1990 YJ Build Thread, One Question at a time? - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 609 Old 09-30-2019, 01:08 PM
Siva283
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Originally Posted by cpia84 View Post
Well it has been a while since i have posted anything and i dont have much to update on. It was been very busy with school start, family emergencies, trips, and a tree falling on the house that we just flipped last summer. Needless to say not much time to do much of anything to my jeep.

I have taken the rear stock fender flares off. I havent ordered front fender's yet but I will shortly. Right now i am trying to lock down the right rear axle. I immediately bog down if i try to shift into 5th gear on the highway. I mostly just drive in 4th. Also when the transmission gets too hot it is very rough in 1st gear. Ive done a few 30-45min trips and when doing into driving it shakes like a dog that just took a bath but once im in 2nd it stops. I am sure the trans will need a rebuild one day or just swapped but i need to do baby steps.

Once i have found the rear axle i want to do a fresh lift. I have gone back and forth between SOA and SUA. I am still not sure which why i want to go. I have been trying to find good lift kits for either option i decide to go with. From what i understand with a SOA i basically use stock springs and upgrade the shocks and since im going ontop of the axle i get 4-6" of lift. If i decide to go with SUA i am think 4" lift will be about perfect for me. I guess right now i will take any input on lifts that are recommended as well as pros/cons to either option. I do plan on wheeling the jeep but i also want to maintain some streetability to include highway driving.

As always thank you for any and all input received.

There is no good SOA lift as its neither cheap nor easy. You have to reweld new spring perches on and extend brake lines and the e-brake cable. You need to address steering and no a drop pitman arm isnt addressing it. You need a traction/Ladder bar. Etc Etc then I am assuming you are looking to run 35's which means regearing to 4.88 the deepest gears you can put in a D30 and with the 2.5 you need all the gear you can get. For 33's on the little 4 cylinder that could you want 4.88 for 35's you want atleast 5.13 which you cant put in the D30.

Not to be an *** but from the way you talk I dont think your skill level is there for SOA yet.

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post #32 of 609 Old 09-30-2019, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by bruinjeeper View Post
Still no idea why they didnt implement the two piece rear main seal on the 2.5's.

Jesus

I would assume its because they wanted to get back at people for buying that small engine in a jeep. I used to love my 4 Angry Squirrels. I had 3 jeeps with it and always thought it was adequate. Now I have a 4.0 and I would never go back. Even the 4.0 seems to be lacking a little when it comes to power.
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post #33 of 609 Old 09-30-2019, 01:11 PM
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Oops

Last edited by Siva283; 09-30-2019 at 01:15 PM. Reason: Was thinking he had a different engine
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post #34 of 609 Old 09-30-2019, 01:25 PM
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I'm late to your thread.
The Jeep straps have been a constant problem for me so I converted mine to the Ford F150 straps. It requires that you drill the threads out of the pinyon. Jeep straps suck. They eventually stretch and are tough to get the right tightness.

The F150 straps are available at the "Help" section at the parts store. The strap and bolt are molded the same and have a nut that goes on at the rear side of the pinyon. They fit like a glove and are WAY stronger than stock. Does not require modification to the U-joint, just drill out the threads in the pinyon.

Help # 81004 Ujoint strap kit. You'll need two. I used blue locktight.

"Alferd Packer: “Stand up, you voracious, man-eating son of a *****, stand up! There was seven democrats in Hinsdale County and you up and ate five of them."
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post #35 of 609 Old 10-01-2019, 07:40 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
There is no good SOA lift as its neither cheap nor easy. You have to reweld new spring perches on and extend brake lines and the e-brake cable. You need to address steering and no a drop pitman arm isnt addressing it. You need a traction/Ladder bar. Etc Etc then I am assuming you are looking to run 35's which means regearing to 4.88 the deepest gears you can put in a D30 and with the 2.5 you need all the gear you can get. For 33's on the little 4 cylinder that could you want 4.88 for 35's you want atleast 5.13 which you cant put in the D30.

Not to be an *** but from the way you talk I dont think your skill level is there for SOA yet.
Thank you for your reply.

