A/T - Park to Drive = Clunk - Reverse to Drive = Clunk - JeepForum.com
 2Likes
  • 1 Post By CJ7-Tim
  • 1 Post By riderboy1961
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 9 Old 06-03-2020, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
riderboy1961
Registered User
 
riderboy1961's Avatar
2000 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Portland
Posts: 180
Garage
A/T - Park to Drive = Clunk - Reverse to Drive = Clunk

A/T - Park to Drive = Clunk - Reverse to Drive = Clunk

"Rear Driveline"
I checked with my eyeball engineering and 2 handed shaking of each end of the Rear driveline. The rear U-Joint doesnt look to be flexing at all.
When I push and pull on the Front of the rear drive line the front U-Joint "May" be slightly flexing but it is hard to tell because it looks like the end of the TC that it is connected to it, seems to flex just a little too.

The rear u-joint has Semi U shaped bolts on half of the u-joint, I ought to be able to remove that u-joint without a problem (pic attached). The front u-joint However, has C shaped clips holding each of the 4 ends in place, * "how to Remove that front u-joint?"

*Is the Clunk most likely do to a worn U-Joint?
(I am thinking of changing at least the front U-Joint.)

Attached Thumbnails
20200603_143734_resized.jpg  

Thank You,
Bo
riderboy1961 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 9 Old 06-04-2020, 03:20 PM
CJ7-Tim
Real Jeeps have dents
 
CJ7-Tim's Avatar
2000 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: out in the garage - Minneapolis
Posts: 28,279
I would suggest investing a few dollars in a genuine Jeep Service Manual like the Dealerships use. >> www.pacificcoastmanuals.com

The clunk is normal, and related to accumulated mileage. U joints typically make noises at about +40 mph when they are starting to go out, and they often feel stiffer than normal when operated by hand. They can also show pink dust at the seal which is the remains of your roller bearings inside the cups. Slip yoke splines if not well maintained can be subject to excessive wear and add to clunking.

You have to take into account you are driving one of the finest examples of 1980's AMC automotive technology with two straight axles, a chain drive transfer case, and an engine designed in the 1960's. Noise/Vibration/Harshness was not a primary concern when the Cherokee was designed.

If you think it is necessary, some fresh u-joints would not cost much or hurt anything, and you should have no drive shaft worries for the next 150,000 miles if you use top quality brand name parts. Cheap parts are cheap for a reason.
riderboy1961 likes this.

.
“When the people find that they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the Republic.”

- Benjamin Franklin
CJ7-Tim is offline  
post #3 of 9 Old 06-04-2020, 04:10 PM Thread Starter
riderboy1961
Registered User
 
riderboy1961's Avatar
2000 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Portland
Posts: 180
Garage
Yesterday, I got under the rig and checked the transmission mount bolts and nuts.
The two bolts at each end of the crossmember that the trans is bolted to... had two Tight rear bolts the front two bolts needed about 1 full turn to get tight.
The 4 nuts holding the transmission down onto the crossmember needed about one full turn each to get tightened up, I didnt want to take a risk of Overtightening those four nuts, the bolts that they are screwed onto are not very big around.
I took it for a drive after tightening all the bolts and it seemed to have less of a clunk going into Drive (may just be me hoping the clunk would go away).

This evening I am going to check the leaf spring u bolts/nuts and see if they need to be tightened.

Thank You,
Bo
riderboy1961 is offline  
 
post #4 of 9 Old 06-04-2020, 04:22 PM
TheBoogieman
Distubed Jeepaholic
 
TheBoogieman's Avatar
2003 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: charlottesHELL
Posts: 40,471
The Chrysler clunk is an XJ thing. My XJ's have always done it. Sometimes worse than others and sometimes not at all. No TJ auto transmission does that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinmichguy_ View Post
TheBoogieman is a jerk.
GOT IT BACK 6/17. 03' Rubicon/Zone 4.25" combo lift with 4" lift coils up front/Zone hydro shocks/5.13 gears/35" Mickey Thompson MTZ P3 tires/Black Magic brakes. Jeep #17 & 19.
TheBoogieman is offline  
post #5 of 9 Old 06-05-2020, 04:03 AM
BagusJeep
Web Wheeler
 
BagusJeep's Avatar
1981 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Bali
Posts: 7,545
they are not the smoothest but this is related to several factors.

