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post #1 of 20 Old 08-13-2020, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
Becca_78
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Need Floorpan Advice

I’ve finally gotten around to fixing my floor pans. I’m going to replace the full front driver side pan. I’m planning on lap welding and seam sealing, since I have very little to no welding experience. I’ll probably do a patch on the front passenger side. There are some holes (mostly collateral damage from removing the seat mount), but I don’t think the whole pan needs to be replaced. I also have to replace both seat mounts.

Now to my question. The rest of the floor is not in bad shape, but there are several holes in different spots (mostly less than 2” - a few are tiny). And a few of them are inside the frame rail so I can’t get access to the back side of the repair. What’s the best way to go about repairing these areas? I was thinking about trying the structural adhesive and gluing a patch on top (after treating any remaining rust) or maybe lap welding a patch, but I won’t be able to get to the back side to seam seal and I’m worried water getting trapped somewhere if I can’t full seal the entire repair. I also thought about patching with fiberglass.

I want a good/proper repair that I don’t have to spend a lot of time on (compared to cutting out the metal and butt welding in a patch - I know that’s the best way). I’ll try and get some pics up later to give you a better idea of what the areas look like. Thanks!

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post #2 of 20 Old 08-13-2020, 11:12 AM
CJ7-Tim
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When I installed my full floor pan, I used uni-body adhesive and a few screws to hold it until the adhesive dried. The results were excellent. Welding floor pans is difficult, I have tried that. Uni-body adhesive is just as strong as welding.

I would paint any patches on the inaccessible side, prep the edges for adhesive on a lap joint, use a few rivets or screws, and call it good. There are plenty of other spots that will rust through before your patches go bad.

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post #3 of 20 Old 08-13-2020, 11:34 AM
2oldjeeps
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i set pans in a bed of seam seal, screwed and bolted after cutting out most rust. paint with good rust killer.
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post #4 of 20 Old 08-13-2020, 11:36 AM
2oldjeeps
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new pan...b4 new seat bracket.
i used self tapping screws then bolts/nuts to the frame . its solid
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post #5 of 20 Old 08-13-2020, 11:46 AM
2oldjeeps
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thats my first real jeep,at 168000, now 179000 anr runs sooo good. love it.
worth all the work, dont like new ones. dont want any...
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post #6 of 20 Old 08-13-2020, 04:54 PM Thread Starter
Becca_78
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Here are a few pics of some of the smaller holes that will need repair.
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post #7 of 20 Old 08-14-2020, 04:39 AM
CJ7-Tim
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Rust holes are always 100% larger than they appear at first inspection. I would buy a new cargo floor pan from Classic2Current and use unibody adhesive. Smaller patches can use epoxy and rivets.

Seam sealer is not an adhesive.

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post #8 of 20 Old 08-15-2020, 07:48 PM
rjbruzan
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I recently did some floor repairs on my 98 XJ. A combination of welding and 3M panel bonding adhesive. The patches can be lap jointed as the adhesive has excellent corrosion fighting properties. Then the whole area covered with a rust converter, an epoxy primer then painted with Rust-Opium. Inside the rockers was sprayed with fluid film. As much as possible.

Ron

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post #9 of 20 Old 08-16-2020, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for input! My original idea was to glue in the floor pans, but, after researching, I was under the impression that floor pans were a structural component on unibody vehicles and should be welding in. I know welding is the best way, but I’m not going for a factory looking repair. Just a good, solid repair that will hold up for years to come. This is a big job and I don’t want to have to do it again anytime soon!

I would like to learn how to weld, and I know this would be a good project to learn on, but I also just want to get this done so I can get back to driving my Jeep!

If I did glue the pans in, I would probably use sheet metal screws to pull the metal down in areas that I couldn’t get a clamp on (I could probably get a clamp around the rocker). Space them about an inch apart? I also figure you’d remove those screws after the adhesive had cured because you don’t want them poking through the bottom of the floor. What do you fill the holes with? Seam sealer? Some type of metal glaze?
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post #10 of 20 Old 08-17-2020, 11:12 AM
CJ7-Tim
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If you follow the instructions, uni-body structural adhesive is as strong as welding, and 150% easier. You do not want to make a floor pan job or other body work your first welding project. Seam sealer will be fine for the screw holes.

.
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post #11 of 20 Old 08-17-2020, 02:53 PM
2oldjeeps
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i left screws in. sealed over the threads. bolt/nut at frame..

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post #12 of 20 Old 08-17-2020, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
Becca_78
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If I decide to glue, I might just rivet it as well and leave the rivets in. I guess I could glue and rivet the seat mounts too?
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post #13 of 20 Old 08-18-2020, 04:50 AM
CJ7-Tim
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Yes, you can.

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post #14 of 20 Old 08-18-2020, 04:20 PM
rjbruzan
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The seat brackets can also be bolted in to the main "frame" rail flanges.
The autobody adhesives are very user freindly to work with but not cheap.
Here is the adhesive and the gun needed to apply it.

https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/pro...adhesive-08115
https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/pro...ator-gun-08571

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post #15 of 20 Old 08-19-2020, 03:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Becca_78 View Post
Thanks for input! My original idea was to glue in the floor pans, but, after researching, I was under the impression that floor pans were a structural component on unibody vehicles and should be welding in.
You are right, but the extra strength from those wafer thin panels is negligible. They called it "Uniframe" at first due to resistance from traditional Jeep buyers to ditching the separate frame. The U sections under the floor are far tougher than the floors.

in some places you will not pass testing with a non-welded repair to a structural steel component so you need to be careful where you are. If there is no testing or it is relaxed about glue, then by all means glue them in. Glue works quite well but you may want screws or rivets at edges so they do not peel in an accident.

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