1990 YJ Build Thread, One Question at a time? - Page 5 - JeepForum.com
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post #61 of 609 Old 10-11-2019, 08:06 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Chrisnvegas View Post
A CRT HEI wakes up the 4.2
Add a Motorcraft 2150 and a free breathing intake and exhaust and the 4.2 is close to a 4.0.
Add a 4.0 head and the 4.2 will pass a 4.0
The TBI doesn't really add much power over a well set up 2150 but overall will run so much better and smoother.

I have done those mods, one at a time on a fresh rebuilt 4.2 and during the test drive, the biggest seat-of-the pants was the HEI.
It went from being sluggish but torquey to quickly revving to the redline and chirping tires.
Something about the original Duraspark makes the 4.2 sluggish over 2800 to 3000 rpm. The HEI unleashed the engine's higher RPM tendency without losing anything down low.

Even without the better breathing 4.0 head, the 4.2 becomes very acceptable with a CRT brand HEI (and appropriate new plug wires) plugs gaped to .045 instead of .035 (copper plugs only)

Next, depending on wallet, either a TBI or a Motorcraft 2150 with 1.08 venturi and appropriate power valve and jets for your elevation.

A free breathing cold air intake that draws air from outside, not underhood.

A free breathing exhaust.

^^^

Follow that recipe and if your 4.2 is healthy to begin with, you'll grin during the test drive.


A year later, I got ahold of a TBI from a 90's S10 Blazer. Not sure if it gained power over the carb, but it ran smoother and better in every way. It actually took on a characteristics of a Chevy 4.3!

5 years later, it's still in the garage running trouble-free.
Well the good thing is i have a CRT HEI Distributor with new plugs and wires n my garage right now. I plan on installing it Monday when i have the day off after i fix my valve cover gasket. I need to pick up an ignition coil too. But i have ordered stud bolts for the the top of the head so i can put the gasket on and then secure the valve cover with nuts. I have read how to install the CRT HEI but do you have any tips or tricks to ensure a smooth easy install?

Currently i have a Weber 32/36 Carb on the Jeep and it seems to work okay right now. That being said I have looked at the 2150 carb and the 4.3 TBI. I am not sure which way i want to go but im sure ill do one of them in the future. I definitely want the longevity and ease of a smooth running motor.

Can you further explain a free breathing intake, and exhaust? Or suggest parts to get. I have install intakes and exhausts before but i am just not familiar with the free-breathing term.

I will look for a 4.0 head but how difficult is it to do that swap? Im sure it wouldnt be too difficult to find one. What other parts should i be swapping out when i do the head swap?

Thank you for the help and input.



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post #62 of 609 Old 10-11-2019, 08:30 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
Personally I think 4.10 would be good for the 4.2 on paper since you have the torque for them. Horsepower is only part of the picture. Remember Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall torque is how far you take it with you. But I dont have the 4.2 so I can speak from experience. You may want to set up a poll and see what others think since what is great to one is horrible to another and vicaversa.

As far as more power as @Drix said theres the 4.0 head swap and there is also the Howell or Mopar fuel injection and I believe there is a write up on adding a chevy 4.3 TBI to your existing set up which would also get you more power.

If I was doing this I would go for the end plan. If 35's are happening in the next year or so go with 4.88 if its gonna be longer you need to decide your cost/benifit. Also how much driving do you do? Highway vs. City. There is alot of factors to give you a good answer. When I first went 4.10's I was on 31's I had tons of go power but ran out of power quickly on the highway and my RPM's were pretty high even by my standards and I dont have a problem revving the hell out of it. I also currently DD mine 60 miles each way to work. If it was my second vehicle just for fun I would have been ok with the extra RPM's I can tell you when I had the 31's In 4low at an idle in first she would climb a tree. I might go 35's in the near future and I think I will still be relatively happy with the 4.10's.

Its all about what you like though and your situation/Driving habits and conditions.
My Jeep is not a Daily Driver but i do drive it a couple days a week to work or in town. My commutes are not very far but i want to maintain highway driveability. I am thinking 4.10's for just the front and then when i upgrade front axle to a HP ill do the lockers, 4.88's and 35's. I will probably be at least a year or two until i go to 35's because the 33's i have are basically brand new and I want to see how things go with that setup. That being said if i do end up deciding I need larger tires sooner then ill go ahead and do the push for gears, lockers and the bigger tires. But with the cost i am currently looking to spend lockers arent quite in the budget yet. I am doing engine maintenance right now. and then ill do lift, then body upgrades such as front fenders for more clearance and finally either fix or replace my winch. I havent even begun to troubleshoot it so I dont know what the issue is if there even is one. I do know ill need to order a remote for it and i do want to go to synthetic rope.

