My first 4.0 extraction - Page 6 - JeepForum.com
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post #76 of 108 Old 12-30-2019, 01:06 PM
Ralph77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michaelj51 View Post
Sorry Ralph, didn't look, just had them order, picked them up, and installed. Plastic envelope with a NAPA label and #. Didn't save it.
Any chance it was a FelPro with a Napa label on it?
Look like this?

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/FPBE...Input=es+72962

I ask cause this was all I could find and wondered what the deal was with the 4th O-Ring.
But thinking about it now it looks a universal kit for all XJ's.
Maybe you use 3 out of the 4 depending on the specific year?

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post #77 of 108 Old 12-30-2019, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
Fourspeedman
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The set I just ordered is an actual MOPAR part. It just arrived. Looks like the correct set. In the MAHLE set the two inners were way too big. These look good.
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post #78 of 108 Old 12-30-2019, 01:57 PM
Michaelj51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralph77 View Post
Any chance it was a FelPro with a Napa label on it?
Look like this?

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/FPBE...Input=es+72962

I ask cause this was all I could find and wondered what the deal was with the 4th O-Ring.
But thinking about it now it looks a universal kit for all XJ's.
Maybe you use 3 out of the 4 depending on the specific year?
Could very well have been! That said three of the four fit perfectly.
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post #79 of 108 Old 01-02-2020, 10:41 AM
BaileyNB
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There are different O-Rings based on which oil filter adapter is installed. I haven't read through the entire thread, so I apologize if this has been covered. Sometime during the 1992 model year is when Chrysler changed adapters and bolts, I know this because I have the older one and had to order the individual O-Rings that did not come as a kit. The kits should work for 1993+ model years, Mopar part number 4720363. If I'm reading my parts manual correctly, it's a 2.48" ring for the adapter (unchanged between versions) and the bolt itself has two o-rings that are not the same between versions.



I know I ordered a FelPro kit and it did not fit my 1992, but should fit a 1993+.
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post #80 of 108 Old 01-02-2020, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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I got the new "O" rings for the adapter. Too bad I cannot get at the bolt with the T-60 TORX socket I have. I had measured on my '00 XJ and I thought it would fit but no go. Removing the engine mount bolts and raising/lowering the engine did not work. So I searched on here and found all the problems involved with this. On another search I accidentally located a tool I think will work. It is a Bondhus #31860 T-60 TORX L-wrench. Reviews say it gets in there between the bolt and frame. It comes in a short and long shank version, this one being the long. Someone also cut a short piece off the long end so it can be used with a ratcheting wrench box end wrench. I am ordering the L-wrench as well as a DeWalt T-60 socket so that I can punch the TORX end out. Covering all the bases. It will come right off as I just torqued it on last week. After wasting hours on that I went to put the starter back on. One bolt did not fit. I guess when I unbolted it I did not notice the idiot engineers spec'd one metric bolt and one SAE bolt for the starter. What? They gagged over using two of the same size bolt just because one would be a zillionth overkill? I used Ralph77's parts .pdf to figure that out. That .pdf is golden Ralph- thanks again.

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post #81 of 108 Old 01-02-2020, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Fourspeedman View Post
I got the new "O" rings for the adapter. Too bad I cannot get at the bolt with the T-60 TORX socket I have. I had measured on my '00 XJ and I thought it would fit but no go. Removing the engine mount bolts and raising/lowering the engine did not work. So I searched on here and found all the problems involved with this. On another search I accidentally located a tool I think will work. It is a Bondhus #31860 T-60 TORX L-wrench. Reviews say it gets in there between the bolt and frame. It comes in a short and long shank version, this one being the long. Someone also cut a short piece off the long end so it can be used with a ratcheting wrench box end wrench. I am ordering the L-wrench as well as a DeWalt T-60 socket so that I can punch the TORX end out. Covering all the bases. It will come right off as I just torqued it on last week. After wasting hours on that I went to put the starter back on. One bolt did not fit. I guess when I unbolted it I did not notice the idiot engineers spec'd one metric bolt and one SAE bolt for the starter. What? They gagged over using two of the same size bolt just because one would be a zillionth overkill? I used Ralph77's parts .pdf to figure that out. That .pdf is golden Ralph- thanks again.
No problem.

I have read the stories of guys trying to get at that T-60. That's why I was surprised that you put the engine first.
Allen wrench style Torx. Don't think I have seen them before.
I pulled the specs off of the Home Depot page for that.

