1990 YJ Build Thread, One Question at a time? - Page 4 - JeepForum.com
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post #46 of 609 Old 10-09-2019, 07:38 AM
Siva283
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Originally Posted by cpia84 View Post
I already have a SYE so i am good there. Springs, shocks and extended brake lines is a good start. Thank you.
Yup and ditch the trackbars. If you want to keep the swaybar you will need longer end links but lift springs are stiffer so IMO swapbars arent needed eithier. But doing it this way will be cheaper than a KIT because your not gonna pay for stuff you dont need. Since you already have an SYE you will need to cut and reweld the spring perches or you will need to shim it to get the angle correct for the new height.

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post #47 of 609 Old 10-09-2019, 07:40 AM
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Oh and I would get a drop pitman arm too. They are like $23 on Amazon. I peiced my entire lift together using amazon. 4 4inch RE leaf springs 2 day shipping free was awesome.
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post #48 of 609 Old 10-09-2019, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
Yup and ditch the trackbars. If you want to keep the swaybar you will need longer end links but lift springs are stiffer so IMO swapbars arent needed eithier. But doing it this way will be cheaper than a KIT because your not gonna pay for stuff you dont need. Since you already have an SYE you will need to cut and reweld the spring perches or you will need to shim it to get the angle correct for the new height.
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Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
Oh and I would get a drop pitman arm too. They are like $23 on Amazon. I peiced my entire lift together using amazon. 4 4inch RE leaf springs 2 day shipping free was awesome.

Here is the list of items i have right now:

RE 4" Leaf springs:
https://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Expre...0631755&sr=8-5

Spring bushings:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004IARQ1Y...04_01_t_ttl_lh

Angle Shims:
https://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Expre...motive&sr=1-18

Extended brake lines:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PVLCY7M...ing=UTF8&psc=1

RE Twin-tube shocks: (these say 4.5" will that be an issue with 4" springs? I do have M.O.R.E. Shackles as well to add so would that make up the difference?)
https://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Expre...s%2C409&sr=8-5

drop pitman arm:
https://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Cherokee...omotive&sr=1-3


I am sure ill need more things but i have these items added to my jeep list on Amazon.


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post #49 of 609 Old 10-09-2019, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpia84 View Post
Here is the list of items i have right now:

RE 4" Leaf springs:
https://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Expre...0631755&sr=8-5

Spring bushings:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004IARQ1Y...04_01_t_ttl_lh

Angle Shims:
https://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Expre...motive&sr=1-18

Extended brake lines:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PVLCY7M...ing=UTF8&psc=1

RE Twin-tube shocks: (these say 4.5" will that be an issue with 4" springs? I do have M.O.R.E. Shackles as well to add so would that make up the difference?)
https://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Expre...s%2C409&sr=8-5

drop pitman arm:
https://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Cherokee...omotive&sr=1-3


I am sure ill need more things but i have these items added to my jeep list on Amazon.
Those shocks will be fine especially if your doing one inch shackles since you will be at 5 inches of lift. The shims though. First dont get aluminum. They break trust me I learned the hardway you want steel. However until you get the list on there is no way to know what degree shims you will need. You might need 2 degree shims you might need 6 degree or anywhere in between.
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post #50 of 609 Old 10-09-2019, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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Those shocks will be fine especially if your doing one inch shackles since you will be at 5 inches of lift. The shims though. First dont get aluminum. They break trust me I learned the hardway you want steel. However until you get the list on there is no way to know what degree shims you will need. You might need 2 degree shims you might need 6 degree or anywhere in between.
Okay that makes sense about the shims. Ill be sure to get steel when i get to that point. I guess each jeep is different so there would be no set degree for a particular configuration. You mentioned the other option is to move the perches? since i will be doing a 8.8 swap i should be able to place the perches were needed and shouldnt need shims? Or is there a chance i still might need shims?

I really appreciate all the help with this!


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post #51 of 609 Old 10-09-2019, 11:10 AM
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Okay that makes sense about the shims. Ill be sure to get steel when i get to that point. I guess each jeep is different so there would be no set degree for a particular configuration. You mentioned the other option is to move the perches? since i will be doing a 8.8 swap i should be able to place the perches were needed and shouldnt need shims? Or is there a chance i still might need shims?

