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post #1 of 107 Old 10-11-2016, 02:47 PM Thread Starter
capthowdy575
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Xj expedition questions.

Hi I'm getting ready to start ordering parts for my 2001 xj. I finally got done rebuilding the motor from top to bottom. Fixing the rust holes and painting the entire thing in chassis saver (monster liner to come next ). I'm wanting to make a extended expedition rig out of her. I'm planning on doing a 6 inch Clayton long arm with 33's, SYE, re gear my hp 30 and 8.25, sleeve the 30 and do ARB lockers front and back. 1 ton steering and hydro assist.

I just have a couple of questions first I'm ordering my SYE this Friday and wanted to know if I should go CV or non CV I'll be getting a tom woods drive shaft also with it.

Also should I be worried about going so high making it a expedition rig we will be driving it cross country and pulling a small utility trailer with are gear and things.

Thanks for the help

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post #2 of 107 Old 10-11-2016, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capthowdy575 View Post
Hi I'm getting ready to start ordering parts for my 2001 xj. I finally got done rebuilding the motor from top to bottom. Fixing the rust holes and painting the entire thing in chassis saver (monster liner to come next ). I'm wanting to make a extended expedition rig out of her. I'm planning on doing a 6 inch Clayton long arm with 33's, SYE, re gear my hp 30 and 8.25, sleeve the 30 and do ARB lockers front and back. 1 ton steering and hydro assist.

I just have a couple of questions first I'm ordering my SYE this Friday and wanted to know if I should go CV or non CV I'll be getting a tom woods drive shaft also with it.

Also should I be worried about going so high making it a expedition rig we will be driving it cross country and pulling a small utility trailer with are gear and things.

Thanks for the help

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Sye's should always be used with CV shafts.

6" is way more than needed for 33's. My rig has a 3" lift and cutout flares, my next set of tires will be 32's or 33's depending on what I find in each soze.

Careful with chassis saver. It is entirely dependent on mechanical adhesion and if it doesn't have that ultra rough pitted rust surface it's designed for it will eventually come off in chunks. Well documented issue with that stuff

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post #3 of 107 Old 10-11-2016, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info I read about the chassis saver flaking off I mostly used 40 grit to ruff everything up including the rust. I know I'm going long arm just haven't decided between a 3 link 6 inch or 4 inch radius. I guess I'll be doing a CV with the SYE thanks.

If some other people could chime in on 6 inch long arm lift while driving on the highway that would be great.

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post #4 of 107 Old 10-11-2016, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
capthowdy575
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Some quick pics I'm going to do a build log when I'm all done.

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post #5 of 107 Old 10-11-2016, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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Also made my own relay box thanks to bleeping Jeep on YouTube

Also Ported my thermostat housing





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post #6 of 107 Old 10-11-2016, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by capthowdy575 View Post
Thanks for the info I read about the chassis saver flaking off I mostly used 40 grit to ruff everything up including the rust. I know I'm going long arm just haven't decided between a 3 link 6 inch or 4 inch radius. I guess I'll be doing a CV with the SYE thanks.

If some other people could chime in on 6 inch long arm lift while driving on the highway that would be great.

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Highways and hillclimbs the radius arm type looses out compared to a true 3 link or 4 link. Take a look at cavfab's 3 link, nice solid setup. It comes as just the arms but you can always buy the other components separately, no rule says you have to use a kit.

Another tip looking at those kits: for best performance you really want to have shackle relocation, not just longer shackles and lift leaves. Proper shackle angles are critical to ride and flex, and those brackets will give the shackles more travel. The shackle relocation kits lift from 1.5-2" on their own, so you really only need a 4.5" lift leaf to go with them for 6".

Make sure you take lockers and gearing into account as well. Those can cost nearly as much as the lift (more if you were looking for a lower lift) and are just as important, more so in fact. Not sure if you know and didn't ask because you've got it handled or what but I just figured I should throw it out there in case.

Not sure what "expedition" means to you, but be aware of center of gravity as you lift. A 6" lift already lifts that way up, a bunch of trail tools and a spare on the roof rack for example would do even more. That starts getting real chancy in off camber situations compared to a low COG build with trimmed fenders instead of more lift to account for the tires. No big deal in mud but those sort of considerations can make the difference between rolling through and rolling over when you're playing in the rocks.
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post #7 of 107 Old 10-11-2016, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the great advice. I'll have to read up on the cavfab never really heard of them. Im not opposed to buying everything separate seems like you get the best of the best that way.

Also by expedition I mean traveling the country and hitting some nice trails and camping for a couple of weeks. Most of the gear that we would carry on the jeep would be food, water, some tools and minor equipment, the trailer will be the base camp mostly i figured I could set up base then throw the spare into the jeep since base camp will contain most of our gear.

Again thanks for the info guys jeep it coming please I'm pretty new to expedition out of a vehicle.

We've mostly only been backpacking for a couple of days.

