What to inspect before buying a lifted XJ? - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 01-23-2020, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
Ryan_Colorado
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What to inspect before buying a lifted XJ?

Thanks in advance. I'm going to check out a '99 XJ this weekend. It's got brand new 33's sitting on a 4" lift. This would be my second XJ. I sold my 1990 about a year ago before I invested in lifting it (It was the right decision).

Other than the typical things mechanical to check with a used car or Jeep, what are the things you would suggest I inspect on a lifted vehicle? I'm not hugely fluent in all the necessary parts associated with a lift this tall.

I know I'll need to try to get up to speed to confirm it's been re geared appropriately. I'm assuming there should be either a transfer case drop or a SYE. From the pictures I'm guessing it's a short-arm kit, but I don't know if it was just an add-a-leaf in back.

Suggestions for what I should inspect?

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post #2 of 7 Old 01-24-2020, 09:42 AM
TheBoogieman
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Seems like you know what to look for. Everything depends on the price and mileage for me. Personally, I look for a 4WD (2WD Jeeps are like having a hot GF that's saving herself for marriage) PASS, NO RUST, No offroad damage underneath, 8.25 rear axle, leaks, overheating, smoking, shifting smoothly and I don't want to see Rough Country on the shocks.. For a lifted Jeep I just drive it and check for vibes, driveshaft angles and any wobbling or handling problems like swaying and make sure the brake lines are long enough. A lifted Jeep should drive and handle as good as a stock one (or better because of the wider stance and better stability). I can drive mine with two fingers steering at 70mph. If it looks like this, buy it if the price is right and the mileage is good.

p.s. Most people with 3.55 or 3.73 gears don't regear them for 33s. It's not cheap. I wouldn't buy any Jeep with 3.07s, D35 rear axle and larger tires.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinmichguy_ View Post
TheBoogieman is a jerk.
03' Rubicon/Zone 4" coils with 1" spacers up front/Rancho shocks/5.13 gears-35" MTZs/BM brakes
99' XJ /4.0L-AW4/ 5.5" lift / Rancho shocks/33" DC Extreme country MTs. Jeep #18
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post #3 of 7 Old 01-24-2020, 01:24 PM
NevadaWheeler
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^^^ Good advise.


I would also put it in 4 low and drive straight and make sure there is little to no binding, then turn and make sure there is some binding to be sure the 4wd works. I had 3.07 gears with 33's and it sucked! I ended up getting axles with 4.10 gears from an XJ with a 4 cylinder. An SYE is far better than a transfer case drop. Also look for the rear diff to be pointing almost straight with the rear drive shaft. 1 degree angle difference is best for the ujoints.
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post #4 of 7 Old 01-24-2020, 06:21 PM
car6car
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post #5 of 7 Old 01-24-2020, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
Ryan_Colorado
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Yep - our lists line up. My first XJ was 90 Renix. All the vacuum lines drove me nuts. It had way too much rust (I should have waited for a better one), and I wasn't going to go to the expense of getting an 8.25 if the bones really weren't great. But, I loved it and I learned a lot.

It's an automatic, so if the gears are still stock it'll be 3.55 (assuming it's still an 8.25).

Not sure if this link will work. Here's a pic of what I'm looking at. 1999 w/ 123k miles: https://images.craigslist.org/00d0d_...Jn_600x450.jpg
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post #6 of 7 Old 01-25-2020, 09:59 AM
car6car
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I would inspect craigslist for non-lifted XJs.

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post #7 of 7 Old 01-25-2020, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
Ryan_Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by car6car View Post
I would inspect craigslist for non-lifted XJs.
That's what I had previously. And I woke up this morning balking at buying this one. More concerned about pulling the trigger financially (I'm a tight-wad!). And I might do exactly what you're saying. It'll take longer to be trail-worthy, but that's half the fun. I do appreciate everyone's feedback.
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