My first 4.0 extraction - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 39 Old 11-14-2019, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
Fourspeedman
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My first 4.0 extraction

Hello all. After lurking here for years I joined up for the hard-to-find Jeep information. Thank you all for the info I have gleaned over time. I own a 2000 XJ and my daughter owns a 2001 XJ. The '01 has 100k and a cracked 0331 head. Oil pressure is 8 psi hot. The motor otherwise runs smooth and quiet. Unfortunately the cracked head's coolant leak probably ruined the cam bearings. From what I have read getting new cam bearings in is so difficult I might as well remove the engine. In my area (NYC) TUPY heads are impossible to find as are the late 4.0 engines in junk yards. I have determined the best way forward is to get a new head and rebuild the short block. I only want to do this once. I learned long ago to let a real machinist do the precision work and I will do the grunt work. I have begun stripping the engine for removal. I will have to remove the head/intake/exhaust/cats/head pipe as a unit. The fasteners are rusted away and impossible to reach anyway. That will make pulling the block much easier too. My first question is about the fuel injection crank sensor. My factory manual says if removed and the engine serviced then it must be re-timed. The trick is to slip a toothpick in the holes to align it before inserting and engaging the oil pump driveshaft. I want to verify the timing before I remove the sensor. My reluctor has a hole but the housing does not. At TDC the reluctor hole looks to be where it should but with no hole in the housing how can I be sure? There seems to be a dimple on the housing where the hole should be so maybe I can just drill one once it is out. I can paint a dot where the hole lines up as a guide. To be safe I also staked a line on the housing base and the block to go by later. Here are some pics of my progress. EDIT: Photobucket pics are blurry- so I deleted them.


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post #2 of 39 Old 11-14-2019, 11:53 PM
jtec
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FYI "fuel injection crank sensor" is refereed as the CMP the cam position sensor.
THE DIMPLE MAY BE A PLUG - WHEN IT'S REMOVED INSPECT IT.
aTIP HERE - YOU WILL NEED TDC COMPRESSION TO SET THE SYNC (TIMING) TOOTHPICK OF CMP REMEMBER THERE ARE 2 TDC'S.

Did you try 'saw mill auto recyclers (junkyard) yonkers ?

8 PSI OIL IS LOW but THIS IS A LOW PRESSURE SYSTEM SPEC IS ONLY 13 - YOU DID USE A GOOD GAUGE, CORRECT OIL - CLEAN FILTER ? ANYWAY A NEW PUMP WOULD BE SUGGESTED WITH A REBUILD.

sORRY FOR CAPS STICKING KEYS
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When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #3 of 39 Old 11-15-2019, 08:29 AM Thread Starter
Fourspeedman
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OK a CMP it is. Yes I will see if it is a plug. I did not want to remove it just yet. The manual says the timing MUST be checked with a dealer scan tool. Is that so or can it be re-aligned manually by marking it's position like I did? I know there is a range to allow for timing chain stretch. I figure if I mark the factory position it should be correct for the new timing set. Will the OBD2 inform me if it is off? 8 psi is super low when my 175000 mile '00 is at 25 psi hot idle. I used a 0-30 psi mechanical gauge so sensitive it pulses as the oil pump operates. No, I have not checked every junk yard in the area but I have friends in the industry that came up empty. Seeing what an immense PITA this operation is turning into I decided not to chance a used engine. This XJ will probably be given to my Grandson who just started driving. I want it to be trouble free and last another 100,000 miles.

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post #4 of 39 Old 11-15-2019, 12:53 PM
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glad you corrected those pictures - blamed my eyesight last night.

With a new timing chain, being on TDC compression and using tooth pick to set CMP I think you will be ok.
The scanner does NOT have to be a dealer only tool the function is on most professional scanners. It is called SYNC - where the CMP tdc is checked and set within several degrees of CKP (crank position sensor) TDC, I believe there is a code that would arise if the spec is out of tolerance. IIRC p1391

The 2 sensors CMP and CKP we recommend using OEM components as for the o2 sensors use NTK brand or OEM .

