1990 YJ Build Thread, One Question at a time? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 609 Old 07-25-2019, 07:03 AM Thread Starter
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Update

First off thank you to everyone that has been giving me help and information.

I put the Jeep on Jackstands last night and took the wheels off. I am bringing the 33's with me and the wheels to a local shop to have them swapped over. I am ordering a rebuilt kit for the carb, a valve cover gasket, spark plugs and oil pan gasket from Rockauto. Then i am getting the CRT Team Rush upgrade and a HEI distrubor from eBay. And i also ordering new lug nuts because when taking the wheels off last night they arent all the same size, the threads are all 1/2x20 but they are 19mm and 21mm lugs. so im ordering a whole new set. Hopefully once all these parts come in Ill be done with the master bathroom.

I need to decide if i am going to get the 79 ford rear dana 44 that is built or the front and rear wagoneer dana 44s that would need to be built. the price is the same the work load between the two is quiet different. Im leaning towards the built d44 and then look for a HP D30/44 or just keep the D30 i have and just regear it and upgrade the brakes and put a new diff cover on it.

I am bad about taking pictures but ill try to get some and post them of the progress on the Jeep.



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post #17 of 609 Old 07-25-2019, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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i got the 33s swapped over on my lunch break. ill get them on the jeep tonight and post pictures. i should have new lugs this weekend but ill use the old ones for now.


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post #18 of 609 Old 07-25-2019, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toastmaster View Post
Here's the link to JeepHammer's post on the ignition upgrades, lots of info here : https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/i...nitive-669495/

You can pickup the parts individually, or CRT makes a kit you can buy for a little more $$ - https://crtperformance.com/shop?olsP...48k-powerboost

A HEI distributor is also an option, but for me - following Jeephammer's guide with new wires, rotor, and bigger cap + an MSD has really got things running smoothly. I left the stock motorcraft ignition module in the jeep too, and it's easy to switch between the MSD box and the stock box in case of failure.
Did you do the Nutter Bypass? I am looking at rebuilding the BBD Carb and was wondering if i should do that first then the Nutter Bypass then the Team Rush upgrade. I did order the HEI Distributor as well.

Also which MSD box did you go with. I like that idea. I will keep the stock module in as well.

Did you have a lot of idling issues when the Jeep was cold prior to doing these upgrades? Mine usually takes a few times to get going and keep running.


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post #19 of 609 Old 07-25-2019, 10:09 PM
Mechman71
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While you're getting your hands oily, it might not be a bad idea to consider dropping in a new timing chain. I've used Cloyes chains in the past and have been very happy with the results. 258's seem to chew through sprockets and chains every 150k miles or so. I think it's because they make all that fun torque down low in the power band, and the stock units can take it for just so long (like 25-30 years or so LOL). There's a good chance yours is due, too.


Poor idle can have many root causes, from clogged idle tubes, old plugs, a beat timing chain, worn distributor, tired coil, even a worn bearing in the water pump. Sometimes swapping in new parts makes an incremental improvement in your idle. Start with the obvious and maintenance level repairs, then move on to the more exotic possibilities. You'll get there!

'89 YJ "Night Eagle" 4.2 5spd, Spinnaker blue/grey, hard top and doors, mostly stock and RUST FREE!!
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post #20 of 609 Old 07-26-2019, 07:04 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mechman71 View Post
While you're getting your hands oily, it might not be a bad idea to consider dropping in a new timing chain. I've used Cloyes chains in the past and have been very happy with the results. 258's seem to chew through sprockets and chains every 150k miles or so. I think it's because they make all that fun torque down low in the power band, and the stock units can take it for just so long (like 25-30 years or so LOL). There's a good chance yours is due, too.


Poor idle can have many root causes, from clogged idle tubes, old plugs, a beat timing chain, worn distributor, tired coil, even a worn bearing in the water pump. Sometimes swapping in new parts makes an incremental improvement in your idle. Start with the obvious and maintenance level repairs, then move on to the more exotic possibilities. You'll get there!
Good idea. I hadnt even thought about timing chain but there is 143k on the odometer and im sure the time chain hasnt been addressed in the past. I'll do my research to find the right chain. Is there anything i need to be aware of when doing the timing chain or is it pretty straight forward?

Basic maintenance is my priority and that is why i ordered all of that maintenance parts. I havent looked at the cooling system yet. I havent ran the Jeep longer than 20mins yet so ill have to see if i have any issues with it on longer trips. I am sure ill do a radiator upgrade and cooling system overhaul one day. I also dont really trust any of the guages in the jeep but i havent seen the Jeep get above 190* from what ive observed. The temp and fuel sensors bounce around a lot. I do plan on dropping the fuel tank and checking the fuel sending unit. I know they can be an issue especially since the jeep is 29+ years old. Like ive said it is a work in progress and lots to do.

Also i drove the jeep today and the 33's rub just slightly. i still have a shackle lift i need to throw on there so ill do that. I will probably take the plastic fenders off if needed. I do plan on doing flat fenders for the front and rear anyways. that just may happen sooner than later.