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post #8 of 107 Old 10-11-2016, 10:46 PM
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Look at cav fabs 3 link crossmember and arms, 4.5 will be plenty for 33s unless you want to keep the factory flares. Im building mine for the same reasons. I wouldnt touch the 8.25. A ford 8.8 is much stronger and has way more aftermarket support. Definitly worth the swap. I think of it as extra insurance.

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post #9 of 107 Old 10-11-2016, 10:46 PM
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And check this out
http://expeditionportal.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=149468

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post #10 of 107 Old 10-12-2016, 12:22 AM
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Side note:

Just as a heads up XJ cooling systems are particularly sensitive to maintence. You seem to be on a full teardown but if you're reinstalling the factory rad, water pump all that mess you'll want to flush them well before taking any long trips. The cooling system is up to the job, even with bigger tires but it wants a little more attention than most. When you add a trailer of any significant weight it gets worse. The 00-01 models also have a head that is prone to cracking between cylinders 3 and 4 when overheated, so it's especially critical with those year models. A note on the rad: you don't need a 3 row all metal monstrosity. You do need a clean rad. People will hate on the stock aluminum/plastic design but frankly most stock XJ's don't have a rad problem for at least 15 years, and then usually it's caused by clogs and **** from not flushing it on a semi-regular basis. If you want a good rad for towing and big tires just get a factory replacement for the original HD radiator, which is a 2-row aluminum job that came on the towing package XJ's.

For even more fun, the AW4 tranny likes to run hot by default. That makes it more likely to burn fluid on long wheeling runs or while towing. So if you've got the auto and don't have the factory towing package do yourself a favor and add a separate trans cooler. It makes a world of difference, even the little stock one. I love mine and it saves my fluid towing the RV. Be aware that due to the weak point in the clutch a manual XJ is only good to tow about 1500 pounds no matter what you do to it elsewhere.

The factory towing package, should you wish to emulate it, consists of: upgraded 2-row aluminum/plastic rad, stiffer (higher spring rate and load rating) rear springs, 8-bolt hitch (you can use curt, draw-tite, uhaul whatever but use an XJ specific hitch not one of those universal nightmares they sell at wally world or an aftermarket hitch bumper without frame tie-ins), 7-pin wiring connector w/brake controller and an external trans cooler. Towing capacity equipped that way is 5k. I added all those pieces to my XJ and tow a 4k (when empty) RV without real issues on 31's with 4.10 gears. Wouldn't want to do it in the mountains but it's fine in Texas hill country.
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post #11 of 107 Old 10-12-2016, 05:34 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jswift716 View Post
Look at cav fabs 3 link crossmember and arms, 4.5 will be plenty for 33s unless you want to keep the factory flares. Im building mine for the same reasons. I wouldnt touch the 8.25. A ford 8.8 is much stronger and has way more aftermarket support. Definitly worth the swap. I think of it as extra insurance.

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I've been debating the 8.8 by Ford but for now I'm going to keep the 8.25. but thanks for the suggestion. I'm not keeping the factory flare's btw.

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post #12 of 107 Old 10-12-2016, 05:37 AM
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I've been debating the 8.8 by Ford but for now I'm going to keep the 8.25. but thanks for the suggestion. I'm not keeping the factory flare's btw.

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I like the 8.8 because you can get one from a yard with 4.10s and rear disks (sometimes even a limited slip) for less than the price of re gearing the 8.25 let alone adding the arb. Just the rest of my thoughts now that im put of work
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post #13 of 107 Old 10-12-2016, 05:46 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info on the cooling system. I already sourced a tupy head when I was doing the rebuild no use putting something on that might fail.

Also expedition portal is awesome been reading on there for awhile.

Also on the cooling system I already have a the upgraded HD rad. And a aftermarket trans cooler waiting to go in ( waiting on new trans lines ) I deleted the factory clutch fan and bought two brand new electric fans. ( I know the clutch fan puts more cfm out but didn't like it lol ) the cooling system is basically brand new expect the reservoir tank Which has been cleaned out.

For the hitch I'm going with a JCR rear bumper with rear tie in brackets. Already have a nice 7pin hook up.

Again guys thanks for the info. I'll be updating this post when new parts come in. Kerri the suggestions coming in please.

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post #14 of 107 Old 10-12-2016, 05:49 AM
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What goes with the jeep, Or is all your gear and spares strickly on the trailer?

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post #15 of 107 Old 10-12-2016, 05:52 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jswift716 View Post
I like the 8.8 because you can get one from a yard with 4.10s and rear disks (sometimes even a limited slip) for less than the price of re gearing the 8.25 let alone adding the arb. Just the rest of my thoughts now that im put of work
Yea the 8.25 I have was going to get a disk swap from a liberty. The only thing I hate about the 8.8 is you have to use spacers to match the width but it's not a bad trade off. For a LS bigger gears and more aftermarket parts. I have a upull and pay near me so getting one wouldn't be that hard. Are there any down falls to running a 8.8 in a xj other then weld the tubes so they don't spin?

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