1990 YJ Build Thread, One Question at a time? - Page 11 - JeepForum.com
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post #151 of 726 Old 01-25-2020, 08:17 PM
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The Aussie makes zero difference when driving in 2wd. Completely unnoticeable.

In 4wd it can make tight turns on a grippy surface a little interesting, but the benefits far outweigh the few negatives.


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post #152 of 726 Old 01-25-2020, 09:13 PM
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I used the Aussie. No probs. Invisible
Front driveshaft spins in 2WD

Put a Sylvan in a friend’s heep. He thinks it’s not as unclicky as my Aussie. The Aussie is silent.

[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #153 of 726 Old 01-26-2020, 05:05 AM Thread Starter
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Well then an Aussie locker it is!

For the rear I was thinking about an Ox cable locker. Any major concerns with that?

YJOTM: Jan 2021


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post #154 of 726 Old 01-26-2020, 06:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpia84 View Post
For the rear I was thinking about an Ox cable locker. Any major concerns with that?
Selectable is nice for the rear axle in my opinion
2nd best imho is clutch LS or a geared LS in back. I might do gear cuz “no one” does it; ‘gossip’ says the gear limited slip comes in smoothly off road and doesn’t chirp or grab turning corners on pavement unless you really put the right foot into it. I don’t actually know anyone who has one though.

A selectable sounds intriguing. I’m not usually one to “experiment” with purchases. However, I’m intrigued with the idea of the geared LS.

[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #155 of 726 Old 01-26-2020, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpia84 View Post
For the rear I was thinking about an Ox cable locker. Any major concerns with that?
Selectable is nice for the rear axle in my opinion
2nd best imho is clutch LS or a geared LS in back. I might do gear cuz “no one” does it; ‘gossip’ says the gear limited slip comes in smoothly off road and doesn’t chirp or grab turning corners on pavement unless you really put the right foot into it. I don’t actually know anyone who has one though.

A selectable sounds intriguing. I’m not usually one to “experiment” with purchases. However, I’m intrigued with the idea of the geared LS.
The rear will definitely be selectable. The Explorer 8.8 I got currently has 4.10s and LS. For now I am sticking with that. But down the road when I get further into the project and actually get to wheel it with the 8.8 I’d like to go to 4.88 gearing and a selectable locker.

YJOTM: Jan 2021


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post #156 of 726 Old 01-26-2020, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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Update from the work I did this weekend:

I cut the passenger side fender. In order to best fit the new fender I needed to remove the battery and battery tray. Well while taking out I found some rust. After sanding and cleaning it up it was just surface rust with no weak spots. I also cleaned up and strayed over the surface rust on the firewall. I have primed the battery tray and I’ll paint it and install it later this week.
572906f6-cb4c-4ba8-a05a-95359af94450_1580090696792.jpg
15d3f110-e1d7-45bc-9f0c-0cb53124dae8_1580091105150.jpg
f47c6b28-631f-46f3-91fa-0cbc490bfae0_1580091119624.jpg

I noticed while removing the Vacuum pump that it is missing a hose. I looked around and I couldn’t find where a hose was disconnected or could be coming from. Any ideas?
ae4f8d05-b5bb-4fad-9572-b56dfee74602_1580090716906.jpg

I did get the fender in place and the front and rear bolts are in place and attached. I also cleaned some surface rust on the front frame rail and painted it as well. I did look at my winch plate and the holes I have and I just need to do some trimming on the front of the winch plate so it can use the same holes as the bumper.
e493efb5-f1b4-4842-a151-0cae321c2d3c_1580091132694.jpg

I didn’t get as far as I hoped but still good progress.

YJOTM: Jan 2021


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post #157 of 726 Old 01-28-2020, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
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As I progress through my build I continue to learn more and more about what I want to do with the Jeep and things I will need to do to reach those goals. The main reason for this post is because I plan on finalizing my order for parts and doing a JY run for a few things as well. I have a plan for the 8.8 and just want to make sure I have the parts I need to make for a fairly easy install. The axle has 4.10 gearing and a LS. Upon inspection if all of that is in good shape I will be keeping that setup for now.

I have the following:
-Explorer 8.8
-Extended brake lines
-Calibers

I need:
-Spring perches
-Shock mounts
-Driveshaft yoke
-Brake pads/Rotors
-Backing plate behind the rotors (the ones that came with the axle are mangled so unless i can straighten them up I will just find new/replacement ones)
-SOLID Diff Cover

Then my upgrade plans for the D30 are as follows:
-Regear to 4.10s (Do i need to upgrade the carrier for this?)
-Install Aussie Locker at the same time
-TJ 1-piece shaft (should i replace axle shafts on both sides or just the passenger side?)
-CAD Delete (so ill need an axle seal and then just a block off plate)
-SOLID Diff Cover

Since I'll be doing rear discs all around I will need to upgrade my MC. From what I've read it seems like different people have had success with different options. I was looking at going with an Explorer MC since it was already supporting 4 wheel disc brakes. Are there any major concerns going with that route? Also I am aware that my driveshafts might/will need to be modified when I do the axle upgrade and I have a local driveshaft shop that will help me with that.