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post #21 of 609 Old 07-26-2019, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpia84 View Post
Good idea. I hadnt even thought about timing chain but there is 143k on the odometer and im sure the time chain hasnt been addressed in the past. I'll do my research to find the right chain. Is there anything i need to be aware of when doing the timing chain or is it pretty straight forward?

Basic maintenance is my priority and that is why i ordered all of that maintenance parts. I havent looked at the cooling system yet. I havent ran the Jeep longer than 20mins yet so ill have to see if i have any issues with it on longer trips. I am sure ill do a radiator upgrade and cooling system overhaul one day. I also dont really trust any of the guages in the jeep but i havent seen the Jeep get above 190* from what ive observed. The temp and fuel sensors bounce around a lot. I do plan on dropping the fuel tank and checking the fuel sending unit. I know they can be an issue especially since the jeep is 29+ years old. Like ive said it is a work in progress and lots to do.

Also i drove the jeep today and the 33's rub just slightly. i still have a shackle lift i need to throw on there so ill do that. I will probably take the plastic fenders off if needed. I do plan on doing flat fenders for the front and rear anyways. that just may happen sooner than later.

Timing chain replacement is very straightforward, just read up on the procedure in the FSM so that you have your marks lined up and torque values ready to dial in. There's a chain guide that is supposed to be set into the edge of the cover as well (yours may be missing and some were left out by the factory for whatever reason), make sure you grab a new one too. Otherwise, the 258 block is about the same as your average vintage farm tractor's engine for complexity.


The water pump bearing is super easy to test. With the engine off, grab a blade on your fan and move it toward the radiator then back toward the block, watching the pulley. If you have any motion that's not radial in nature, put a water pump on your list. They're very cheap, I think my last one from NAPA was around $15 after tax.


A poorly functioning gas gauge as well as rather low oil pressure when hot are both common issues with our old 258-equipped Jeeps. The senders for the 15 gallon tank were still available the last time I checked (last March), but I haven't been able to find a new sender for the 20 gallon tank (what I have). But I can say that my temp gauge goes to 210 and stays there, rarely getting even a tick higher. I have a stock type replacement brass radiator and I've replaced everything in the cooling system save for the heater core (I had that pressure tested and cleaned by a radiator shop). Your ignition timing and fuel mixture ratio can have a seriously negative effect on cooling too, so keep that in mind as you replace stuff.

'89 YJ "Night Eagle" 4.2 5spd, Spinnaker blue/grey, hard top and doors, mostly stock and RUST FREE!!
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post #22 of 609 Old 07-30-2019, 08:35 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechman71 View Post
Timing chain replacement is very straightforward, just read up on the procedure in the FSM so that you have your marks lined up and torque values ready to dial in. There's a chain guide that is supposed to be set into the edge of the cover as well (yours may be missing and some were left out by the factory for whatever reason), make sure you grab a new one too. Otherwise, the 258 block is about the same as your average vintage farm tractor's engine for complexity.


The water pump bearing is super easy to test. With the engine off, grab a blade on your fan and move it toward the radiator then back toward the block, watching the pulley. If you have any motion that's not radial in nature, put a water pump on your list. They're very cheap, I think my last one from NAPA was around $15 after tax.


A poorly functioning gas gauge as well as rather low oil pressure when hot are both common issues with our old 258-equipped Jeeps. The senders for the 15 gallon tank were still available the last time I checked (last March), but I haven't been able to find a new sender for the 20 gallon tank (what I have). But I can say that my temp gauge goes to 210 and stays there, rarely getting even a tick higher. I have a stock type replacement brass radiator and I've replaced everything in the cooling system save for the heater core (I had that pressure tested and cleaned by a radiator shop). Your ignition timing and fuel mixture ratio can have a seriously negative effect on cooling too, so keep that in mind as you replace stuff.
Thanks again for the info. I am sure the water pump is bad or should be replaced or will need to be soon. im at the point where im just stock piling parts to when i can take a weekend and do all of this maintenance. Ill add a water pump, temp sensor to my list. A temperature guage is on my radar too right now. It hasnt gotten about 190 and i find that very odd considering the previous jeeps ive had granted they were 4.0Ls were almost always around the 205-210 mark. Im going to check the resistance and make sure the connections are good.

I did find a fuel sending unit for the 20gal tank on Quadratec. I put the link below. Does it seem like a good choice?
https://www.quadratec.com/products/55107_0100.htm

I have been driving the Jeep almost daily now for the past week. Other than it taking a minute to level off when i start it in the morning the jeep has been doing pretty good. I found a set a rear fender flares on eBay for a decent price. They are the Smittybilt XRC 3" flares. I am looking for a set for the front. I do have some slight rubbing on the front lower corner right now and the new fenders would fix that right away.

The bathroom im working on is almost done and should be finished by wednesday. I need to do some maintenance on my jetski then ill be putting the Jeep on stands and doing as much maintence as i can.

