NP231 to NP242 double swap - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 10-09-2010, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
theducksguts
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NP231 to NP242 double swap

The goal is to complete a swap from a 2000 XJ with the NP242 to a 1999 XJ with the NP231. My plans are to make them function as they would from the factory.

Why? Well, some of you know that I built up the 2000 leaving the Mrs with my old Jeep. She really likes the NP242 for winter driving. She can just engage it and not think about it. I like that too because no one likes their transfer cases binding.

Things you will need:
- Metric Sockets, 8mm, 13mm, 15mm, and 18mm
- Ratchet and breaker bar.
- 9/16th wrenches of various shapes and sizes.
- Jack stands and floor jack.
- Wheel chucks or something to block wheels from moving.
- Various odds and ends, oil catch, hex head tool, pliers, screw drivers, deadblow hammer, a friend to help, beer, pizza.

The first step was to remove the NP242 from my 00XJ. First make sure that you support the transmission on a jack stand or floor jack. Four 15mm bolts and nuts hold the transmission support cross member. Four nuts hold the transmission mount to the cross member. They are 13mm nuts. Remove all of them allowing you to take the cross member off.

Now is a good time to empty your T-Case if you haven't already. The late model XJ's have a hex head fill and drain plug. Remove the fill plug first, that way you don't get stuck with an empty T-Case that you can't fill. Then you can remove the drain plug and drain out the ATF.

Remove your front and rear drive shaft. Make sure your E-brake is on and wheels blocked from rolling.

You have to remove the Transmission mount to get at the bottom nut holding the transfer case on. It is held on by 2 18mm bolts that are in place with Blue Loctite. I used a deep wall impact socket and a breaker bar to get them loose.

Then remove the mount and the plate with the exhaust mount on it.



The next step is to start removing all of the linkage and wiring to the Transfer Case. There are two wiring harness clips. One to the tail shaft speedo sensor, and the other is above the engagement level and controls the "Full Time" and "Part Time" lights on the dash. I'll get to that later.

The linkage lever is connected to the engagement lever. It is held in by a rubber grommet and is easy to pry out with a flat head screw driver when the case is in 4Low.



You are now just 6 nuts away from sliding that baby out of there. The nuts are 9/16ths. I used a variety of wrenches to get at them. The wrench that was the most helpful was a little 4 inch stubby box ended wrench. Made it easier to work in those tight spaces. 5 of the nuts are able to be seen but there is 1 that is hidden in a little cubby hole beside the exhaust pipe. You can get at it with the stubby wrench.

--Point with noting. The nuts are held to studs that go into the case. On the other side you may find some bolts that hold the T-Case mount to the Transmission. Do not remove the bolts as much as you might be tempted to. You will have ATF everywhere. Others have done this. Just thought I would mention it.

Once you have all of the nuts out you can then support the T-Case and slide it off. You can use a flat head screwdriver to help separate the case but don't go crazy. It is aluminum after all.



Take a picture, have a beer and marvel at your accomplishment. Now, on to Part II



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post #2 of 11 Old 10-09-2010, 08:38 PM
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Haha. Women...make like interesting, don't they?
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post #3 of 11 Old 10-09-2010, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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Part II

Now that you have a non functioning rig you probably want to do something about that. Here are the two cases side by side. On the left is the NP242 on the right is the NP231



They are of similar size at first glance but the 242 is about 1/2 an inch longer by my measurements and is a whole lot bigger. The NP242 is also different in that it isn't exactly Plug and Play. The connector that controls the lights for 4x4 are different between the two. 3 wires for the NP242 and 2 for the NP231. There are ways around this, or you could just leave it. Either way, I will get to that later.

The re-installation of the second case. In this case the 242 is reverse of what we just did. Bolt up the case with the 6 nuts setting them to 26 ft lbs of torque (although I don't know how you would get to all/any of them with a torque wench). Reconnect the speedometer sensor, stow away the dash indicator harness for later. Reinstall the vent tube, exhaust hanger, trans mount, cross member, drive shafts.

Fill with about 1.5 qt's of Dexron III/Mercron. Seal her up and manually shift the lever into 2WD. Take it for a short drive to see how things are. Mine wasn't doing great, but I'll get to that later.

Next step is to setup the linkage. You are going to need one of these.