If you have wear in the U joints or some play in the rear axle (they all do) or your engine or transmission mounts are worn there is a measurable movement at the transmission tailshaft left and right when you go between Park and Reverse or Reverse and Drive or Drive and Reverse.

The amount of clunking is related to how high the pressure is in the transmission. A lower pressure will give less clunk, too low a pressure and it will not engage until you rev up. The TVS cable needs to be properly adjusted to get the smoothest clunk.

I looked at a Hemi GC the other week, it clunked alarmingly in this scenario, worn isolators are a common fault on the transmission in those. Hard work to get up under to pull out those bits of rubber.

BagusJeep lives in Bali.

1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
1951 Willys CJ3A/MB/M38 - Little Willy
1995 Cherokee 4.0 - CHEROKEE
BagusJeep is offline  
post #6 of 9 Old 06-05-2020, 07:10 AM
jeepguy03
Winning
 
jeepguy03's Avatar
1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Storrs
Posts: 6,441
Garage
Grease the splines on the slip yoke, it's where the rear driveshaft slips onto the transfer case output shaft (rear shaft will need to be removed to do this). Mine had a pretty bad clunk when switching from reverse to drive. Greased up the splines of the output shaft (used anti-seize actually) and it was gone.

0331 head swap DIY:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


"Build" thread:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Previous: 1990 XJ Limited, 2000 XJ Sport, 2000 XJ Sport
Current: 1998 Wrangler Sahara
jeepguy03 is offline  
post #7 of 9 Old 06-05-2020, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
riderboy1961
Registered User
 
riderboy1961's Avatar
2000 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Portland
Posts: 180
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepguy03 View Post
Grease the splines on the slip yoke, it's where the rear driveshaft slips onto the transfer case output shaft (rear shaft will need to be removed to do this). Mine had a pretty bad clunk when switching from reverse to drive. Greased up the splines of the output shaft (used anti-seize actually) and it was gone.
Ok.. I'll try that.

Completed last night. Used anti-seize too.
Attached Thumbnails
20200604_202918_resized.jpg   20200604_203646_resized.jpg   20200604_203003_resized.jpg  
jeepguy03 likes this.

Thank You,
Bo
riderboy1961 is offline  
post #8 of 9 Old 06-05-2020, 01:04 PM
TheBoogieman
Distubed Jeepaholic
 
TheBoogieman's Avatar
2003 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: charlottesHELL
Posts: 40,471
Quote:
Originally Posted by riderboy1961 View Post
Ok.. I'll try that.

Completed last night. Used anti-seize too.
Did it fix it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinmichguy_ View Post
TheBoogieman is a jerk.
GOT IT BACK 6/17. 03' Rubicon/Zone 4.25" combo lift with 4" lift coils up front/Zone hydro shocks/5.13 gears/35" Mickey Thompson MTZ P3 tires/Black Magic brakes. Jeep #17 & 19.
TheBoogieman is offline  
post #9 of 9 Old 06-06-2020, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
riderboy1961
Registered User
 
riderboy1961's Avatar
2000 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Portland
Posts: 180
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBoogieman View Post
Did it fix it?
Somewhat/yes & no

it Now only Clunks going from Reverse into Drive.

When pulling out of garage (Engine and Transmission and Drive Components Cold) and starting out in drive, no clunk from reverse to drive, seems to only clunk from reverse to drive after a five mile drive.

Drive to Reverse, No Clunk, even when warmed up so... It is Better now after lubing the rear drive shaft spline..

When I lubed that rear drive line Shaft Spline I Did notice that when I use my hands and try to Spin the rear drive shaft Back and Forth that there is Some Play in it, going each way. That play could be in the Rear End or in the 231 TC. Apparently this is Normal for these rigs so Not going to obsess on it.

Thank You,
Bo
riderboy1961 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome