1990 YJ Build Thread, One Question at a time? - Page 13 - JeepForum.com
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post #181 of 782 Old 02-20-2020, 08:10 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
I would lean towards Lincoln. I have two 120V Lincolns that date to the 90s still going strong

With 030 fluxcore it will just barely be adequate for the sua perches. If you have some experience welding.

My opinion. I did my 8.8 with one
I am leaning towards the Lincoln too. Lowes has it and i get my military discount there so its the same price as the Hobart one then. I have heard nothing but good things with their longevity.

I have some experience with welding and I will use this as a good opportunity to hone in my skills.

This is also a great chance for me to get a new tool!!!


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post #182 of 782 Old 02-21-2020, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
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Last night I talked to the local driveshaft shop that fixed my driveshaft this past summer. I asked them about doing the welds and install on the 8.8, they told me they can do it and it would cost $50/hr. That is half the cost compared to ECGS. I am going to be stripping down and preparing the 8.8. Ill also have the brakes rebuilt and e-brake lines. I am ordering the 8.8 swap kit from ECGS since it does look like a very solid and complete kit. I'm currently sticking with the 4.10s and I will just have the front re-geared and hopefully an Aussie installed as well. I am still going to be getting a welder since i have a few things i would like to do myself but with the 8.8 i rather have someone that has more experience than me do the welds.

As a shocker winter decided to show its ugly head last night and it snowed (2.5ish inches) and then everything froze and there is ice now. People in the south definitely dont know how to handle the snow, lots of cars on the side of the road this morning. I have been driving the Jeep a bit this week and I am pleased with it.

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post #183 of 782 Old 02-21-2020, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
8.8 doesn’t have a carrier break so clutch-pak should work fine
My Aussie in the D30 has been great!
It kind of does. The LS carrier is different from the open carrier, and lunchbox lockers won't work with the LS carrier.

I'd go with the Hobart over the Lincoln. Hobart (Miller) makes a better MIG machine, in my opinion. However, I'd also recommend looking at other machines. Link, Link.

The two machines I linked are a little more expensive, but much more versatile. I was going to link you to my ESAB/Tweco multiprocess machine, because it runs off of 240v, but it seems it's been discontinued and replaced with the Rebel, which is twice what I paid for mine.

A multiprocess machine will let you do more than just MIG. For example, you'd probably want to use stick on your 8.8 axle tubes. I also recommend not buying a 120v machine. They really limit what you can safely do.

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post #184 of 782 Old 02-23-2020, 07:23 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
8.8 doesn’t have a carrier break so clutch-pak should work fine
My Aussie in the D30 has been great!
It kind of does. The LS carrier is different from the open carrier, and lunchbox lockers won't work with the LS carrier.

I'd go with the Hobart over the Lincoln. Hobart (Miller) makes a better MIG machine, in my opinion. However, I'd also recommend looking at other machines. Link, Link.

The two machines I linked are a little more expensive, but much more versatile. I was going to link you to my ESAB/Tweco multiprocess machine, because it runs off of 240v, but it seems it's been discontinued and replaced with the Rebel, which is twice what I paid for mine.

A multiprocess machine will let you do more than just MIG. For example, you'd probably want to use stick on your 8.8 axle tubes. I also recommend not buying a 120v machine. They really limit what you can safely do.
The plan for right now is to stick with the 4.10s and LS in the 8.8. When I go to 4.88s I will more than likely go to a selectable locker. I will keep that in mind though about the carrier. I know I’ll more than likely need to change the carrier on the D30 but I am not 100% sure on gearing in the axle right now. I haven’t opened it up to count but I’m guessing 3.55s. There are no exterior tags on either diff.

As far as a welder I picked between the Hobart and Lincoln because of what I have seen others use and the success they have had. I have toyed with the idea of a MP so I use 120/230v. I would need to add an outlet in the garage but that would be easy enough. I have heard mixed reviews on the HF Titanium so I’d be hesitant to purchase that one. I also would prefer have a close to “do it all” welder. I’ll continue to do my research and see what will work best.

Thank you so much for the information.

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post #185 of 782 Old 02-23-2020, 12:36 PM
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If you go selectable the carrier won't matter. Selectables use their own carrier.