Long leg: 7.2 in"
Short leg: 1.75"

So if guys use a 3/8" ratchet and the appropriate size socket to use the Torx after they punch it out of the socket thinking that would longer then the Bondhus.
I saw a video where a guy used a serpentine belt tool and an impact Torx.
As a matter fact while I own a Torx Set when I need sizes I don't have or am replacing ones I just go for the impact ones now. Just in the larger sizes though.
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post #82 of 108 Old 01-02-2020, 04:29 PM
Michaelj51
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I used a t60 short bit for 3/4 drive that I bought from Snap-On. A 3/4 box wrench [with a doubled cheater] to break it loose, and just the wrench to loosen it to hand removal. [ about $18. for the torx I recall ]
I did remove one motor mount bolt, but that is all.

No room for a torque wrench, so the final install was a "guesstimate" regarding torque. Service Manual says 50lb.
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post #83 of 108 Old 01-02-2020, 04:44 PM
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If your talking about the t60 bolt holding the oil filter adapter in, I just changed the O ring last month. I went to HD and bought a socket set that had a t60 bit in a socket. I hammered out the bit from the socket and used an open end wrench, (maybe 12 or 14mm) Directly on the bit. Used a piece of pipe as a cheater. I got it out and replaced it. Was a pain in the *** because the open end wrench will move forward and then you have nothing biting. Try to have someone help you just hold the wrench in place so it doesn’t slip and it will be easy.

Good luck
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post #84 of 108 Old 01-03-2020, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I know, I should have waited. But my Grandson was available and the weather was perfect so I just did it. It is not leaking because the outer "O" ring was the same so it is new. It is the inners I am worried about with them being 20 years old. I know once I get a tool to fit the bolt will come out EZPZ. And it may never leak at all but why take the chance?
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post #85 of 108 Old 01-04-2020, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camaro45th View Post
If your talking about the t60 bolt holding the oil filter adapter in, I just changed the O ring last month. I went to HD and bought a socket set that had a t60 bit in a socket. I hammered out the bit from the socket and used an open end wrench, (maybe 12 or 14mm) Directly on the bit. Used a piece of pipe as a cheater. I got it out and replaced it. Was a pain in the *** because the open end wrench will move forward and then you have nothing biting. Try to have someone help you just hold the wrench in place so it doesn’t slip and it will be easy.

Good luck
Thanks- I used most of what you suggested. Today it quit raining long enough to get the adapter off. I also took a T-60 socket and banged the bit out. Then I took a 12mm crowfoot flare socket and put that on the bit. Wrapping some black electrical tape on the bit helps hold it in place. First I tried a serpentine belt tool but it had too much travel. No room to swing it. Then I used a 3/8" breaker bar and a cheater pipe. That did the trick and it broke loose. Then I put a 12mm ratcheting box end on the bit and worked out the bolt. Once out I changed the "O" rings. Getting the bolt back in to the housing with the new rings can be difficult. Before I had used the engine block to screw the bolt in which drew the rings in. No room for that now but instead I used the oil filter. The threads are the same and as I screwed in the bolt it drew the rings right in. Then it got dark and wet again so maybe tomorrow I can put the adapter back on.
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post #86 of 108 Old 01-05-2020, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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Sunny and cold today so I put the adapter back on. I used the T-60 bit and the 12mm ratcheting box end. It takes some maneuvering to get the housing, bolt, and wrenches lined up with hole but I did it without too much cussing. Then I bolted up the starter wire and put the connector on. Of course the connector is busted and won't stay on. Usually it is the little red Aggravation Assurance Connector thingy that breaks but this time it is the retainer clip inside the connector itself. That will need replacing now. While searching I found a picture of the engineering team that put these XJ's together. They seem pretty proud of the accessibility factor.

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post #87 of 108 Old 01-05-2020, 11:36 AM
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It's what happens when you stuff 10lbs of ****e in a 5lb box.... still my favorite rig,,, though what does that say about me?
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post #88 of 108 Old 01-05-2020, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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I have my Grandson chasing the threads in the head. Tomorrow we may try installing it. I am old enough to remember dipping head bolts in engine oil before screwing them in. The FSM says nothing about that. EDIT: Yikes another can-'o-worms. Opinions all over the place.

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post #89 of 108 Old 01-05-2020, 06:30 PM
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Don't forget the sealant on that front driver's side bolt that goes into the water jacket!

Good Luck.
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post #90 of 108 Old 01-05-2020, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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sealant on that front driver's side bolt
#11 bolt- is that why it gets only 100 ft lbs vs 110 for the others? If so that would say no oil on the other bolts? Affects torque?

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