So I bought this new 2000 XJ great body... but it was worked on by an IDIOT - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 20 Old 05-15-2021, 11:53 AM Thread Starter
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So I bought this new 2000 XJ great body... but it was worked on by an IDIOT

SOOOOOOOOO. I bought this 2000 XJ SE as an interim vehicle to replace a 2000 XJ that is damaged (By Me) and has 300K + on it. It's ready for just being a on farm beater and I don't want to keep sorta road worthy any more cause it is NOT. every where is a long way and I don't trust it at all.

So I figured a couple weeks to get the new to me 2000 XJ all set up... It had some known issues. Slight body damage from a deer collision and some funky repairs to the injector wiring, Needed radiator, condenser. grill and header, all new hoses, fluids, you know, the works on maint items. From brakes to plugs, Battery cables were a disaster Etc... I would do it up righteous so it would be jump in and go.

I also knew it had drive line vibration issues, but discounted due to a couple bad U-Joints I found on initial inspection. The Body is truly rust free, Has Crank down windows... so it was love at 1st sight. I LOVE manual windows!!! There has been MUCH hate with my elect windows. My beater liked to lock me out randomly as well, till I killed the whole elect locks too. I live near a town of 200 people, I know every one and I leave the keys in the ignition and never lock my doors. There is no reason to. I go to a real town once or twice a month... only then do I lock the doors.

I do have a 99 in pieces in the shop undergoing a VERY Slow, full restoration. That is not on the table for this thread or discussion. Though I have been stealing some parts I had for it to get this 2000 XJ on the road.

Anyway this is turning into the XJ equivalent of Gilligan's Island 3 HOUR Tour. a Quick semi rehab to get back on the road as a safer XJ is tuning into a full tear down as I discover everything touched is FUBAR. Micro example: When I started the brakes I noticed the stabilizer had new bushings but they had broken loose the internal frame nut that holds the bracket on. 0 excuse as this IS rust free and every bolt looks great and easy to remove with minor effort. Then I find the Knuckles brake glides are worn AF THEN the caliper bolts are fully cross threaded. Like totally hosed, cross threaded. 2 hours later using every tool I own (It seems) I get out both ruined bolts and then I cannot, repeat CANNOT get the rotor off period Full stop. It's off by pulling the hub off with it. and it's STILL STUCK in the junk pile.
It's Gone and outta my life, I don't care the why anymore though later on I might put it in the press just to see. I already wrecked the rotor with hammers and pullers. and half a can of PB and a torch to boot.

New Hubs, Knuckles, rotors, calipers, hoses, are here or on the way...

The Axle

It's OUT of the jeep... I need a name for this guy who 'worked' on it that is forum friendly.. Dipwad will work till I, Or you, come up with a better one.

I pulled the drive shaft and the end U joint was hatched NBD...... Till I turned the Pinion.. Loose AND a BAD feeling with 0 preload and wobbles.. Dipwad had changed the pinion seal I figured the ring was toasted, once inside behind half a tube of silicone I find the carrier loose though the shims are still there behind the bearings... (OEM) and the bearing cages beat up and Dip wad put in new seals with the other half of the tube of silicone. I have 0 hope he put in the Bearing caps the same way as he found them but I really don't know HOW they should go because every time I have pulled them I kept them carefully set up to put them back the same way. I did take a pict but I consider that rather meaning less now

He also beat up the inner edges of the bearing housing installing the seals but not where the races sit farther in. I'll pull the Pinion today as I could not find my yoke holder last night. There were fine ground metals in the oil....... gotta be from the pinion bearings. The pinion looks OK as does the ring.. shockingly. will know better once out.

Back to work.

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post #2 of 20 Old 05-15-2021, 12:00 PM
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Sounds like a rolling nightmare. "The Body is truly rust free," If so- can you use it to build one real beauty with the other parts?
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post #3 of 20 Old 05-15-2021, 12:47 PM
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Sounds about typical anymore. Some people shouldn't be working on cars.

PO on my xj hacked wiring everywhere, and decided a 12" long hole across the top rear wheel tub just needed duct tape to fix.

I'm not saying I'm perfect or an expert, but I try to do things properly instead of hacking.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
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post #4 of 20 Old 05-15-2021, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fourspeedman View Post
Sounds like a rolling nightmare. "The Body is truly rust free," If so- can you use it to build one real beauty with the other parts?
I am working on that, but I didn't want to go full restoration on it yet till the 99 was done which occupies
my one bay shop.... on jack stands, and no engine trans or axles on it.... Yeah.

This is where I am at now minus the axle on the 2000 XJ



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post #5 of 20 Old 05-17-2021, 07:47 AM Thread Starter
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Progress,
Stripped, scraped, wire wheel and Pressure Washed to the nth degree, then painted, waiting on parts.



Way more than planed for on this.
since I have 0 faith the Bearing caps were/ are correctly oriented when I disassembled (Took Picts)
Question:
How do I verify the Correct orientation of the caps??? are there tells?

