1990 YJ Build Thread, One Question at a time? - Page 7 - JeepForum.com
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post #91 of 609 Old 11-14-2019, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
In my opinion you dont need to buy parts to do a tummy tuck.

The brown dog motor mount reputation is excellent, but I just made my own mounts because I did a little more than tuck to flat belly: I made it flat!

As far as the adjustable rear control arms control arms are for coil sprung vehicles. Not YJs.

As far as the transmission transfer case mount, a piece of tubing a 6 x 7 piece of steel plate and a couple of bushing mounts to weld to the frame and you can make a crossmember and not have to worry about the crossmember skid plate.

So then you make a flat skid plate that can be removed easily and you can work on stuff without having to support it before you can support it and do maintenance and whatever else and have it be a joy.

Yeah Im a little bully on the true flat belly 🙂

as far as the transmission / transfer case mount, a piece of tubing, a 6 x 7 piece of steel plate and a couple of bushing mounts to weld to the frame and you can make a crossmember and not have to worry about the wannabe-crossmember /. skid plate.

Then you make an actual flat skid plate that can be removed easily and you can work on stuff without having to support it before you can support it and do maintenance and whatever else and have it be a joy.

Yeah Im a little bully on the true flat skid. But dont feel like you have to do it. You will probably need a new driveshaft and/or SYE if you do
Okay i think i have a design plan for the crossmember. My question is where is a good place to get bushings and mounts? I am guessing that i should have bushings on top of the crossmember for the t-case and tranny to rest on.

If you have pictures of a setup i would greatly appreciate it.



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post #92 of 609 Old 11-14-2019, 05:45 PM
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You don’t need the transmission to set on a rubber mount of some sort.

I used spring shackle bushings on each end and welded a tube in between; welded ears to the frame. So I have welded mounts (more than adequately strong), rubber bushings to cut down on vibes, and the maximum clearance possible - which is what we wanted a jeep anyway

I drew a quick picture because I don’t have a photo in the dark

Don’t credit me credit bpounds or thegoob or timatoe or somebody...
it was a great idea.
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[size=3]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
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post #93 of 609 Old 11-15-2019, 07:12 AM Thread Starter
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@fishadventure Thank you for the drawing. It makes sense to me now.

I looked on Barnes4WD and i found these items and im going to get them to help make the crossmember i need.

https://www.barnes4wd.com/Crossmembe...Set_p_112.html

https://www.barnes4wd.com/Universal-...ket_p_504.html

And then just a standard transmission mount? or do you recommend something else?

What size/type of tubing did you use?


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post #94 of 609 Old 11-15-2019, 07:51 AM
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The crossmember itself is a motorcycle fork tube from a disassembled motorcycle; - robust and strong. I used a piece of quarter inch flat steel from the scrap metal bin; drilled holes to match the transmission bolt holes. I cut off front shackle frame mounts from an old YJ frame and t-welded them to a couple of pieces of scrap tubing that I had. The ears that weld to the frame are merely a few inches of quarter inch steel with a 9/16 hole drilled in them.

The scrap tubing was selected to be a tight fit over the fork tube and gave me the flexibility to adjust left/right as well as absorb any forward up/down needed to set the motor. Once the mockup was centered and 3* rake of motor setup included I then welded everything up.

My rendition is slightly different than that of bpounds or JBolty or whoever it was that I copied their flat belly skid thread, but realistically it has so many advantages that I’ve experienced I can’t see another way at this point

[size=3]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
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post #95 of 609 Old 11-15-2019, 08:00 AM Thread Starter
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A fork tube from a motorcycle is genius! I will have to see what i have laying around.

Thank you for your help.


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post #96 of 609 Old 11-15-2019, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
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What if i used my old track bar as a cross member? I was thinking about what i had and that already has one end ready to go.

Thoughts?


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post #97 of 609 Old 11-15-2019, 12:09 PM
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Wouldn’t that cause some sort of infection if left in the heep?!