I have a 4.2L not the 2.5. I do plan on going to 35"s. I am well aware that new perches and extended brake lines are needed. I am already going to do a rear axle swap, and i do plan on doing a front axle swap if i find the right axle. Ideally id like to do D44s for front and rear as long as i get a HP for the front. Otherwise ill do a HP-D30 and a Ford 8.8 for the rear. I also plan on regearing to 4.88's.

I am just seeing what the best options are for springs and shock when doing a SOA.


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post #36 of 609 Old 10-01-2019, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisnvegas View Post
I'm late to your thread.
The Jeep straps have been a constant problem for me so I converted mine to the Ford F150 straps. It requires that you drill the threads out of the pinyon. Jeep straps suck. They eventually stretch and are tough to get the right tightness.

The F150 straps are available at the "Help" section at the parts store. The strap and bolt are molded the same and have a nut that goes on at the rear side of the pinyon. They fit like a glove and are WAY stronger than stock. Does not require modification to the U-joint, just drill out the threads in the pinyon.

Help # 81004 Ujoint strap kit. You'll need two. I used blue locktight.
Thank you. Currently everything is running well but I have added the f150 straps to my bookmarks now and if/when i need to replace ujoints ill just swap to the f150 ones. I know as i upgrade things i will definitetly need more strength than stock setups.

I appreciate all the little bits of advice.
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post #37 of 609 Old 10-03-2019, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by cpia84 View Post
Thank you for your reply.

I have a 4.2L not the 2.5. I do plan on going to 35"s. I am well aware that new perches and extended brake lines are needed. I am already going to do a rear axle swap, and i do plan on doing a front axle swap if i find the right axle. Ideally id like to do D44s for front and rear as long as i get a HP for the front. Otherwise ill do a HP-D30 and a Ford 8.8 for the rear. I also plan on regearing to 4.88's.

I am just seeing what the best options are for springs and shock when doing a SOA.
The 8.8 is stronger than a D44 and the front D44 isnt really any stronger than the D30 since the only difference is the center section. The outters are the same. Atleast in a Jeep D44

The big take away from that should have been steering. A drop pitman arm will not address steering safely in an SOA configuration
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post #38 of 609 Old 10-03-2019, 07:50 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
The 8.8 is stronger than a D44 and the front D44 isnt really any stronger than the D30 since the only difference is the center section. The outters are the same. Atleast in a Jeep D44

The big take away from that should have been steering. A drop pitman arm will not address steering safely in an SOA configuration
I have talked to the local Yard and i can get a ford 8.8 for about $150-$200. I will have to ask about a HP D30 then if there is no real big advantage swapping in a D44. As far as the steering i have read to use a ZJ drop pitman arm and then a trac-bar relocation bracket. However from what i am gathering from you it seems i should just stick with an SUA and do a spring lift. With that being said what is a decent set of springs and then shocks to get. I understand that most of the time there is no "perfect" kit so if you recommend buying springs from one location and shocks from another I am all ears. I am almost done with the house project I am on and then the Jeep will be down while i do a lift and axle(s) swap. Ill also be sure to address any other issues to come up.

Thank you for your help with this. I know im a noob and seem to miss some of the points from time to time.


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post #39 of 609 Old 10-03-2019, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by cpia84 View Post
I have talked to the local Yard and i can get a ford 8.8 for about $150-$200. I will have to ask about a HP D30 then if there is no real big advantage swapping in a D44. As far as the steering i have read to use a ZJ drop pitman arm and then a trac-bar relocation bracket. However from what i am gathering from you it seems i should just stick with an SUA and do a spring lift. With that being said what is a decent set of springs and then shocks to get. I understand that most of the time there is no "perfect" kit so if you recommend buying springs from one location and shocks from another I am all ears. I am almost done with the house project I am on and then the Jeep will be down while i do a lift and axle(s) swap. Ill also be sure to address any other issues to come up.

Thank you for your help with this. I know im a noob and seem to miss some of the points from time to time.
You dont need track bars with leaf springs. And no a drop pitman arm is not enough for SOA. You really need crossover or an over the knuckle set up to do it right. A ford or chevy D44 would be stronger than a D30 since they have larger outters. But unless you are planning to go over 35's and locking it throw some chromoly shafts in it and enjoy. A D30 is good for 35's locked. If your planning on going bigger than that you would be better to look at 1 ton axles.

