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post #1 of 22 Old 09-15-2010, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
everhguevara
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replacing heater hose

hi, is there anything special i need to know before replacing the upper heater hose,do i have to drain the radiator? how much coolant am i going to lose? thanks in advance.


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post #2 of 22 Old 09-15-2010, 03:19 PM
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You don't have to drain rad, just have a bucket to catch the little fluid that will come out , If you still have the stock/oem hose clamps on there now I would replace with a quality worm drive hose clamp !!!


just my .02




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post #3 of 22 Old 09-15-2010, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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thanks a lot corn

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post #4 of 22 Old 09-15-2010, 05:06 PM
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The upper heater hose, from the firewall to the thermostat housing, is 11/16", which is not an easy size to find at a parts store.

You can use 5/8", which will be a little tight. Or you can use 3/4", which will be a little loose. But you can clamp it down so that it won't leak.

The other heater hose that goes to the water pump is 5/8".
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post #5 of 22 Old 09-16-2010, 11:23 AM
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Bought my hoses from rockauto.com, Gates factory molded kind, exact replacement, no worries about trying to get the right size (~$20 for both before shipping). I re-used the hose clamps, especially helped at the heater core. At the firewall it is kind of a pain to slip a socket on the screw type of clamp when the original squeeze type were much easier to put back on. Plus you don't have to worry about overtightening and mashing the heater core copper outlets.

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post #6 of 22 Old 09-16-2010, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhall02 View Post
At the firewall it is kind of a pain to slip a socket on the screw type of clamp when the original squeeze type were much easier to put back on. Plus you don't have to worry about overtightening and mashing the heater core copper outlets.
Just need to use a nut diver to tighten , the oem one will rust and will cut into the hoses . You can reuse the old clamps if you want , I would reccomend the worm drive on all hoses. But thats just me .




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post #7 of 22 Old 09-16-2010, 11:39 PM
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I agree with corn on the clamps. OEM uses them because they are fast in an assembly line, and give same torque no matter who is doing them. You will not ruin the heater outlets using normal tightening, just tighten till they feel snug, and retighten after a month or so. If you use factory clamps and they begin to weep, then you cannot retighten.
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post #8 of 22 Old 09-16-2010, 11:51 PM
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how do you remove the heater hose from the core? it has the stock pressed on clamps with no way to loosen anything.

Completely stock, and keeping it that way...


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11) Thou shalt love, cherish, and honor till death, thine square headlights above all other earthy things sayith the Lord.
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post #9 of 22 Old 09-17-2010, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by filluptrk View Post
If you use factory clamps and they begin to weep, then you cannot retighten.
Used the factory clamps last year and no leaking to date Again, you gotta be careful using those screw clamps on that soft copper core.

I usually toss them when replacing the radiator hoses, but that heater core hose clamp is a pain at the firewall, so I thought I would use what was on there and see how it went. So far so good.

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post #10 of 22 Old 09-17-2010, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1990JEEPXJ View Post
how do you remove the heater hose from the core? it has the stock pressed on clamps with no way to loosen anything.
The OEM clamps are spring loaded, not pressed on. Once the clamp is sprung open with pliers and slid off, the hose may need to be cut with a utility knife to remove it from the nipple of the heater core tube.

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post #11 of 22 Old 09-17-2010, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ Jeff View Post
The OEM clamps are spring loaded, not pressed on. Once the clamp is sprung open with pliers and slid off, the hose may need to be cut with a utility knife to remove it from the nipple of the heater core tube.
just don't do what i did, when i was cutting the hose from the heater core i accidentally damage the little hose that goes into the firewall, didn't notice anything until i turned on my heater and the air was only coming out of the defroster.

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post #12 of 22 Old 09-17-2010, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ Jeff View Post
The OEM clamps are spring loaded, not pressed on. Once the clamp is sprung open with pliers and slid off, the hose may need to be cut with a utility knife to remove it from the nipple of the heater core tube.
so the tube coming from the input to the coolant resevoir is spring loaded?

Completely stock, and keeping it that way...


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11) Thou shalt love, cherish, and honor till death, thine square headlights above all other earthy things sayith the Lord.
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post #13 of 22 Old 09-18-2010, 09:11 AM
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so the tube coming from the input to the coolant resevoir is spring loaded?
That depends on the year of XJ in question. The closed system reservoirs will probably have spring type clamps as OEM. The open reservoirs will use either no clamp, a crimp type clamp, or a spring clamp, depending on year (and mood of Jeep during the production run).

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post #14 of 22 Old 01-09-2011, 02:01 PM
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heater hose replacement 88 xj

questions : can I just replace the hoses and keep the metal Y pipes for the heater ? It looks like original factory hose's and the rubber portion is pressed onto the metal pipes where the heater valve is etc.. looks like 2 different size hose's too ?? also expsanion tank is leaking around the hose fittings.any easy fixes for the tank or do I need a new one
Thanks !!
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post #15 of 22 Old 01-09-2011, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowufo View Post
questions : can I just replace the hoses and keep the metal Y pipes for the heater ? It looks like original factory hose's and the rubber portion is pressed onto the metal pipes where the heater valve is etc.. looks like 2 different size hose's too ?? also expsanion tank is leaking around the hose fittings.any easy fixes for the tank or do I need a new one
Thanks !!
I replaced all the hoses on my '90--IIRC I got the full kit from TeamCherokee, which included a new metal "Y" for the heater control valve with separate hoses and clamps. It wasn't wicked cheap, though.

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