Pulled down the rear axle Found oil in the drums
Pinion and Bearings OK but will change out the outer Bearings and seals New Brakes as are oil soaked.
But I found the steel brake line crushed right at the fitting where the rear brake hose connects to the rear axle.
Question: can you get the wire wound brake lines or do I just replace with plain steel line....Obviously I will replace the hose as I am right there.

Found the correct the Brake lines at Inline tube 35.00 for rear axle set + ship:
https://www.inlinetube.com/products/jcb95r1
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Last edited by Wyo; 05-17-2021 at 08:18 AM.
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post #6 of 20 Old 05-18-2021, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
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Dropping Oil Pan for clean/paint, new gaskets. Need to Reprime oil pump?

While I have the front axle out I want to pull and clean and paint and re-gasket the Oil Pan.

Do I need to re-prime the oil pump if the pan is out a couple days?
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post #7 of 20 Old 05-18-2021, 05:29 PM
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I would, just to make sure it works before firing up the engine.

Mark in Queens- Home of Spiderman and the Ramones
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post #8 of 20 Old 05-19-2021, 01:08 PM
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Yeah, that makes sense.
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post #9 of 20 Old 05-20-2021, 10:23 AM
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i love the title of this. every time i log in i laugh and have to open it to see what is going on
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the xj is the only jeep left in the driveway
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post #10 of 20 Old 05-20-2021, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah ...
Here is my concern, keeping timing after I pull out the Cam syncro.
I have delt with the Dist but I am worried about getting the Syncro back in right.

I hate doing this much to a jeep as Introduce variables with all the thing I am doing.

But this is what I am thinking... Don't move the engine. and try to note the position of the gear on the Syncro ( Electronic sender where the dist goes) and the Position in place where it can be rotated for timing keeping all the same....... I dont know how easy that gear spins on it though and I can't note the rotor Position either on it like a reg dist.

I don't want to do this at all but I suppose I have to.

any advise appreciated.

Of course I already put in Plugs and the valve cover and all the ignition coils pack so TDC is difficult
and I dont wanna pull it back down.
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post #11 of 20 Old 05-20-2021, 01:38 PM
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Jtec showed me this. It is how you align the cam sensor. If you can get the engine to TDC and then the toothpick goes in correctly, then you can get it back exactly the same way. I also used a chisel to make a mark on the CMP and block like we used to do old school. The FSM says only a factory scan tool can tell if the sensor is aligned correctly. I used an old Snap-On 2500 scan tool and it had that feature. It is called SYNC and it means the cam and crank are aligned properly. I found you can be off a bit but not by too much. The hole can be hard to see but it is there.
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post #12 of 20 Old 05-20-2021, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superj View Post
i love the title of this. every time i log in i laugh and have to open it to see what is going on
I know exactly what you mean - & yet, I'd always understood the trick for thread titles was to be short & precise.
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post #13 of 20 Old 05-20-2021, 11:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superj View Post
i love the title of this. every time i log in i laugh and have to open it to see what is going on
I promise to do some updates.......
the stuff I am finding is EPIC Stupid

From battery terminals that are so beat they only fit a 1/4 to 3/8' on the posts to the nearly twisted off upper tranny cooler line when he changed the radiator to no rubber bushings on the radiator support cause he musta thrown them out with the original Radiator........... You Know how much those rubber bushings COST new from mopar and no after market ones!!!!!!!! 21.00 dollars EACH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! FMR.

He did a rear brake job....... and changed out the wheel cylinder.. and twisted off the rear Brake lines
and then on the right side replaced the brake line with standard brake line in the most hair lip retarded F job evah..... I saved it for picts....... Oh and the emergency cables are punctured swollen and frozen I had to just cut the one off........... Rear axle is now on the sawhorses too..... and then there is the U joints......
Oh My Oh My......I think I can salvage the Drive shaft from the beating the end took.......
He beat it like a red headed stepchild. I am using presses and grinders and calipers OH MY!
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post #14 of 20 Old 05-21-2021, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for this!!!!!!! I mean it!

Umm sooo I am thinking this then..... Correct any failing logic here.

So I take off the top of the sender, then I look down and I rotate the engine till the toothpick fits though and then look at the harmonic and verify that the timing mark lines up and mark the base of the sender on the block and I should be good to go right?

then pull the sender to spin the oil pump to reprime, replace the sender and I am GTG??????? assuming I didn't move the engine.

Or am I missing something here?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Fourspeedman View Post
Jtec showed me this. It is how you align the cam sensor. If you can get the engine to TDC and then the toothpick goes in correctly, then you can get it back exactly the same way. I also used a chisel to make a mark on the CMP and block like we used to do old school. The FSM says only a factory scan tool can tell if the sensor is aligned correctly. I used an old Snap-On 2500 scan tool and it had that feature. It is called SYNC and it means the cam and crank are aligned properly. I found you can be off a bit but not by too much. The hole can be hard to see but it is there.
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post #15 of 20 Old 05-21-2021, 01:35 PM
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Yup. That is exactly what I would do. A dab of white paint or fingernail polish will mark it good. But the toothpick is key. To spin the oil pump I used a big old screwdriver that the handle had gotten smashed off. I chucked it into a 1/2" drill and primed away.
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