Trans fluid flush - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 35 Old 10-23-2019, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
Mddouglas
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Trans fluid flush

I am new to anything mechanic like but want to learn. I have a 2001 Cherokee sport xj and it needs a trans fluid change and flush. I drained the pan and put the new filter in. I put 4 quarts more fluid in to make up for what was lost in draining the pan. I know I need to flush the rest out but the trans return line has weird connector that is pain to get off. How do I get it off ? I'm pretty sure this what I need flush it from but I could be wrong any tips or advice?

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post #2 of 35 Old 10-23-2019, 06:13 PM
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Old fluid line fittings like to self destruct when you try to mess with them. I would suggest you do the lazy guy flush. Drive 50-100 miles, drain the trans fluid from the pan with the drain plug, and refill. Repeat 2 -3 times until the fluid looks fresh. If you really want to do it all at once, it looks like the other hose has a regular hose clamp on it.

Once my Dexron-III/Mercon trans fluid is fresh, I drain the pan and refill once a year.
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post #3 of 35 Old 10-23-2019, 07:26 PM
2oldjeeps
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i got mine at 168000 and did drain/ fill three times in 3 months.'thats probably the best it ever saw.
at 179000 it feels like new

99wj,143,000 miles
00xj,177,000 miles
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post #4 of 35 Old 10-23-2019, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
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Ok thanks for the tips ! My trans fluid was pretty dark and burnt smelling that is why I had to change it.
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post #5 of 35 Old 10-24-2019, 08:48 AM
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Repeated drain and fills are all it could ever need.

Factory recommendation is to drain and fill every 30,000 miles unless it's a taxi, postal vehicle etc. Then it's 15,000. There is no service interval for the screen, ever.

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post #6 of 35 Old 10-24-2019, 08:54 AM
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important - using the correct fluid.

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #7 of 35 Old 10-24-2019, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
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important - using the correct fluid.
This^^.
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post #8 of 35 Old 10-25-2019, 03:26 PM
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Cut the line and install a spin on trans fluid filter housing and filter. Think oil filter but dedicated to your transmission fluid. Whatever brand I used also had a sending unit for trans temp and a gauge to install. I used the milk jug method to flush it all out till it was all bright, cherry red, then closed it all up by hooking the line to the barb fitting that came with the kit. It is tucked up on the back side of the front crossmember on the passenger side. It is easy to get to to service but tucked well up out of the way.

Now I have a quick place to drain it from should I want to without dropping the pan.
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post #9 of 35 Old 10-25-2019, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmashDN View Post
Cut the line and install a spin on trans fluid filter housing and filter. Think oil filter but dedicated to your transmission fluid. Whatever brand I used also had a sending unit for trans temp and a gauge to install. I used the milk jug method to flush it all out till it was all bright, cherry red, then closed it all up by hooking the line to the barb fitting that came with the kit. It is tucked up on the back side of the front crossmember on the passenger side. It is easy to get to to service but tucked well up out of the way.

Now I have a quick place to drain it from should I want to without dropping the pan.
What's wrong with the plug that's already on the pan?
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post #10 of 35 Old 10-27-2019, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mddouglas View Post
I am new to anything mechanic like but want to learn. I have a 2001 Cherokee sport xj and it needs a trans fluid change and flush. I drained the pan and put the new filter in. I put 4 quarts more fluid in to make up for what was lost in draining the pan. I know I need to flush the rest out but the trans return line has weird connector that is pain to get off. How do I get it off ? I'm pretty sure this what I need flush it from but I could be wrong any tips or advice?
Do you know how those disconnects work? Sorry I have to ask. They can rust up and removing it will destroy it. You will then have to replace the whole line I think. Fill it up. Drive it 100 miles if you want or 5000 and redo it. No need to flush it. Make your life easy. I'm not being lazy. You really don't need to flush it.
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post #11 of 35 Old 10-27-2019, 04:44 PM
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This guy does it. I don't flushing is really necessary.
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post #12 of 35 Old 10-27-2019, 06:02 PM
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Drain and refill is all that's needed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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post #13 of 35 Old 10-27-2019, 06:20 PM
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Drop pan and change filter as needed at correct mileage intervals. If the fluid is truly burned.... No flush will save it. Burned fluid means burned clutch or band friction material. No if ands or buts about it. JS.

If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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post #14 of 35 Old 10-27-2019, 06:37 PM
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It's NOT a filter, but a metal screen to protect the valve body from contaminants in case of catastrophic failure.
There is NO recommended interval to ever change the screen. For normal use, drain and refill every 30,000 miles. Heavy duty use every 15,000 miles.

The AW4 is likely the hardiest auto trans ever made. We don't need to treat it like a Ford, GM, or Chrysler slushbox.

I've seen these transmissions take horrible abuse and still continue on after changing the fluid a few times via the drain plug and refilling.

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post #15 of 35 Old 10-29-2019, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54 View Post
What's wrong with the plug that's already on the pan?
You don't get all the fluid out that way. If it has been well taken care of, sure that is all you need. Drain it there and add fresh to already decent shape fluid.

If you don't know the history or you have fluid in really bad shape and don't want to continue to add, drain, add, drain over and over, you can cut a line and use the circulation to flush all the fluid out into a clear jug.

I was looking for it on Youtube but can't find it. Guy would run it into a milk jug or other clear jug until it the jug was about 3/4 full then shut off the vehicle. Jug would continue to fill after it was shut off. Add one gallon of new fluid. Run it again as needed until you only have bright cherry red fluid going into the jug.

To do this method you have to open a line anyway. It was then I put the spin on filter adapter and filter in line on the return line. Now I have the ability to measure trans fluid temp going into the transmission. Put another sending unit on the outgoing and you know hot hot your trans is and whether or not your cooler is doing its job.

It is certainly more work but also gave me peace of mind knowing all the old junk was out of there, I had a filter on it to keep it clean, it was easy to drain it when/if I wanted, it added a skosh more capacity and since I installed a larger cooler as well I can tow my boat with less risk.
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