I really appreciate all the help with this!
If your doing the 8.8 at the same time then no you wont need shims you just set the pinion angle then weld the perches. I apoligize I thought the 8.8 was in and you had the SYE installed and it was set for your current set up.

So no you do not need shims since you can weld the perches to have the correct angle
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post #52 of 609 Old 10-09-2019, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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If your doing the 8.8 at the same time then no you wont need shims you just set the pinion angle then weld the perches. I apoligize I thought the 8.8 was in and you had the SYE installed and it was set for your current set up.

So no you do not need shims since you can weld the perches to have the correct angle
Okay that is what i was thinking. I plan on doing all of that at the same time. to include gears for the front. 4.88's are the plan. I will look at lockers down the road and chromoly shafts when i go to 35's.

Once i am done helping rebuilt my girlfriend's house then ill have the evenings/weekends again to work on my Jeep and get it ready for next spring.


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post #53 of 609 Old 10-10-2019, 06:00 AM
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Okay that is what i was thinking. I plan on doing all of that at the same time. to include gears for the front. 4.88's are the plan. I will look at lockers down the road and chromoly shafts when i go to 35's.

Once i am done helping rebuilt my girlfriend's house then ill have the evenings/weekends again to work on my Jeep and get it ready for next spring.
If your planing on lockers I would wait to regear until you install the lockers. Other wise your paying for a regear twice or setting up gears twice. After installing and regearing my axes this past spring can tell you its not enjoyable to do nor is it cheap if you pay to have it done. 4.88's are also very deep for the 6 cylinder on anything under 35's if you have the 2.5 4.88 is great for 33's so you might want to wait for the regear
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post #54 of 609 Old 10-10-2019, 07:54 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
If your planing on lockers I would wait to regear until you install the lockers. Other wise your paying for a regear twice or setting up gears twice. After installing and regearing my axes this past spring can tell you its not enjoyable to do nor is it cheap if you pay to have it done. 4.88's are also very deep for the 6 cylinder on anything under 35's if you have the 2.5 4.88 is great for 33's so you might want to wait for the regear
I was thinking that it would be a pain. I know i will have to regear the front axle no matter what. If i can ensure i get a 4.10 in the ford 8.8 will that be fine with 33's for my 4.2L? If they are then i will regear the front to 4.10s and then when i get a Dana 30HP Ill build it up with 4.88s, locker, Truss, chromoly axles and then ill do the regear of the 8.8 when that is all done. But i want a capable wheeling Jeep for the spring.


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post #55 of 609 Old 10-10-2019, 09:32 AM
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I was thinking that it would be a pain. I know i will have to regear the front axle no matter what. If i can ensure i get a 4.10 in the ford 8.8 will that be fine with 33's for my 4.2L? If they are then i will regear the front to 4.10s and then when i get a Dana 30HP Ill build it up with 4.88s, locker, Truss, chromoly axles and then ill do the regear of the 8.8 when that is all done. But i want a capable wheeling Jeep for the spring.
I have the 4.0 and I am running 4.10's and 33's and I love it its perfect.
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post #56 of 609 Old 10-10-2019, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by cpia84 View Post
I was thinking that it would be a pain. I know i will have to regear the front axle no matter what. If i can ensure i get a 4.10 in the ford 8.8 will that be fine with 33's for my 4.2L? If they are then i will regear the front to 4.10s and then when i get a Dana 30HP Ill build it up with 4.88s, locker, Truss, chromoly axles and then ill do the regear of the 8.8 when that is all done. But i want a capable wheeling Jeep for the spring.



The 4.2 is not far off from the 2.5 in HP when I was running 4.10's and 33's you could tell it was quite a bit under geared. 4.88s and 33's was very nice and was well over geared, 35's I'm a little under geared now but not much.


Off road you don't need to work to much about the the gearing since you are gonna get lower gears when you engage your transfer case. I will tell you 4.88's are the way to go. A friend of mine geared to 4.56's in his YJ with the 4.0 and he wished he went 4.88's after a while, especially after he was running 37's.