The other thing i was thinking about with having 4.10s is then i would have a spare set of gears after upgrading to 4.88s. But for now 4.10s seem like the best option for me.


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post #63 of 609 Old 10-11-2019, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by cpia84 View Post
My Jeep is not a Daily Driver but i do drive it a couple days a week to work or in town. My commutes are not very far but i want to maintain highway driveability. I am thinking 4.10's for just the front and then when i upgrade front axle to a HP ill do the lockers, 4.88's and 35's. I will probably be at least a year or two until i go to 35's because the 33's i have are basically brand new and I want to see how things go with that setup. That being said if i do end up deciding I need larger tires sooner then ill go ahead and do the push for gears, lockers and the bigger tires. But with the cost i am currently looking to spend lockers arent quite in the budget yet. I am doing engine maintenance right now. and then ill do lift, then body upgrades such as front fenders for more clearance and finally either fix or replace my winch. I havent even begun to troubleshoot it so I dont know what the issue is if there even is one. I do know ill need to order a remote for it and i do want to go to synthetic rope.

The other thing i was thinking about with having 4.10s is then i would have a spare set of gears after upgrading to 4.88s. But for now 4.10s seem like the best option for me.
Sounds like a solid plan to me. You might want to sell the 4.10's when you go 4.88 and recoup a little bit of money back. Spare gears sounds great until you add in the cost of having them installed. Now if you are doing the install yourself of the gears absolutly
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post #64 of 609 Old 10-11-2019, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpia84 View Post
Well the good thing is i have a CRT HEI Distributor with new plugs and wires n my garage right now. I plan on installing it Monday when i have the day off after i fix my valve cover gasket. I need to pick up an ignition coil too. But i have ordered stud bolts for the the top of the head so i can put the gasket on and then secure the valve cover with nuts. I have read how to install the CRT HEI but do you have any tips or tricks to ensure a smooth easy install?

Currently i have a Weber 32/36 Carb on the Jeep and it seems to work okay right now. That being said I have looked at the 2150 carb and the 4.3 TBI. I am not sure which way i want to go but im sure ill do one of them in the future. I definitely want the longevity and ease of a smooth running motor.

Can you further explain a free breathing intake, and exhaust? Or suggest parts to get. I have install intakes and exhausts before but i am just not familiar with the free-breathing term.

I will look for a 4.0 head but how difficult is it to do that swap? Im sure it wouldnt be too difficult to find one. What other parts should i be swapping out when i do the head swap?

Thank you for the help and input.

Just make sure you are running a clean air filter, You can do a "cold air intake" Look up BAF or Napa 6637 that is a really awesome filter and easy to build a DIY intake if you want one. Plus if plan on submerging your jeep you can build it to adapt right into a snorkel. And for the exhaust your exhaust piping is not dented up and the bends are not kinked.


I don't suggest this much because they are gimmicky on modern fuel injected vehicles. But Throttle body spacers have potential for carb'ed vehicles and TBI vehicles. They allow the fuel more time to mix with the air for a better fuel mixture. They were a cheap way to make a taller intake without replacing the intake. I don't know how successful they are with 4.2 but since you have the carb or TBI possibly it might be something else worth looking into.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
Sounds like a solid plan to me. You might want to sell the 4.10's when you go 4.88 and recoup a little bit of money back. Spare gears sounds great until you add in the cost of having them installed. Now if you are doing the install yourself of the gears absolutly

I agree sell the 4.10's if you need a back up its just as much labor and time to put 4.88's back in rather than go back to 4.10's

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post #65 of 609 Old 10-11-2019, 04:22 PM
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The HEI has it's own built in coil. really simplifies things under the hood. Easy one wire hookup and tach terminal powers the factory tach just fine.

