Weld-on JKS extension bracket for axle tube - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 09-17-2020, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
feipoa
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Weld-on JKS extension bracket for axle tube

I was curious to know what you guys do when the joint in the mid section of your stock drag-link joint bangs into the JKS swaybar joint on the swarbar bracket? As it sits, I'm still able to just scrape the joint by the swaybar joint, but it puts quite a bit of pressure on the JKS quick disconnect bushings causing them to wear out prematurely.

Here's the photo.
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As my Jeep performs just fine on road, which is its primary purpose these days, I didn't want to get into the high steer (aka cross-over steer) kits due to the risk of upsetting my beautiful on-road ride. I also appreciate my steering damper and it seems the less expensive high steer kits do without the damper.

So I decided to purchase the JKS 2" extension brackets which weld onto the axle.
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I haven't found a welder to install these yet. I had a few questions first. As my JKS quick disconnects are already at their shortest lengths, would I have to cut off 2" from the JKS female threaded tube? I tried removing the chassis-side swaybar drop bracket, which also moves the bar forward, but in doing so the quick disconnect gets too close to the coil springs and will hit it when bouncing around in the Jeep. So I'm left with the only option to cut off 2" from the JKS quick disconnects? Will this alter the performance of the anti-sway system in any way? What have you folks done in this situation?

I was also wondering if there is any drawback in only welding on the passenger's side JKS 2" extension bracket? It might look wonky, but this way I'd only need to cut down one of the JKS quick disconnects. Will the asymmetry effect the anti-sway performance?

I was also wondering if I were to weld on the 2" JKS extension brackets and switch to a cost-effective high steer kit in the future (not one that changes out the knuckles, etc.), will having the 2" extension cause the high-steer drag-link to hit the lower JKS sway bar joint? Would I need to weld back on the stock sway bar brackets?

Are there any on-road drawbacks to these sub-$300 high-steer kits compared to the stock configuration? Thanks!

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post #2 of 12 Old 09-17-2020, 05:00 PM
CJ7-Tim
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The JKS extended bracket really only needs to be installed with about 1/2 inch of clearance for the drag link joint. If you move the bracket to the swaybar onto the top of the bar, everything should work out with no cutting of the disconnects. My 2000 only has one extended swaybar link to axle bracket, and the swaybar is in the stock location. No coil spring rubbing.

Cutting the lower tube part of the JKS will only work if the tube is threaded deep enough.

If you are not budgeted to do high steering right, it best left completely stock. My 2000 has 5.5 inches of lift and stock steering, not ideal, but it causes no major issues on or off road.



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post #3 of 12 Old 09-17-2020, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
feipoa
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Hello CJ7-Tim. Thank you for your reply. Please pardon my noviceness as I haven't done any Jeep mod work in 15 years. I do not follow this part of your sentence, "If you move the bracket to the swaybar onto the top of the bar..." Do you have a photo?

Which is "the bracket", the JKS 2" weld-on extension bracket, or the chassis-side drop bracket?

"swaybar" I assume means the factory sway bar, but refers to which location of the swaybar?

What item is "onto the top of the bar"?

It also sounds like you were able to weld on just ONE of the JKS 2" extension bracket. But how did you adjust it so that it only has 1/2" of rise? Did you have to cut it?

As for cutting the JKS quick disconnects, if the threading doesn't go down far enough, I guess I'd have to source the proper size tap to extend the threading.
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post #4 of 12 Old 09-17-2020, 05:35 PM
CJ7-Tim
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Study and compare my pictured JKS to sway bar hardware arrangement to yours. My sway bar is still bolted to the frame rail in the stock location, I would ditch the circled in red sway relocation brackets. My JKS disconnects may be the shorter version.

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post #5 of 12 Old 09-17-2020, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
feipoa
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When I first checked your reply, your photo wasn't there.

If I ditch the chassis-side drop bracket, it does move the disconnects closer to the coils unless I adjust them rather long, but then the angle the sway bar is too steep. I recall reading somewhere around 15 degrees is optimal.

It does look like you have the shorter JKS disconnects. I suppose I could order just the ends of these...

How far up from stock did you weld on the JKS extension bracket? Looks like more than 1/2" from the photo, but hard to tell. Thanks.
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post #6 of 12 Old 09-17-2020, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
feipoa
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Looking at the JKS website, it appears like they Disconnects came in 3 sizes: for 0-1.5" lift (JKS2002), for 2-3.5" lift (JKS2000), and for 4-6" lift (KJS2001). I'm pretty sure I have the ones for 4-6" lift.

If I add the high the chassis-side swaybar drop bracket (2-7/8") to the height of the JKS weld-on sway bar relocation bracket (2") and subtract that from my 5.5" of lift, I essentially have only 5/8" of lift w.r.t. the Disconnects. Hence I should order the bottoms from JKS2002 if the weld-on bracket sits 1-2" higher. If the bracket can be welded on at only 0.5" higher, then perhaps the bottoms from the JKS2000.

I will most likely cut off my existing JKS brackets and try my luck.

I do plan to install the Crown solid drag-link which, although a bolt-on replacement, it does sit a little higher than stock. Because of this, I'm currently only using the Crown tie-rod with the factory drag-link (and factory sleeves, the Crown sleeves are junk).
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post #7 of 12 Old 09-18-2020, 04:59 AM
CJ7-Tim
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Everything from Crown Automotive and Omix-Ada is junk. Buy Napa's best, or Moog.

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post #8 of 12 Old 09-18-2020, 02:29 PM Thread Starter
feipoa
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The tie rod is just a solid bar. What's there to go wrong with it? Can't be worse than the dealer's tube bar.

Got a part number for the Napa or Moog tierod & draglink?
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post #9 of 12 Old 09-21-2020, 12:15 AM Thread Starter
feipoa
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Brief update to this thread in case anyone else is doing this. I have the JKS disconnects for 4-6" of lift. I cut 2.5" off the threaded male side and 2.5" off the threaded female side. Not only is the female side not threaded all the way through, the non-threaded section of the female side is drilled out so that you cannot tap the rest of it. There is only about 1" of threading in the tube, so to shorten these you need to cut off the top 1", cut out middle section of the tube out, then weld the top 1" back on. As the welder is coming over tomorrow anyway, I don't see this as much of a hassle.
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post #10 of 12 Old 09-22-2020, 04:38 AM Thread Starter
feipoa
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For some reason two of three of the photos in the original post are no longer being displayed, but here are some shots of the JKS extensions welded on and the JKS Disconnects cut/welded shorter. Since the photo, I have shortened the JKS disconnects to the shortest possible. Sway bar angle is at 19 degrees. According to JKS, 15 degrees on an XJ is optimal. Good enough for me.

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post #11 of 12 Old 09-23-2020, 06:58 AM
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I don't see why the swaybar would care what angle it's at, it's just a torsion spring. +1 for losing the swaybar drop brackets.

I am puzzled by the difference in clearance between Tim's setup and OP. Seems to me that Tim has more lift and should see more interference between the steering and swaybar link mount.
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post #12 of 12 Old 09-23-2020, 08:08 AM
CJ7-Tim
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The sway bar does need to be close to about 15° to function correctly, and not contact anything while doing its job.

I have a different brand of sway bar link relocation brackets and my photo angles seem to be different.

As long as everything functions as necessary for feipoa, its all good. Now that the JKS disconnects are shorter, the sway bar mount drop can stay.

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