Rebuilt 1988 XJ engine won’t start - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 22 Old 04-13-2020, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
Chevelle001
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Rebuilt 1988 XJ engine won’t start

Does anyone know which wire is the power for the crankshaft position sensor?

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post #2 of 22 Old 04-14-2020, 12:44 AM
jtec
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on of the regular members here "cruiser54" is the renix go to. hope it helps .

http://cruiser54.com/?p=50

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #3 of 22 Old 04-14-2020, 12:56 AM Thread Starter
Chevelle001
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I’m troubleshooting a crank no start situation. The CPS that I’m checking is new and so far the ohms and volts check checked good. Is there supposed to be voltage going to the CPS from the ECM??
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post #4 of 22 Old 04-14-2020, 01:02 AM Thread Starter
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The MAP sensor also checked good and I have spark at the spark plugs, just not sure if it’s a weak spark or strong enough. I’m using a tester that goes from the Coil to the distributor and it lights up orange when cranking.
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post #5 of 22 Old 04-14-2020, 01:09 AM Thread Starter
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Also, I have good fuel pressure at the fuel rail and all the grounds have been checked and cleaned. Engine turns but won’t start and I have no idea what else to check. Any ideas???
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post #6 of 22 Old 04-14-2020, 01:26 AM
jtec
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lets try BASICS.
do you have spark at the plugs? crisp white or blueish spark.
do the injectors pulse - a noid light makes this easy.
What is fuel pressure PSI?

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #7 of 22 Old 04-14-2020, 04:45 AM
CJ7-Tim
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In addition to the basics above, are you 100% positive the distributor was installed correctly at TDC ?

“We the people are the rightful masters of both Congress and the Courts,
not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow the men who would pervert the Constitution” Abraham Lincoln, 1859.
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post #8 of 22 Old 04-14-2020, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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OK, so, I did more troubleshooting today and I used the Noid to check the injector circuit and it checked good. The light would turn on during cranking. Also used starting fluid and as I was cranking I heard a pop and sparks came out of the throttle body, I tried it again while pumping the gas pedal and again a popping sound from the throttle body but no sparks. I have a dim light at the spark plug sight glass.
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post #9 of 22 Old 04-14-2020, 12:59 PM Thread Starter
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I’m sure I installed the distributor correctly but I’m going to see if moving it one way or the other changes anything.
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post #10 of 22 Old 04-14-2020, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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I also tried a different ECM and I noticed no difference.
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post #11 of 22 Old 04-14-2020, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
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I’m getting a dim orange color light between the coil and distributor. Any ideas????
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post #12 of 22 Old 04-14-2020, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevelle001 View Post
I’m getting a dim orange color light between the coil and distributor. Any ideas????
I am not familiar with the spark tester your using SO I could not advise on what color flash is 'good'.

Plugs are easy enough to remove and observe spark right at plug. Confirm correct gap and see if fuel or oil soaked.
As far as plugs what brand type and heat # are you using.

As mentioned the timing of the dist, first you need to confirm #1 cylinder is on TDC compression.

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #13 of 22 Old 04-14-2020, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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Yes when I installed the distributor #1 piston was TDC, harmonic balancer Mark was at 0. When I dropped the distributor In the button was facing 5 o’clock position. I’m still going to remove it and try again. I’ll also be able to look at the spark plug
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post #14 of 22 Old 04-15-2020, 10:23 PM
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Rebuilt engine? Maybe cam and crank are not in time?
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post #15 of 22 Old 04-16-2020, 06:51 PM
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^^^^What he said^^^^^. The best way to time an engine is to take out all the spark plugs. Then ground each plug wire. Now have someone crank the engine while you watch the timing marks. This way there is no compression load on the engine and it can spin fairly quickly. Make your adjustments and then tighten the distributor hold down bolt. Then test again in case it moved. Now the timing is perfect and other things can be looked at. Just be aware that the timing can still be 180° off. Test to be sure you are working off #1 TDC.

Mark in Queens- Home of Spiderman and the Ramones
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