When using a Motorcraft 2150 or Chebbie 4.3 TBi, you can use a Chebbie air cleaner and intake system. Being in the desert with so much fine dust, I will not run re-usable K&N style air filters. They allow too much dirt into the engine. A quality paper filter (Mopar, AC Delco ect) is what I use. And because I'm 30 minutes from Death Valley, I want the air from outside of the hood. Not under the hood.
My Jeep takes in air behind the drivers side headlight. I don't worry about water ingestion, there is no water here!
No smog here so I custom built my own exhaust. Not many bends, (No cat. Shhhh! Don't tell anyone!) straight into an old school red Cherry Bomb glasspack and then out the back.
That design helps by not heating the underside of my floors much.

One more plus about the Motorcraft. It has an aneroid altitude adjustment built in to help keep the carb from running rich with elevation changes like mountain driving.

"Alferd Packer: “Stand up, you voracious, man-eating son of a *****, stand up! There was seven democrats in Hinsdale County and you up and ate five of them."
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post #66 of 609 Old 10-15-2019, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisnvegas View Post
The HEI has it's own built in coil. really simplifies things under the hood. Easy one wire hookup and tach terminal powers the factory tach just fine.

When using a Motorcraft 2150 or Chebbie 4.3 TBi, you can use a Chebbie air cleaner and intake system. Being in the desert with so much fine dust, I will not run re-usable K&N style air filters. They allow too much dirt into the engine. A quality paper filter (Mopar, AC Delco ect) is what I use. And because I'm 30 minutes from Death Valley, I want the air from outside of the hood. Not under the hood.
My Jeep takes in air behind the drivers side headlight. I don't worry about water ingestion, there is no water here!
No smog here so I custom built my own exhaust. Not many bends, (No cat. Shhhh! Don't tell anyone!) straight into an old school red Cherry Bomb glasspack and then out the back.
That design helps by not heating the underside of my floors much.

One more plus about the Motorcraft. It has an aneroid altitude adjustment built in to help keep the carb from running rich with elevation changes like mountain driving.
Oh that is great that it has a built in ignition coil. I did not get a chance to mess with that yesterday though. I did finish the valve cover replacement. I ended up having to get a cork gasket and then used some RTV to ensure it would all seal up. I am going to try and run it this after noon. I changed the oil. I need to top off coolant and take it for a spin. I really need to clean the underneath of the Jeep to identify any other leaks. I think i might have a transmission leak but im not sure yet. Lots of build up so im think a good degreaser and pressure washing is whats needed.

I would like to do the HEI this week but not sure if ill have the time.


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post #67 of 609 Old 10-18-2019, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
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Radio/Dash Issues

I did some thread searching and I found a thread on how to clean up Dash/Guage connections. Most of my guages in the center sort of work and the clock doesnt work at all. Here is the thread i found: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/...er-how-991307/

My radio hasnt been working for a few months and i thought id mess with it. I started messing with the radio by pulling it out. I saw what looked like a 4 year old had wire spliced in the radio connector using butt connectors, wire nuts and electric tape, and then a few loose wires. Two of the wires were hot and i dont know how. But i pulled the radio and I will trace the wiring. Is there an easy way to get new radio connecter wired in or diagram? I then took the rest of the center dash apart so I can start cleaning up the guages. I also noticed the connectors on the heater control section is broken. I dont really want to replace the heater control because it all works right now. I think im going to use some strong glue, clean it up and then remount it. I have noticed there are a lot of screws missing too so im going to have to add them as well. While im doing this I plan on replacing the bulbs with LEDs. I am also going to be gutting the carpet out from the interior and seeing what it looks like underneath. Ill take some pictures and post them up.


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post #68 of 609 Old 10-18-2019, 10:46 AM
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The Radio should have 2 hot wires, one is when the ignition is turned on the other is a constant for the memory setting.


basic radio diagram should follow Red ignition hot, yellow constant, blue remote. you should have paired colors that go to each speaker. most all basic diagrams are standard from the 90s on.


if they are not on your jeep find your 12vdc ignition wire and 12v dc constant.


The paired wires you can find which speaker they go to really easy by taking a AA battery and putting the wires to the speaker on the + and - of the battery. You will here the speaker pulse.
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95' YJ 4" lift 33"x12.5r15's D30/8.8 locked with 4:88's
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Gen. John J. "Black Jack" Pershing, USA; 12 February 1918

Last edited by Drix; 10-18-2019 at 10:48 AM. Reason: clearification
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post #69 of 609 Old 10-18-2019, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drix View Post
The Radio should have 2 hot wires, one is when the ignition is turned on the other is a constant for the memory setting.


basic radio diagram should follow Red ignition hot, yellow constant, blue remote. you should have paired colors that go to each speaker. most all basic diagrams are standard from the 90s on.


if they are not on your jeep find your 12vdc ignition wire and 12v dc constant.