I wont be doing anything to it at all next week because my girlfriend and the 5 kids between us are all going to Disney World for a week! May God have mercy on our souls!


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post #23 of 609 Old 07-31-2019, 06:41 AM
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You promised a photo on 33s.

Come on now.

~YJOTM MAY '16, JULY '19~


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post #24 of 609 Old 07-31-2019, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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As requested and as promised. Pictures of my jeep on 33's. There is some rubbing but that will be fixed shortly.

img-8349.jpg

img-8350.jpg

img-8351.jpg


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post #25 of 609 Old 07-31-2019, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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i have no idea why the pictures are sideways and i dont know how to fix it. Any guidance will be greatly appreciated.


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post #26 of 609 Old 07-31-2019, 11:55 AM
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You should do your rear main while your doing the oil pan gasket. Drop the pan pull the back Main Bear cap off. THe bottom of the seal pops out of the bearing cap and the top you push out. No need to pull the transmission.
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post #27 of 609 Old 07-31-2019, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
You should do your rear main while your doing the oil pan gasket. Drop the pan pull the back Main Bear cap off. THe bottom of the seal pops out of the bearing cap and the top you push out. No need to pull the transmission.
Still no idea why they didnt implement the two piece rear main seal on the 2.5's.

Jesus

~YJOTM MAY '16, JULY '19~


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post #28 of 609 Old 07-31-2019, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
You should do your rear main while your doing the oil pan gasket. Drop the pan pull the back Main Bear cap off. THe bottom of the seal pops out of the bearing cap and the top you push out. No need to pull the transmission.

I looked up the RMS and i see it is the two piece style. Ill pick one up when im ready to do it. Im doing the valve cover this weekend and probably the HEI distributor and a tune up. I need to address some vacuum lines and check the transfer case linkage issue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bruinjeeper View Post
Still no idea why they didnt implement the two piece rear main seal on the 2.5's.

Jesus
That sucks that they dont do that. Did they switch to a two piece in the later version?


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post #29 of 609 Old 08-16-2019, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
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Lots of Parts

I have been ordering and stocking up on a lot of parts. I am not sure when I'll get time to put parts on but I'm sure that will find time. I have been doing my best to drive the Jeep a few times a
week. The jeep wouldnt start for me after dinner one evening this week. I let it sit for about 5-10mins after calling my girlfriend to pick me up and the Jeep fired right up. I am thinking that i will need to do a rebuild/tuning of my carb.

Here is a list of the parts I have so far or have ordered and they are on the way:
-Valve cover gasket/new valve cover bolts
-HEI Distributor w/plugs and wires
-LED Headlights
-(4) LED Offroad lights
-Mirror Relocation mounts and mirrors (driver side installed)
-Smittybilt XRC Rear Flares (old rear flares have been removed)
-new turn signal lever
-new rear view mirror and mount
-new door handles/locks/window crank handles/door grab handles (most installed on driver side door)
-Front and rear bumper D-rings (installed)
-M.O.R.E. 1" bommerang shackle kit
-Transfer case fluid


Parts i need to order or go to the part store:
-Front fender flares. (Metalcloak or Matching Smittybilt, just will need to save the inner fender to keep things mounted)
-Rear Corner guards
-Rocker Rails/Steps
-timing chain kit
-carb rebuilt kit (Weber 32/36)
-Fuel Sending Unit w/gasket
-1" body lift kit
-motor/tranmission mounts
-Oil/oil filter
-serpentine belt (but i think the one on there is good)
-water pump/ thermostat/ coolant flush (i need to verify the hoses)

Then i need to figure out whatever i need to get my 4WD working and then mess with guages and the radio.

Lots to do but it will happen eventually.


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post #30 of 609 Old 09-30-2019, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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Lift Options

Well it has been a while since i have posted anything and i dont have much to update on. It was been very busy with school start, family emergencies, trips, and a tree falling on the house that we just flipped last summer. Needless to say not much time to do much of anything to my jeep.

I have taken the rear stock fender flares off. I havent ordered front fender's yet but I will shortly. Right now i am trying to lock down the right rear axle. I immediately bog down if i try to shift into 5th gear on the highway. I mostly just drive in 4th. Also when the transmission gets too hot it is very rough in 1st gear. Ive done a few 30-45min trips and when doing into driving it shakes like a dog that just took a bath but once im in 2nd it stops. I am sure the trans will need a rebuild one day or just swapped but i need to do baby steps.

Once i have found the rear axle i want to do a fresh lift. I have gone back and forth between SOA and SUA. I am still not sure which why i want to go. I have been trying to find good lift kits for either option i decide to go with. From what i understand with a SOA i basically use stock springs and upgrade the shocks and since im going ontop of the axle i get 4-6" of lift. If i decide to go with SUA i am think 4" lift will be about perfect for me. I guess right now i will take any input on lifts that are recommended as well as pros/cons to either option. I do plan on wheeling the jeep but i also want to maintain some streetability to include highway driving.

As always thank you for any and all input received.


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