As always any and all help will be greatly appreciated.

YJOTM: Jan 2021


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post #158 of 726 Old 01-29-2020, 07:29 AM
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Well Barnes has the mounts and perches. Ubolts. The perches are too long imho for sua so you’ll want to cut them shorter by a few inches.

I’d just fix the cad and skip the delete. More work to avoid it than to fix it. And why? Also the driver’s side axle : same cad to no cad so why change it? Unless bigger ujoint?

I’d make my own perches and shock mounts though. A custom short perch gives you lift.

My oem master cylinder boost is ‘acceptable’ for 32s with the 8.8 discs.

[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #159 of 726 Old 01-29-2020, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
Well Barnes has the mounts and perches. Ubolts. The perches are too long imho for sua so you’ll want to cut them shorter by a few inches.

I’d just fix the cad and skip the delete. More work to avoid it than to fix it. And why? Also the driver’s side axle : same cad to no cad so why change it? Unless bigger ujoint?

I’d make my own perches and shock mounts though. A custom short perch gives you lift.

My oem master cylinder boost is ‘acceptable’ for 32s with the 8.8 discs.
I have the Barnes mount and perch kit bookmarked for the swap.

I will look into making my own or if my buddy can help me since i have almost ZERO metal fab tools.

I will need to read up on the CAD and figure out exactly what the issue is and what ill need to do to fix it. I wasnt going to get a driveside axle shaft unless it was necessary. I found a passenger TJ shaft for $50, then $6 for the seal and i have some metal i can cut to make the block off plate, that seems pretty cheap to me. Yes i know more work but also adds strength from what ive seem and adds longevity to the axle as well IMO.

Ill use the OEM MC for now but i know down the road as tire size goes up Im expecting it will be something i will need to upgrade.

YJOTM: Jan 2021


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post #160 of 726 Old 01-29-2020, 11:49 AM
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It’s like $60 for a whole brand new CAD vacuum harness so it’s not a money thing. And if you use the tj shaft your front driveshaft might want balancing.

[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #161 of 726 Old 02-05-2020, 08:14 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
It’s like $60 for a whole brand new CAD vacuum harness so it’s not a money thing. And if you use the tj shaft your front driveshaft might want balancing.
I looked over the cabling for the CAD harness using this diagram:
Name:  Dana 30 CAD Vac Diagram.png
Views: 45
Size:  7.3 KB

What i have found is that there is nothing connected to the VAC port on the Vacuum pump (under the battery tray) as well as nothing on the vacuum canister (under the coolant overflow tank and washer fluid tank)
vac-pump.jpg

Is there supposed to be a line connecting those ports?

Also while looking at the harness i do not see any issues. I do have 2 lines that go inside the cab of the jeep. one is red and one is blue. The PO said that he was told to switch the connections between the two cables for the 4wd to work. I will snap a picture of it this evening but I have tried that and had no luck before. I plan on opening up the CAD system just to inspect it but if everything is in good shape ill just close it back up. I am sure i should replace the seal when opening it up so ill look at doing that as well.

I did find this harness online. If I do end up having to replace the harness is this the correct one?
https://www.amazon.com/Transfer-Vacu...1SMF9QYRVQT4P9

Besides that I have finished installing the front fenders; painted the grill gloss black; cleaned up the front bumper and painted it black; trimmed the winch plate so I am using the same holes to mount the winch plate and bumper together (so i use all 4 bolts); painted the winch plate and plan on mounting things this evening up front. I also inspected the brakes and put some grease on the grease points. I do have a durango steering box but haven't committed to swapping it in just yet. I want to see how thing work off road and if i need to replace it now or just wait a bit.

I still have the MML to do but that should finish up the front for now. Next big think i need to is read up on the CRT HEI and finally install it. I would like the added pep when driving the Jeep and it will help off road for sure. The nutter bypass is already complete so it should be remove old distributor, plugs, wires and ignition coil. Then install CRT HEI and set the time at 12-13* . Ill continue to read more to make sure I am doing it correctly.

YJOTM: Jan 2021


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post #162 of 726 Old 02-05-2020, 05:59 PM
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Good progress

The thing you say is vac motor is a charcoal canister. Should’ve been connected always.

[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #163 of 726 Old 02-05-2020, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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Which of the 4 ports on the charcoal canister connect to the vacuum port on the vacuum pump? And I’m assuming I can get vacuum line at a local auto parts store.

YJOTM: Jan 2021


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post #164 of 726 Old 02-06-2020, 05:59 AM
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You could type this into yahoo or whatever;
“jeep wrangler yj vacuum canister diagram”
and get things like https://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=A2KL...PqL1KEZn7V_as-

[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #165 of 726 Old 02-06-2020, 06:44 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
You could type this into yahoo or whatever;
“jeep wrangler yj vacuum canister diagram”
and get things like https://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=A2KL...PqL1KEZn7V_as-
HAHAHA Who still uses Yahoo!? lol

Yeah I did a search last night after the post. I didnt do any work on the jeep last night, just reading and research.

Thanks!

YJOTM: Jan 2021


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