The paired wires you can find which speaker they go to really easy by taking a AA battery and putting the wires to the speaker on the + and - of the battery. You will here the speaker pulse.
Awesome trick for the speakers. The PO of mine wired the front as the passenger side and the drivers side as the rear I will eventually fix it.
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post #70 of 609 Old 10-21-2019, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drix View Post
The Radio should have 2 hot wires, one is when the ignition is turned on the other is a constant for the memory setting.


basic radio diagram should follow Red ignition hot, yellow constant, blue remote. you should have paired colors that go to each speaker. most all basic diagrams are standard from the 90s on.


if they are not on your jeep find your 12vdc ignition wire and 12v dc constant.


The paired wires you can find which speaker they go to really easy by taking a AA battery and putting the wires to the speaker on the + and - of the battery. You will here the speaker pulse.
Thank you. I will look at that.

This past Friday i pull out all of the old carpet to discover that the interior had been rhino/bedlined before. There are a few spots that need attention but I will get to those shortly. I did leave the carpet over the wheel wells by the rear bench since my kids ride back there from time to time.

I took the rear tire off I think it will be off for a while right now. I am going to need to remove the tire carrier because i just ordered corner guards, rear LED round tail lights, and a nut insert tool for installing my armor and fender flares for easy removal. I did not come up with this idea i saw someone else do it here on the forum but i dont remember who otherwise i would reference them.

I also installed a new and larger rear view mirror and then some CJ style side mirrors. I did some tough ups on the hood to cover up some rust. I plan on getting a large hood vent to help keep things cool in the hot southern summers so the touch up is truly minor mostly just so i could test out my spray cans.

Ive ran the Jeep for a little bit. It runs very well but I havent done the CRT HEI swap yet. Starting this weekend i will have a lot of time to get the parts i have hung and get this prepared for future upgrades.


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post #71 of 609 Old 10-25-2019, 10:00 AM Thread Starter
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White Smoke from the Engine

I drove the jeep the other day to work on my girlfriends house and the Jeep started smoking and coming into the Jeep. I pull over and pop the hood and smoke comes all out of the engine bay. I look closer and it appears to be coming from the exhaust manifold. I thought at first that maybe it was excess oil or fluids that spilled/leaked on the engine before. I drove it the 2 more miles and it started smoking again. I left the hood up to let it air out, it then rained so i had to run out close it up. I probably should have let it keep raining on it to clean off the engine. I brought it home, it smoked again and i left it parked. I pulled it into the driveway yesterday and i started cleaning up the engine with degreaser. I am going to keep doing that this weekend. Do you think that is the only issue that its just burning off the oil residue?

While do this clean up i started spraying the shackles because i think im going to go ahead and do the shackle lift over the next week or so. I took a closer look at my axles and i believe my front axle is a HP DANA 30! How can i comfirm this? I looked at pictures and the R&P is definitely on top instead of below. Should i open up the diff just to make sure? If it is a HP then its time for me to start ordering stuff to build it up and to lock down a Ford 8.8.

I also started cleaning up my guages and connections on the dash. Once i get the engine cleaned up and running well the dash is the next focus so i can have it all cleaned up and back together to include a working radio. I am on the hunt for a decent CB radio, Any suggestions?


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post #72 of 609 Old 10-29-2019, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by cpia84 View Post
I drove the jeep the other day to work on my girlfriends house and the Jeep started smoking and coming into the Jeep. I pull over and pop the hood and smoke comes all out of the engine bay. I look closer and it appears to be coming from the exhaust manifold. I thought at first that maybe it was excess oil or fluids that spilled/leaked on the engine before. I drove it the 2 more miles and it started smoking again. I left the hood up to let it air out, it then rained so i had to run out close it up. I probably should have let it keep raining on it to clean off the engine. I brought it home, it smoked again and i left it parked. I pulled it into the driveway yesterday and i started cleaning up the engine with degreaser. I am going to keep doing that this weekend. Do you think that is the only issue that its just burning off the oil residue?