95' YJ 4" lift 33"x12.5r15's D30/8.8 locked with 4:88's
USMC Jeep Club #6
"Why in hell can't the Army do it if the Marines can. They are the same kind of men; why can't they be like Marines."
Gen. John J. "Black Jack" Pershing, USA; 12 February 1918
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post #57 of 609 Old 10-10-2019, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
I have the 4.0 and I am running 4.10's and 33's and I love it its perfect.
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The 4.2 is not far off from the 2.5 in HP when I was running 4.10's and 33's you could tell it was quite a bit under geared. 4.88s and 33's was very nice and was well over geared, 35's I'm a little under geared now but not much.


Off road you don't need to work to much about the the gearing since you are gonna get lower gears when you engage your transfer case. I will tell you 4.88's are the way to go. A friend of mine geared to 4.56's in his YJ with the 4.0 and he wished he went 4.88's after a while, especially after he was running 37's.

I am thinking for now since i am not locking the axles yet that i will go with just a 4.10 re-gear as long as i get a Ford 8.8 with 4.10's.

Are there any realistic options for added HP for the 4.2? I am not sure im ready to do an engine swap any time soon.


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post #58 of 609 Old 10-10-2019, 10:25 AM
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4.0 heads is the only thing I can think of for the 4.2 and switch to a TBI system.

95' YJ 4" lift 33"x12.5r15's D30/8.8 locked with 4:88's
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post #59 of 609 Old 10-10-2019, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by cpia84 View Post
I am thinking for now since i am not locking the axles yet that i will go with just a 4.10 re-gear as long as i get a Ford 8.8 with 4.10's.

Are there any realistic options for added HP for the 4.2? I am not sure im ready to do an engine swap any time soon.
Personally I think 4.10 would be good for the 4.2 on paper since you have the torque for them. Horsepower is only part of the picture. Remember Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall torque is how far you take it with you. But I dont have the 4.2 so I can speak from experience. You may want to set up a poll and see what others think since what is great to one is horrible to another and vicaversa.

As far as more power as @Drix said theres the 4.0 head swap and there is also the Howell or Mopar fuel injection and I believe there is a write up on adding a chevy 4.3 TBI to your existing set up which would also get you more power.

If I was doing this I would go for the end plan. If 35's are happening in the next year or so go with 4.88 if its gonna be longer you need to decide your cost/benifit. Also how much driving do you do? Highway vs. City. There is alot of factors to give you a good answer. When I first went 4.10's I was on 31's I had tons of go power but ran out of power quickly on the highway and my RPM's were pretty high even by my standards and I dont have a problem revving the hell out of it. I also currently DD mine 60 miles each way to work. If it was my second vehicle just for fun I would have been ok with the extra RPM's I can tell you when I had the 31's In 4low at an idle in first she would climb a tree. I might go 35's in the near future and I think I will still be relatively happy with the 4.10's.

Its all about what you like though and your situation/Driving habits and conditions.
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post #60 of 609 Old 10-10-2019, 03:53 PM
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A CRT HEI wakes up the 4.2
Add a Motorcraft 2150 and a free breathing intake and exhaust and the 4.2 is close to a 4.0.
Add a 4.0 head and the 4.2 will pass a 4.0
The TBI doesn't really add much power over a well set up 2150 but overall will run so much better and smoother.

I have done those mods, one at a time on a fresh rebuilt 4.2 and during the test drive, the biggest seat-of-the pants was the HEI.
It went from being sluggish but torquey to quickly revving to the redline and chirping tires.
Something about the original Duraspark makes the 4.2 sluggish over 2800 to 3000 rpm. The HEI unleashed the engine's higher RPM tendency without losing anything down low.

Even without the better breathing 4.0 head, the 4.2 becomes very acceptable with a CRT brand HEI (and appropriate new plug wires) plugs gaped to .045 instead of .035 (copper plugs only)

Next, depending on wallet, either a TBI or a Motorcraft 2150 with 1.08 venturi and appropriate power valve and jets for your elevation.

A free breathing cold air intake that draws air from outside, not underhood.

A free breathing exhaust.

^^^

Follow that recipe and if your 4.2 is healthy to begin with, you'll grin during the test drive.


A year later, I got ahold of a TBI from a 90's S10 Blazer. Not sure if it gained power over the carb, but it ran smoother and better in every way. It actually took on a characteristics of a Chevy 4.3!

5 years later, it's still in the garage running trouble-free.
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