[size=3]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #98 of 609 Old 11-15-2019, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
Wouldnt that cause some sort of infection if left in the heep?!
LOL yeah if left for steering but as new crossmember do you thing the tubing itself would work and then put a sleeve over it?

Just thinking about what i have around in the garage and that is what came across to me.


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post #99 of 609 Old 11-15-2019, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpia84 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
Wouldn’t that cause some sort of infection if left in the heep?!
LOL yeah if left for steering but as new crossmember do you thing the tubing itself would work and then put a sleeve over it?

Just thinking about what i have around in the garage and that is what came across to me.
Does it have long enough of a straight section? Metal-wise I think they’re solid so probably more than strong enough.

[size=3]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #100 of 609 Old 11-19-2019, 07:09 AM
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ah. This where it was wanted.
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[size=3]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #101 of 609 Old 11-19-2019, 07:52 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
ah. This where it was wanted.
That looks sweet! That is what i was imagining after you drew your picture. I need to find some good solid tubing and ill get this thing fab'd up. I am looking for a welder to purchase so i can do a lot of fabs myself.

Thank you for the picture and the help.


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post #102 of 609 Old 11-19-2019, 08:04 AM Thread Starter
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I got more parts in yesterday. I got my Daystar 1" body lift and another set of M.O.R.E. boom shackles.

Hopefully i can get to that in the next week or so. Otherwise it will happen after i move and get my garage setup.

I have been driving the Jeep the past couple of days and it runs great. Well the engine is running well. The transmission definitely has to warm up before i just drive around. Once i get the rear axle swapped in ill look at dropping the tranny and seeing if i need to do a rebuild or what my plan will be. When i do that a new clutch will happen as well.


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post #103 of 609 Old 11-20-2019, 06:14 AM
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I am looking for a welder to purchase so i can do a lot of fabs myself. Thank you for the picture and the help.
If you are looking in the direction of a 120V wire feed welder, keep in mind that MiG is going to be a little low on power and thereby penetration on structural stuff like the tabs on the frame. . But it’s invaluable on sheetmetal and many other brackets around the jeep. So use gas on most stuff but switch the polarity and use fluxcore on the frame and stuff.

Of course if you’re looking at a bigger 220V machine that will penetrate everything on the heep just fine with Mig and it’s a much nicer looking result without all the shielding spatter and protective slag

[size=3]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #104 of 609 Old 11-21-2019, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
If you are looking in the direction of a 120V wire feed welder, keep in mind that MiG is going to be a little low on power and thereby penetration on structural stuff like the tabs on the frame. . But its invaluable on sheetmetal and many other brackets around the jeep. So use gas on most stuff but switch the polarity and use fluxcore on the frame and stuff.

Of course if youre looking at a bigger 220V machine that will penetrate everything on the heep just fine with Mig and its a much nicer looking result without all the shielding spatter and protective slag
I have done some comparisons between 110v and 220v. If i can find a good deal ill get a 220v otherwise more than likely my initial welder will be a 110v. I do know i want a mig. I have looked at different welders and hopefully i find one soon.

Thank you.


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post #105 of 609 Old 11-21-2019, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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I did the rear shackle lift yesterday afternoon. It actually went on very smooth. The only issue was when i dropped the gas tank skid the gas tank tried to drop as well. Luckily enough I caught i and used the jack to hold it up. But the strap for the tank was not holding it up. I am going to look to see what options i have to keep the tank up. right now i put the skid back up to hold everything. i do plan on dropping the tank this winter to ensure it is secured.

I do have a question with regards to the skid im making for under the trans and t-case. What material and thickness should i use? I was thinking 1/2" aluminum to keep the weight down. I do plan on adding holes so if i need to service the trans or t-case I will be able to do so without dropping the skid. if this is ill-advised then i will hold off.

Ill post pictures of the shackle lift and the Jeep later.


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