4.0 motor tick - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 7 Old 02-11-2020, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
artallison
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1974 CJ6 
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 20
4.0 motor tick

94 yj, 4.0. Noticed the other day when I parked it in first gear the compression was not enough to hold the jeep in place. Moderately steep hill. Had to use the E-brake. This kinda concerned me. I don't remember ever having to use the e-brake before. And it kinda backs down slowly. You can hear the compression building and releasing and watch it slowly back away.

Other day, we were going along at 75 mph. Oil pressure is showing itís usual high pegged out and about 50-60 at idle. From everything I can see, I assume the sender is not correct. And the high oil pressure seems to be very common in these.

So Iím getting off the interstate and I come to the yield sign at the bottom. I notice the motor has a very audible ticking sound. First thing I think of is lifters. But those should be hydraulic so it canít be lifters. Iím all worried but I figure as long as it is running, keep on going. Over the next few minutes the ticking goes away and now seems to be fine. We drove about 125 miles on Saturday and another 50 or so since then.

I plan on changing the oil filter and oil this weekend. I thought Iíd take the oil pressure sending unit apart and seeing if I could clean crap out of it. Or just replace it.

Any other thoughts?

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post #2 of 7 Old 02-11-2020, 07:04 PM
mike134
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how many miles and when was the last time you changed the clutch?

not saying you need it yet, but would you be capable of swapping an engine yourself? or would you need to pay someone? is this your primary and only vehicle?

I would be surprised if compression was your issue. you should have so little power at thiat point that it would be unsafe to drive on the highway.

Try this: go for a drive at slow speed in too high of a gear, really hit the gas. does the engine rpm go up without a corresponding increase in sleedometer/acceleration?

Edited with one more suggestion: try your hill park test again. its possible it wasnt fully in gear.
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post #3 of 7 Old 02-11-2020, 07:32 PM
Boojo35
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An Automatic trans has a thing called a park pawl. It will positively lock a vehicle in place with limitations. A manual trans which I assume you have has no positive locking arrangement. A manual trans should never be parked on any surface, let alone an incline without the parking brake applied. It is the nature of the beast.

BTW, if you figure out how to take an oil sending unit apart and clean and make it work..... make a sticky thread.... You would be a hero.....
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If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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post #4 of 7 Old 02-12-2020, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
artallison
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Sorry, fairly new clutch, manual.

Drives fine. I"ts not fast but I'd call it quick for what it is.

More worried about the ticking sound. I can do a compression test. I know the V8's more than the I6.
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post #5 of 7 Old 02-12-2020, 05:49 PM
93YJfalcon
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Mine had a tick that would cycle louder/softer. I figured a lifter was pumping up and then losing it's lift. Swapping to full synthetic oil made it go away.
I always carry my e-brake... I mean e-brick on the floor behind my seat, just in case I have to park on a hill

ROCK OVER LONDON... ROCK ON CHICAGO!
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post #6 of 7 Old 02-12-2020, 06:18 PM
fishadventure
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Fresh fluid could have fixed it. Nothing wrong with synthetic but it’s clean and doesn’t ‘coke up’ recipro surfaces like dyno does. Our old-tech high mileage motors sorta like varnishy oil cuz it keeps bearing clearances tight. Synth doesn’t do that.
Synth can be good especially in new-spec machines. Nevertheless it isn’t the magic they want you to believe but they do want your extra money pretty bad. 🙂

[size=ď3Ē]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #7 of 7 Old 02-12-2020, 07:09 PM
Boojo35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
Fresh fluid could have fixed it. Nothing wrong with synthetic but itís clean and doesnít Ďcoke upí recipro surfaces like dyno does. Our old-tech high mileage motors sorta like varnishy oil cuz it keeps bearing clearances tight. Synth doesnít do that.
Synth can be good especially in new-spec machines. Nevertheless it isnít the magic they want you to believe but they do want your extra money pretty bad. 🙂
True and not true. Carbon buildup, internal sludging or engine parts just being coated with black stuff can or cannot happen in engines regardless of oil type. It happens faster with dino oil but religious oil changes with QUALITY dino oil can be very clean engines on teardown with very high miles. Like upwards of 2 to 300K miles. Synthetic engines that have been maintained well within manufacturers or oil companies recommendations can be blackened and coked up as hell at low miles. Been there, done that too man times.

I agree. Some synthetic oils or lubricants because there are more than just motor oils that fall into this category are way overblown and the cost is not always justified.

I am a hardcore valvoline guy. I do not believe that oil is oil. Some folks say that any cheap stuff is the same. No it isn't. I have been blessed or cursed depending on how you look at it of opening up more engines than most people could ever dream of in a lifetime. Be it a major engine repair or just a valve cover gasket replacement for instance.

I will state that turbo charged engines need synthetic oil. The turbo bearing itself gets extra heat protection against coking on a reciprocating surface.

If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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