effective than taking it to the scrap yard for $15-$20. If you break an axle on the trail, even fairly locally, the cost of a tow can quickly kill any money you might be saving for the upgrade. If you happen to be more than an hour away from home, the cost of a single tow home can be more than that of an axle swap.


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post #10 of 15 Old 07-08-2020, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timatoe View Post
I wouldn't spend money on the D35 either, did that once......

Keep an eye for guys pulling a complete t-case with the SYE already installed, I see them frequently for less than the cost of just the SYE.
Hmm, that's exactly what I did.
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post #11 of 15 Old 07-08-2020, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
carlsflh
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thanks guys i've read about half of the 8.8 threads and will read the rest . the pull a parts near me have lots of 95-01 explorers and want 130 for a rear axel so i'm going that route cost between doing the 8.8 swap vs regearing and a used carrier for a d35 is almost the same and putting that much cash into a turd does't make sense.
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post #12 of 15 Old 07-08-2020, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carlsflh View Post
thanks guys i've read about half of the 8.8 threads and will read the rest . the pull a parts near me have lots of 95-01 explorers and want 130 for a rear axel so i'm going that route cost between doing the 8.8 swap vs regearing and a used carrier for a d35 is almost the same and putting that much cash into a turd does't make sense.
If you can get one with the limited slip, it will give you a solid base until you decide you desperately need a locker and/or start getting into serious rock crawling.


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post #13 of 15 Old 07-09-2020, 04:05 AM
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With that price... and if you can make up your own perches and shock mounts...

I put one of these into a local guy’s D30. He says it’s not as smooth/invisible as driving my Aussie is but it installed and looks the same as my Aussie and functions as effectively with his 2.5 on 37s
Climb Master https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DQRXMFS..._MMUbFbXPS2ZJQ

(A front locker put my jeep into a whole new category fwiw. Also, 37s on that young man’s jeep ultimately provided a very good visual demonstration of why you should truss the Cs and tubes on a D30)

[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #14 of 15 Old 07-09-2020, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
With that price... and if you can make up your own perches and shock mounts...

I put one of these into a local guy’s D30. He says it’s not as smooth/invisible as driving my Aussie is but it installed and looks the same as my Aussie and functions as effectively with his 2.5 on 37s
Climb Master https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DQRXMFS..._MMUbFbXPS2ZJQ

(A front locker put my jeep into a whole new category fwiw. Also, 37s on that young man’s jeep ultimately provided a very good visual demonstration of why you should truss the Cs and tubes on a D30)
Agreed. I did some pretty severe trails on 35's with a lunchbox locker up front and the 8.8 LSD in the rear. Getting the tire pressures equal up front makes all the difference when driving on the street. I also broke my ring gear before breaking the Spartan locker I had up front.

Since we got a little off topic and it might get confusing... I would NOT run one of those lockers in the rear. Most people say they can adjust their driving style to make it work but the road manners are not good when used in the rear.


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post #15 of 15 Old 07-09-2020, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Waternut View Post
... I would NOT run one of those lockers in the rear. Most people say they can adjust their driving style to make it work but the road manners are not good when used in the rear.
Interesting side note- the young guy with the jeep mentioned dropped in 4.88s up front and a locked 4.88 8.8 a few weeks back. His girlfriend drives it to work everyday; they don’t mind the chirps

I would.
Chirps sound a lot like money to me.

[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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