what did I do wrong? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 15 Old 11-19-2019, 09:22 AM Thread Starter
Rmvr53
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what did I do wrong? (column swap now have error codes)

So last month I picked up a 2000 XJ Sport from a tow auction. The only real damage was the back window busted out and the ignition busted. I put a battery in it and it started up/drove/ran just fine so set about finding a replacement column. Found that, I finally got it installed this past Sunday afternoon. The battery was weak enough it wouldn't turn over more than a few turns so I quit and left it till yesterday when I could put the charger on the battery. After a couple of hours I went out to try it and it would turn over but not start. So thinking the ignition switch might be bad on the replacement column I swapped out for the original unit.
It started right up, then died. Started died. So I gave it throttle on the next try and I was able to keep it running but it was running like crap. Buck'n, and miss'n and even with pumping the gas it died. During all that it threw three codes...P1391, P0352 and P0353. So since it ran fine before the column swap, what did I do wrong...or miss. I'm not aware of any grounds that I disturbed during the swap. Pretty sure I didn't damage any wires. There is a small 8 or 9 pin plug that looks like it has sufficient length to reach about where the auto-trans lockout cable is but there isn't anything for it to plug into and per the VIN this isn't a chipped key car.

So, what'd I do wrong?

thanks for ideas

Bill

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post #2 of 15 Old 11-19-2019, 09:40 AM
Michaelj51
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P1391= Intermittent loss of Crank or Cam sensor. "Loss of the cam position or crank position sensor has occurred."
P0352= Ignition Coil #2 Primary Circuit. "Peak primary circuit current not achieved with maximum dwell time."
P0353= Ignition Coil #3 Primar¥ Circuit. "Peak primary circuit current not achieved with maximum dwell time."

First thing to check would be the connections for the Crank and Cam sensors and their wiring harnesses as well as the Coil Pack connectors and harness. May have been compromised during the steering column removal and install?
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post #3 of 15 Old 11-21-2019, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
Rmvr53
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Thanks Michael but what I was looking for was something I missed or did that would trigger all three codes at once. The only wires disconnected were off the column and all those went back on where they came off of. If its just a coincidence, then can someone point me towards the plug or ground served by these three and I can start by cleaning the contacts. I really don't want to start throwing parts at this thing if its not "parts". It ran fine prior to the column swap.

thanks

Bill
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post #4 of 15 Old 11-21-2019, 10:37 PM
Michaelj51
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Both the coil pack harness and the Crank sensor harness go from the back side of the engine and across the drivers side to the ECU [computer] on the inner fender wall front right corner of the engine compartment {3 big plugs}. Cam sensor comes from the right side of the engine [above the oil filter], where you would find a distributor on an older model, and into a harness that goes the same way probably even combines with the Crank S harness ends in the same place [ECU].

I was just thinking that if you physically replaced the steering column, down to the steering box these harness may have been jostled or damaged in some way.

I all your work was inside the vehicle and just ignition/wiper/turnsignal/dimmer wiring, I'm afraid I'm lost on a suggestion there.

Seeing as all 3 CKS / CamS / Coil pack harness run together and all of the CODES relate to those, tracing/checking those might be a place to start.

Could the original ignition switch have been one of the ones with a factory security chip in the key, and the ECU is not recognizing the replacement?? That one needs an answer from someone with experience with that system....I have none.

Good Luck
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post #5 of 15 Old 11-22-2019, 12:47 AM
2oldjeeps
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you are smart not doing "too much' keep it simple without adding new possibilities.
i have had real hard times getting 2 xj's running and idling after a low/dead battery.
really had to play with throttle for like 20 minutes till they got hot and driven,restarted a few times. lift my foot and it died !, drive it if i can.

i think restarts and keeping it running with throttle till it relearns the idle settings is part of it.


never had this with "old" cars, no computer...
i didnt check codes,just struggled till it would idle on its own...

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post #6 of 15 Old 11-22-2019, 07:34 AM Thread Starter
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thanks Michael and 2oldjeeps - I guess I'll just do what I can to keep it running then for starts. My only experience with XJ's has been 3 so far and all were 96 and prior so I've not experienced this "strange" behavior before having to keep something running long enough for it to relearn how to run. Most ECU's store this kind of info in a memory. Did Chrysler forget to install some?
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post #7 of 15 Old 11-22-2019, 09:53 AM
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Where's CJ7-Tim at when you need an XJ expert?

