15 ohm resistor to altenator dead horse - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 10-13-2021, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
gehlsurf
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15 ohm resistor to altenator dead horse

Ok,

Just cleaned up my engine bay of wires, looks awesome!!! My jeep runs great, and runs, and runs....

I know what the issue is, the Excite wire. It was small 1 strand wire, I cut it shorter to make it cleaner, and now I know why it was so long and coiled up, lol.

It was just hooked to an ignition wire, which seems correct, right?

I know I need to by a 15 Ohm resistor to put in the middle of my new shorter wire, correct? But is there a specific type, from Amazon or something, I've found some, but Watts are different, so confused.

And, earlier today I just order a PA Performance High Output altenator, will this change the wiring? Maybe put it to 1 wire?

Here is the link,
https://www.extremeterrain.com/paper...790-1798h.html

As usual, thanks for bailing my butt out again!!! Lol

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post #2 of 12 Old 10-14-2021, 07:23 AM
GTS225
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Watts are simply a product of voltage multiplied by amps. (In this case, through the resistor.) The higher watt rating of the resistor, the more it can absorb and dissipate the heat that is created by current flow. Go ahead and get the resistor rated for the voltage and resistance you need, and get a higher watt rating.

Roger
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post #3 of 12 Old 10-14-2021, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTS225 View Post
Watts are simply a product of voltage multiplied by amps. (In this case, through the resistor.) The higher watt rating of the resistor, the more it can absorb and dissipate the heat that is created by current flow. Go ahead and get the resistor rated for the voltage and resistance you need, and get a higher watt rating.

Roger
So, something like this would work?
screenshot_20211014-105535_samsung-internet_1634223392023.jpg

Oddly, these seemed to have worked, when installed back to back as shown.
20211015_163044_1634329925515.jpg
20211015_163056_1634329938973.jpg
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post #4 of 12 Old 10-14-2021, 10:01 AM
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That is a Diode (One way valve) not a resistor.
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post #5 of 12 Old 10-14-2021, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Wyo View Post
That is a Diode (One way valve) not a resistor.
Yeah, in my original post, I think I misspoke, I think I need a diode.

That is what Painless Performance sells for this issue.
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post #6 of 12 Old 10-14-2021, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wyo View Post
That is a Diode (One way valve) not a resistor.
Wait, now I can find posts using resistors, lol. You may be correct, friend.

I know one thing, I'm confused and frustrated, electronics are not my gig.

If anybody could, please post a product bought at Autozone or Amazon or something.

It could be described to me, but it's so over my head, it wouldn't do much good. Would just create a robot hole of definitions for me to look up, and forget, lol.
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post #7 of 12 Old 10-15-2021, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wyo View Post
That is a Diode (One way valve) not a resistor.
I tried them back to back, it worked, dunno why, but did, lol.

Ran it for about 5 minutes and they weren't blazing hot or anything.20211015_163044_1634330415439.jpg20211015_163056_1634330426923.jpg
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post #8 of 12 Old 10-15-2021, 08:18 PM
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Dude, fill out your profile or tell what year, engine, etc. that you have. Come on man..... You have been here long enough.... Really.... WTH? I am trying to understand your upgrade.

Two diodes in series, which is how you have them, increases voltage drop in a bad way. A diode is a PN junction and it requires .6v to make it flow in the correct direction and opposes flow in the reverse direction. By putting two in series it now requires 1.2v to make them both operate. So, if you have 12.6V source which you should have, you now only have 11.4V after the diodes.

What excite wire did you mess with? The alternator?

I had a few to dig deeper but not the info I needed. Busy weekend as always but will chime back in sooner or later if you give more info.

If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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post #9 of 12 Old 10-15-2021, 11:08 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Boojo35 View Post
Dude, fill out your profile or tell what year, engine, etc. that you have. Come on man..... You have been here long enough.... Really.... WTH? [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/JeepForum_2016/smilies/tango_face_grin.png[/IMG] I am trying to understand your upgrade.

Two diodes in series, which is how you have them, increases voltage drop in a bad way. A diode is a PN junction and it requires .6v to make it flow in the correct direction and opposes flow in the reverse direction. By putting two in series it now requires 1.2v to make them both operate. So, if you have 12.6V source which you should have, you now only have 11.4V after the diodes.

What excite wire did you mess with? The alternator?

I had a few to dig deeper but not the info I needed. Busy weekend as always but will chime back in sooner or later if you give more info.
Lol, fair enough, I'll fill it out tomorrow.

The exciter wire was a single strand coiled up wire that lead to the Alternator.

I actually have an upgraded alternator on the way, it only has 2 wires, one that leads to an ignition on/off wire, and the charging wire. So in the end it's a moot point, but I already had them, so thought I would try it, lol.
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post #10 of 12 Old 10-17-2021, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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@Boojo35 , how do I set up a profile? Can it be done on a phone? Or PC only?

Got new alternator in, yep, works like a charm, now, just ran straight to an ignition wire, no Ohms, coils or nothing. It's beautiful, lol.
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post #11 of 12 Old 10-17-2021, 06:46 PM
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I did mine on my laptop. I find the forum to be very user unfriendly on my phone. In fact, I avoid the forum on my phone.

Did the alternator that you replaced have a moaning growling type noise to it? I am curious because they make a distinct noise when the diodes go bad.

If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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post #12 of 12 Old 10-17-2021, 07:53 PM
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What no one tells you off the bat about 1-wire alternators......they don't really charge all that well until you get some RPM under them. You may never find yourself in a situation where that is a problem, but many have had issues with high electrical loads at idle (lights, winches, high power stereos, etc.). Just something to keep in the back of your head. That resistance wire on the 10SI alternator you had functions very similar to the PCM-controlled C-wire on my AD230....varies charging output with load.
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