As far as springs and shocks. Rubicon Express makes a Spring Over Spring with reverse eyes. I dont think I have heard anyone complain about them. Shocks will vary depending on who you talk to. Fox or Bilstiens seem to be the favorites but they are $$$$
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post #40 of 609 Old 10-03-2019, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
You dont need track bars with leaf springs. And no a drop pitman arm is not enough for SOA. You really need crossover or an over the knuckle set up to do it right. A ford or chevy D44 would be stronger than a D30 since they have larger outters. But unless you are planning to go over 35's and locking it throw some chromoly shafts in it and enjoy. A D30 is good for 35's locked. If your planning on going bigger than that you would be better to look at 1 ton axles.

As far as springs and shocks. Rubicon Express makes a Spring Over Spring with reverse eyes. I dont think I have heard anyone complain about them. Shocks will vary depending on who you talk to. Fox or Bilstiens seem to be the favorites but they are $$$$
I have a set of M.O.R.E. shackles that i was going to toss on my jeep but am waiting until i figure out what suspension i am going with. 35's is the plan. I would like to lock the front and rear. I had looked at 1 tons but im not sure ill be that hardcore with this build. Maybe the next one or later down the road. I have heard so many mixed things about the track bar. Majority do say i would not need it for the front.

Here is what i was looking at for a lift,

Shocks:
https://www.quadratec.com/products/16070_204_14.htm
https://www.quadratec.com/products/16070_205_14.htm

Springs:
https://www.quadratec.com/products/16311_5002.htm
https://www.quadratec.com/products/16311_5230.htm And i would need U-Bolts for the ford 8.8 axle or do you have recommended u-bolts?

I know more will be needed but is this a good start? or should i buy a complete kit?


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post #41 of 609 Old 10-04-2019, 05:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpia84 View Post
I have a set of M.O.R.E. shackles that i was going to toss on my jeep but am waiting until i figure out what suspension i am going with. 35's is the plan. I would like to lock the front and rear. I had looked at 1 tons but im not sure ill be that hardcore with this build. Maybe the next one or later down the road. I have heard so many mixed things about the track bar. Majority do say i would not need it for the front.

Here is what i was looking at for a lift,

Shocks:
https://www.quadratec.com/products/16070_204_14.htm
https://www.quadratec.com/products/16070_205_14.htm

Springs:
https://www.quadratec.com/products/16311_5002.htm
https://www.quadratec.com/products/16311_5230.htm And i would need U-Bolts for the ford 8.8 axle or do you have recommended u-bolts?

I know more will be needed but is this a good start? or should i buy a complete kit?
Your on the right path. Quadratec is usually one of the more expensive places. I have those RE 4 inch springs. I can tell you I liked my BDS ones way way way way better. The RE flex as good as BDS but the BDS gave a far superior on road ride. Also the RE twintube shocks are actually Bilstein 5100's but much cheaper. You can also contact @Kolac on here he is a dealer for all the stuff your looking at and I beleive his gives discounts here on the forum. He is also extremely knowledgable and will get you with the best stuff for what you want for probably the best price.

If your only going locked on 35's save alot of money and headaches and just put chromoly shafts in the D30. I am locked on 33's I am gonna go to 35's. I still have stock shafts. If/When one breaks I will go chromoly and call it good. I suggest selectable lockers front and rear. I have a selectable Auburn Ected in the back. Its LSD when its off and locked when I hit the button. I love that locker. I have a lunchbox locker up front and so far I hate it. I even have a posi lock since I drive in snow and ice. However it acts like a spool. It will be getting swapped out for a selectable soon. I think I am gonna go with an OX locker up front.
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post #42 of 609 Old 10-07-2019, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
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I finally had a chance to work on my Jeep. Last week it left me stranded and i had to tow it back home. I did some quick troubleshooting and i wasnt getting fuel to the carb. I grabbed a fuel filter and fuel pump from the parts store. I went ahead and replace the fuel filter first, tightened everything up. Went to start it and it fired up. I did not change the fuel pump since it was running well.