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post #186 of 782 Old 02-23-2020, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
My Aussie in the D30 has been great!
minor pertinent hi-jack.

Fish i am also looking into an aussie for the D30... I've been reading up on reactions from the TJ crowd as i have the CAD delete utilizing TJ shafts (front driveshaft always engaged and turning).

Will this have any adverse effects other than the usual on a daily driver?

~YJOTM MAY '16, JULY '19~


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post #187 of 782 Old 02-23-2020, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by bruinjeeper View Post
minor pertinent hi-jack.

Fish i am also looking into an aussie for the D30... I've been reading up on reactions from the TJ crowd as i have the CAD delete utilizing TJ shafts (front driveshaft always engaged and turning).

Will this have any adverse effects other than the usual on a daily driver?
None in 2wd. Makes turning in 4wd more difficult in certain situations, but I've never personally had an issue with it.
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post #188 of 782 Old 02-23-2020, 03:10 PM
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None in 2wd. Makes turning in 4wd more difficult in certain situations, but I've never personally had an issue with it.
so even though my drive shaft and axles are always fully engaged, it wouldn't make any difference unless they are being driven?

good to know. carry on


~YJOTM MAY '16, JULY '19~


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post #189 of 782 Old 02-23-2020, 04:55 PM
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so even though my drive shaft and axles are always fully engaged, it wouldn't make any difference unless they are being driven?

good to know. carry on

Woah, wait a minute. I just remembered where you live. I would NOT put an auto locker in the front axle. You won't be able to steer that thing in a straight line in the snow.

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post #190 of 782 Old 02-23-2020, 05:15 PM
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....as opposed to how straight it goes down the road now?

(Edit: i actually was reading up on it all evening and decided against it after some vids of an aussie in the snow)

Looks like i'll just focus on the selectable for the rear for now.

~YJOTM MAY '16, JULY '19~


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post #191 of 782 Old 02-23-2020, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Awesome View Post
If you go selectable the carrier won't matter. Selectables use their own carrier.
Oh that’s good to know. The selectable will still be down the road.

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post #192 of 782 Old 02-23-2020, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bruinjeeper View Post
....as opposed to how straight it goes down the road now? [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/JeepForum_2016/smilies/tango_face_plain.png[/IMG]

(Edit: i actually was reading up on it all evening and decided against it after some vids of an aussie in the snow)

Looks like i'll just focus on the selectable for the rear for now.
Any ideas on what selectable for the rear? I like the Ox Cable locker but not 100% sure yet.

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post #193 of 782 Old 02-23-2020, 08:09 PM
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Any ideas on what selectable for the rear? I like the Ox Cable locker but not 100% sure yet.
in all my reading the past two weeks... 100% decided on the ARB.

Put that newly devised OBA system to use.

~YJOTM MAY '16, JULY '19~


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post #194 of 782 Old 02-24-2020, 06:33 AM Thread Starter
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in all my reading the past two weeks... 100% decided on the ARB.

Put that newly devised OBA system to use.
I am sure you will have that installed before I am ready to do that. I was wondering if the Sanden OBA will be good for the ARB air locker. I assumed it would be but was still curious. Once i get OBA that may influence the locker i select as well.

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post #195 of 782 Old 02-24-2020, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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I am looking at things to order for the jeep and I need to get some Dom Tubing for my new transmission mount so i can do my tummy tuck. I am trying to get things all lined up to happen at once. I just need to know what size tube to use. The trans bracket i got from Barnes says to use 1.5"-2" tubing, is it better to use the larger size tube? Then what is the best thickness? Should the center section be 2" and .25" thick? Then get 1.5" with the same thickness? Also is it best for the tubing to be in 2 sections or one solid piece with the center section slide over the middle? I have gotten my brackets from Barnes and looking at ruffstuff to order dom tubing. Im thinking a 12" section of 2" and a 48" section of the 1.5". Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I did order a M.O.R.E. 8.8 Yoke from extreme terrain. I will also be ordering my brakes, 8.8 swap kit, and the larger D30 carrier for re-gearing. I am really eager to get things rolling on the 8.8 but not sure how much time I will have this week to work on it.

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