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post #8 of 15 Old 11-22-2019, 09:54 AM
Michaelj51
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Have you "reset" the computer by removing the negative battery terminal for a few minutes and then reconnecting?
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post #9 of 15 Old 11-22-2019, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
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Michael - I've been leaving the battery unhooked as with the column out I didn't want any "issues". Until I can get a check on the alternator (which I think is bad - someone hooked up a jump box to the dead battery backwards) I wasn't going to have it kill a brand new battery.
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post #10 of 15 Old 11-22-2019, 12:59 PM
2oldjeeps
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oh oh...


Quote:
Until I can get a check on the alternator (which I think is bad -
that can do it! low voltage,injectors need volts,pump needs volts, ignition needs volts !!!


get a meter , should read 14 v running...

99wj,143,000 miles
00xj,177,000 miles
10hummer3,74,000 miles
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post #11 of 15 Old 11-22-2019, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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but do you think it could/would throw all these codes for a low-voltage or relearning idle window?
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post #12 of 15 Old 11-23-2019, 09:35 AM
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Fully charge the battery. Test the alternator.

Jeeps do not tolerate low voltage, bad wire connections, or poor grounds.

Perform routine maintenance of the start and charge systems. Remove, clean, and firmly reconnect all the wires and cables to the battery, starter, and alternator. Look for corroded or damaged cables or connectors and replace as needed. Copper wires should be copper color, not black or green. Battery terminals and battery wire connectors should bright silver, not dull gray and corroded. Do the same for the grounding wires from the starter to engine block, the ground wires at the coil, and the ground wires from the battery and engine to the Jeep's frame/body. You must remove, wire brush, and clean until shiny the cable/wire ends and whatever they bolt onto.
 
For 1996+ Jeeps, the OBD-II engine computer (ECU/PCM) re-boots, and the idle settings are deleted, when you: (1) let the battery run down by leaving the lights or radio on, (2) disconnect the battery for an extended period of time, (3) when the battery goes bad and needs replacing, (4) when the alternator is not properly charging the battery, (5) or when poor battery connections result in a voltage drop at the PCM or poor battery charging. Loose, corroded, or damaged battery cables or ground wires may also cause or contribute to the problem. A faulty Coolant Temperature Sensor may also cause similar symptoms. Testing of the CTS is recommended as part of the diagnostics. A poor ground at the ignition coil can also cause similar symptoms.
 
The reboot symptoms are: (1) having difficulties starting the engine without depressing the gas pedal, and (2) the engine will have a low idle and probably stall unless you keep your foot on the gas pedal. (3) The ECU will usually relearn the idle settings after a short period of driving and the engine will sometimes start and idle normally.

.

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post #13 of 15 Old 11-23-2019, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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status...
alternator checked out good. Installed new 800 amp battery (that ought to turn it over for a while...) and went the PITA "reboot" on the ECU. After about 15-20 starts/stops it will start and idle just fine...sometimes. About 1 in 3. The other two it bucks and kicks like its a mile out of time and throws 351,352 and 353 (all three coil packs) error codes. On the one time (in the set) that I cleared the codes and it started/ran fine, there were no error codes at any point. Shut it off, and it goes back to the kick and buck set. So my plan for tomorrow is to pull the plug on the coil pack and clean the contacts what I can and see what happens...unless ya'll have a better idea?

thanks guys

Bill
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post #14 of 15 Old 11-23-2019, 06:56 PM
wildbill23c
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rmvr53 View Post
Michael - I've been leaving the battery unhooked as with the column out I didn't want any "issues". Until I can get a check on the alternator (which I think is bad - someone hooked up a jump box to the dead battery backwards) I wasn't going to have it kill a brand new battery.
Someone hooked up a jump box backwards, that's where your problem may be, probably fried more than just the alternator...computerized vehicles don't like it when you apply power to them backwards.
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post #15 of 15 Old 11-24-2019, 12:35 PM
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All the battery and alternator wire connections are clean and tight ? All the battery and alternator cables are copper color and not black or green from corrosion ?

Follow the OBD trouble codes to focus your diagnostics. ECM failure is possible, but is very highly unlikely and should only be considered after having exhausted all the more common and more likely causes for the symptoms.


P0351 JEEP Possible Causes
  • Faulty Ignition Coil 1
  • Ignition Coil 1 harness is open or shorted
  • Ignition Coil 1 circuit poor electrical connection
  • Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)

.

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Progressive Liberalism: Bringing you new Healthcare ideas so wonderful, they have to include mandatory participation ...

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