While do this clean up i started spraying the shackles because i think im going to go ahead and do the shackle lift over the next week or so. I took a closer look at my axles and i believe my front axle is a HP DANA 30! How can i comfirm this? I looked at pictures and the R&P is definitely on top instead of below. Should i open up the diff just to make sure? If it is a HP then its time for me to start ordering stuff to build it up and to lock down a Ford 8.8.

I also started cleaning up my guages and connections on the dash. Once i get the engine cleaned up and running well the dash is the next focus so i can have it all cleaned up and back together to include a working radio. I am on the hunt for a decent CB radio, Any suggestions?

I would be looking for oil leaks. It takes alots of a fluid to keep the exhaust manifold smoking. You could pour oil on it and once its hot it will only smoke for a couple of minutes at best.

As for the HP D30 that is the stock axle that came in our YJ's. If you have the CAD on the passenger side shaft you have the HPD30.

For the CB spend your money on the attenna. I like Firestick very good tunable antenna's. A good antenna makes a cheap CB decent but a great CB is junk with a junk antenna. You can get a good radio for around $50 maybe less.
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post #73 of 609 Old 10-29-2019, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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I would be looking for oil leaks. It takes alots of a fluid to keep the exhaust manifold smoking. You could pour oil on it and once its hot it will only smoke for a couple of minutes at best.

As for the HP D30 that is the stock axle that came in our YJ's. If you have the CAD on the passenger side shaft you have the HPD30.

For the CB spend your money on the attenna. I like Firestick very good tunable antenna's. A good antenna makes a cheap CB decent but a great CB is junk with a junk antenna. You can get a good radio for around $50 maybe less.
I cleaned around all of the seals and nothing was leaking so im not too sure why it is smoking unless there is somethign i missed. I will work on it some more this week.

For some reason i was confused about the D30. I need to figure out what im going to do exactly with the front axle. Right now i know I need to re-gear, get chromoly axles. Locker will happen just not 100% sure when.

I have read here and there about a CAD delete option. What exactly is involved with that?

I have found and bought an Explorer Ford 8.8 from a 1998 with 4.10 gears. I also found a 1999 durango steering box. They are pulling both for me and it will cost me $185 for both.

A tuneable antenna makes a lot of sense. I have my fair share of experience with radios so i understand going that route.


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post #74 of 609 Old 10-29-2019, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by cpia84 View Post
I cleaned around all of the seals and nothing was leaking so im not too sure why it is smoking unless there is somethign i missed. I will work on it some more this week.

For some reason i was confused about the D30. I need to figure out what im going to do exactly with the front axle. Right now i know I need to re-gear, get chromoly axles. Locker will happen just not 100% sure when.

I have read here and there about a CAD delete option. What exactly is involved with that?

I have found and bought an Explorer Ford 8.8 from a 1998 with 4.10 gears. I also found a 1999 durango steering box. They are pulling both for me and it will cost me $185 for both.

A tuneable antenna makes a lot of sense. I have my fair share of experience with radios so i understand going that route.
Personally I would skip the Durango box. It has one less mounting bolt. Your stock box lasted 30 years they are tough as nails.

There are multiple options for CAD delete. If you are getting Chromoly shafts your deleting it because they are one peice. You will need to install a passenger side seal at the diff since its currently at the cad. I beleive its NAPA part number 11800 but I could be wrong a quick search on here will find the part number. For the CAD block off I would take the vacuum motor off the axle and take the fork out of it or just cut it off then put it back on to keep the axle sealed up.
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post #75 of 609 Old 10-29-2019, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
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Personally I would skip the Durango box. It has one less mounting bolt. Your stock box lasted 30 years they are tough as nails.

There are multiple options for CAD delete. If you are getting Chromoly shafts your deleting it because they are one peice. You will need to install a passenger side seal at the diff since its currently at the cad. I beleive its NAPA part number 11800 but I could be wrong a quick search on here will find the part number. For the CAD block off I would take the vacuum motor off the axle and take the fork out of it or just cut it off then put it back on to keep the axle sealed up.
I have had success with the Durango box. It wont go in immediately but ill keep it on the shelf.

I found a few CAD delete kits. They are fairly cheap. What do you recommend for chromoly shafts?

I am buying a house right now with a large 2 car garage so the jeep will go in there and ill do the built up and everything and be ready for the spring.


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