Whether you are going from a 231 to a 242 or swapping in a 231 after you have had a 242 you will need the shifter plate and bracket. You do need to remove the center console to get to the bracket but you do not need to swap out the whole console. The selector plate pops right off, then you need to use a Phillips screw driver to remove the console, then using your 5/16ths socket (?) can't remember, remove the shifter bracket to be reinstalled on your rig.



You can then set the linkage. Crawl back under your rig and look for the linkage "tightener" bolt. It is a 1/2 inch bolt, loosen it up and install your linkage arm to the engagement lever on the T-Case. It is easiest to do this when in 4LOW.



This is where it helps to have a friend in the Jeep shifting through the case as you check the linkage and engagement. Tighten the bolt when everything is perfect, knowing you probably are going to have to be under there adjusting it again.

The 4x4 engagement lights are another story and not quite as easy.


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post #4 of 11 Old 10-09-2010, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mkonyn View Post
Haha. Women...make like interesting, don't they?
hey, she approves all my projects and budgets. I have to keep her happy.


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post #5 of 11 Old 10-09-2010, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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So here comes the point where I have gotten stuck thus far. It's not the lights. It's some random vibration and shaking I am getting when accelerating.

It's not the linkage because it does this when disconnected and manually engaged in 2WD. It also does it in all gears, in all modes of 4x4.

First thing I am going to be checking tomorrow are the drive shafts. I will pull the front first and test it out. If it is better, than the issue would then be the front DS or the angle/alignment of the DS. Or U-Joints.

If it isn't the Front DS I am going to pull the rear. I know I will loose some ATF but I will know right away if it is causing the problems. U-Joints possibly. Length? I'm not sure. Good thing I have plenty of spares lying around.



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post #6 of 11 Old 10-09-2010, 08:59 PM
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Nice write up. You should not loose any ATF out of your t-case, since they are sealed in the 97+ XJ's.

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post #7 of 11 Old 10-09-2010, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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How to deal with the dash lights

This one I am still thinking about. There are a couple schools of though from what I can search.

I frequent NAXJA as well as Pirate and here is what I have come up with so far.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayden View Post
For anyone that was interested in the wiring issues on the 97+, I have some answers. This is all for 97+.......The NP242 has a 3 pin sensor and the NP231 has a 2 pin sensor. On the 231 there is a solid black wire which is the ground and there is a back wire with a red tracer, that is the wire that lights the part time light. The 242 sensor has the same 2 wires and then a black wire with a white tracer, that wire lights the full time light. Now, with a factory 231 the back wire with white tracer is in the main harness and does connect to the back of the instrument cluster. The wire ends at a plug located at the back of the engine compartment on the passanger side. There are 3 plugs all pretty close to each other, If you look at them you will see the widest plug has a black wire with white tracer on one side and not the other. So, to make the light work on the dash after adding the new 242 case I just ran a wire from the sensor and tapped it into the black wire with white tracer in that plug.

Hayden
and...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparkman View Post
The wiring was plug and play with the 56041612AA jumper wire that I got from the dealer for $15.

So apparently there is a wiring adapter out there. I have yet to find it on any of the Mopar Parts sites so if you can find it, please let me know.



I need to get these vibes figured out before I work on the dash lamps.


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post #8 of 11 Old 10-09-2010, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justanotherjpr View Post
Nice write up. You should not loose any ATF out of your t-case, since they are sealed in the 97+ XJ's.
That's what I thought but I was getting conflicting reports. I'm going to take it easy anyways. I can always drive my TJ places if I need to.


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post #9 of 11 Old 10-10-2010, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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Haven't had much time to work on it today. Just took it for a drive to the grocery store. If you are easy on the throttle you barely notice the vibes, but if you give it some gas then you can. It sounds like it is coming from the case.

I will have more time to troubleshoot tomorrow.


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post #10 of 11 Old 10-10-2010, 10:43 PM
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Interested in the wiring outcome - a buddy and I are going to swap the 231 for the 242 in our vehicles.
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post #11 of 11 Old 10-11-2010, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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I have determined and corrected the issue that was causing the vibrations at low speed. The NP242 is larger in diameter than the 231 and was making contact with the Transmission tunnel. I dropped the Transmission cross member 1 inch and it has solved the vibration issue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by the_weirdo View Post
Interested in the wiring outcome - a buddy and I are going to swap the 231 for the 242 in our vehicles.
I believe it is way easier to go to a NP231 from an NP242 because you are going from 3 wires to 2. I believe you would take the Black wire and join that with the Black/Red wire and test it. The other wire is ground. Try it. I haven't gotten that far yet.


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