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #5 of 39 Old 11-15-2019, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
Fourspeedman
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AWESOME info! That is what I came here for. I have an Autel scanner and a friend has a Snap-on SOLUS. Hopefully one of them can test that. The P1391 code shows to be "loss of CMP or CKP has occurred" like a wire disconnected or a sensor failed. So maybe P1390 is it? " relationship between Cam and Crank signals is not correct". That assumes a timing chain tooth skip but having the CMP out of range would cause the same issue I think. All the sensors are working well at the moment so only mechanical issues are being addressed. Yeah, Photobucket is really horrible these days but there are workarounds.
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post #6 of 39 Old 11-16-2019, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
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Here is a pic of the CMP. There is definitely no hole in the housing.
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post #7 of 39 Old 11-17-2019, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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Worse, talking to the son-in-law, when he changed the leaky oil pan he figured why not change the 100k oil pump too. That makes sense as it is right in front of you. But doing so he removed the CMP. Is that necessary to do the oil pump? Does the shaft fall out? Anyway he said when he tried to start it the engine would not start. Then he read up on it and found out about the timing. So he just turned it until it started and then kept moving it around until it ran the best. Unscientific but functional I guess. But now there is no factory setting to go by. Today I pulled the head along with the manifolds, cats, and head pipe. I had to cut the bolts off at the head pipe flange where it met the exhaust pipe flange. Once out I managed to get the crusty cat pipe bolts loose from the exhaust manifold. That took lots of Gibbs oil, time, and a 15mm offset wrench. But nothing broke. Then I had at the manifold bolts. They came off easier but there is no way any would have come apart while in the Jeep. Working on a dolly was hard enough- in the car was impossible. I even got the 100k O2 sensors off and those will get replaced just because.
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post #8 of 39 Old 11-17-2019, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
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The exhaust manifold flange springy nuts are trashed. All I'm seeing is these Dorman units. How do they work? The heads are serrated, do you force them in from the top and the nuts go on from below?
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post #9 of 39 Old 11-18-2019, 02:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fourspeedman View Post
The exhaust manifold flange springy nuts are trashed. All I'm seeing is these Dorman units. How do they work? The heads are serrated, do you force them in from the top and the nuts go on from below?
I bought new factory hardware there when I replaced the entire exhaust, new front dual cat back, on my '00.
The bolts are 6505754AA and 4 cost me $18.
The clips are 6506546AA and 4 cost me $13.
I am sure I could have used something like that or even just nuts and bolts but I just bit the bullet and replaced with factory parts.
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post #10 of 39 Old 11-18-2019, 07:43 AM Thread Starter
Fourspeedman
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Thanks Ralph77. I didn't know the parts numbers. Now I see they are available. I'll probably do as you did and stay stock hardware.
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post #11 of 39 Old 11-18-2019, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Fourspeedman View Post
Thanks Ralph77. I didn't know the parts numbers. Now I see they are available. I'll probably do as you did and stay stock hardware.
No problem.
Sending you a PM.
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post #12 of 39 Old 11-18-2019, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
Fourspeedman
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I got the PM. You are a gentleman and a scholar! Thank you for that link.
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post #13 of 39 Old 11-18-2019, 12:17 PM
Ralph77
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I got the PM. You are a gentleman and a scholar! Thank you for that link.
You are welcome but I ain't no gentleman. LOL.
Not really that bright either. MLOL.
But I do know how to Google things. EMLOL.
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post #14 of 39 Old 11-22-2019, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
Fourspeedman
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Even though the head is off it is very hard to reach the bell housing bolts. I was thinking I could raise the block off the mounts and remove the mounts. Then I could lower the block some to get at those bolts. Any ideas?
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post #15 of 39 Old 11-25-2019, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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Another headache. The top most bell housing bolts are external Torx? Or splined?
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