Later in the evening i started with the valve cover gasket. I ordered a fel pro one from rockauto which is where is usally get my parts from. I cleaned everything up, and put the new gasket down to make sure it lined up. and then started putting the cover on. I started with the first bolt and it was a pain in the *** to get going. I went to the next bolt and had the same issue. I then took the bolts out and looked at the gasket. There are metal rings/washers for the holes. Well i tried to be gentle and ended up breaking off the metal ring. My buddy was over and he looked at it and hadnt seen that before. I called the parts store and returned the fuel pump and got a new gasket. Its built the same way. I am confused as to why the bolts/studs will not go through thw holes on the gasket. Any and all recommendations will be greatly appreciated.


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post #43 of 609 Old 10-08-2019, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
Your on the right path. Quadratec is usually one of the more expensive places. I have those RE 4 inch springs. I can tell you I liked my BDS ones way way way way better. The RE flex as good as BDS but the BDS gave a far superior on road ride. Also the RE twintube shocks are actually Bilstein 5100's but much cheaper. You can also contact @Kolac on here he is a dealer for all the stuff your looking at and I beleive his gives discounts here on the forum. He is also extremely knowledgable and will get you with the best stuff for what you want for probably the best price.

If your only going locked on 35's save alot of money and headaches and just put chromoly shafts in the D30. I am locked on 33's I am gonna go to 35's. I still have stock shafts. If/When one breaks I will go chromoly and call it good. I suggest selectable lockers front and rear. I have a selectable Auburn Ected in the back. Its LSD when its off and locked when I hit the button. I love that locker. I have a lunchbox locker up front and so far I hate it. I even have a posi lock since I drive in snow and ice. However it acts like a spool. It will be getting swapped out for a selectable soon. I think I am gonna go with an OX locker up front.
Here are a few lift kits ive been looking at. I tried to find Kolac but i couldnt find his name but im sure i screwed up the search.

Rubicon Express 4" Lift kit w/shocks
https://www.extremeterrain.com/rubic...t-yj-5515.html

Rugged Ridge 4" w/ shocks (i cant find much info about quality og this kit)
https://www.extremeterrain.com/rugge...j-1841525.html

Rubicon Express 4.5" Extreme Duty w/shocks
https://www.extremeterrain.com/rubic...t-8795-yj.html

What are the big advantage or differences between the 4" and 4.5" extreme duty RE Kits? Has anyone heard about the Ruged Ridge Kit before?


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post #44 of 609 Old 10-08-2019, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by cpia84 View Post
Here are a few lift kits ive been looking at. I tried to find Kolac but i couldnt find his name but im sure i screwed up the search.

Rubicon Express 4" Lift kit w/shocks
https://www.extremeterrain.com/rubic...t-yj-5515.html

Rugged Ridge 4" w/ shocks (i cant find much info about quality og this kit)
https://www.extremeterrain.com/rugge...j-1841525.html

Rubicon Express 4.5" Extreme Duty w/shocks
https://www.extremeterrain.com/rubic...t-8795-yj.html

What are the big advantage or differences between the 4" and 4.5" extreme duty RE Kits? Has anyone heard about the Ruged Ridge Kit before?

I would avoid the rugged ridge. I have RE springs now they flex great however I am not to impressed with the on road ride. I will b going back to BDS soon. I would avoid a kit your buying stuff you dont need. I would get springs shocks and extended brake lines and go from there. With a 4 inch lift you NEED and SYE. The transfercase drop isnt gonna get the job done. So to start you need springs shock brake lines SYE and rear driveshaft. You can ditch the track bars. You can ditch the sway bar if you want to as well. I and many others dont run one. SOme run a sway bar 99% agree track bars hinder and make things worse. They bind your suspnsion.
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post #45 of 609 Old 10-08-2019, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
I would avoid the rugged ridge. I have RE springs now they flex great however I am not to impressed with the on road ride. I will b going back to BDS soon. I would avoid a kit your buying stuff you dont need. I would get springs shocks and extended brake lines and go from there. With a 4 inch lift you NEED and SYE. The transfercase drop isnt gonna get the job done. So to start you need springs shock brake lines SYE and rear driveshaft. You can ditch the track bars. You can ditch the sway bar if you want to as well. I and many others dont run one. SOme run a sway bar 99% agree track bars hinder and make things worse. They bind your suspnsion.
I already have a SYE so i am good there. Springs, shocks and extended brake lines is a good start. Thank you.


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