Liberty rear disc to XJ conversion - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 20 Old 12-05-2017, 11:17 PM Thread Starter
Jayridespow
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Liberty rear disc to XJ conversion

Iíve found a couple of Libertyís with rear disc at my local JY. Is it a straight bolt on conversion for anyone who has done it. Is it a *****? Is it worth it with 33ís? Do I need to convert the master cylinder and proportioning valve?


JDL
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Wolf Creek pass
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post #2 of 20 Old 12-06-2017, 05:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayridespow View Post
Iíve found a couple of Libertyís with rear disc at my local JY. Is it a straight bolt on conversion for anyone who has done it. Is it a *****? Is it worth it with 33ís? Do I need to convert the master cylinder and proportioning valve?
It's easy.

Just get the "guts" from the Liberty prop valve.
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post #3 of 20 Old 12-06-2017, 06:04 AM
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It's a direct swap from the Liberty, bolt on upgrade. And in my opinion it's a worthy upgrade. I run ZJ rear disk brakes and really like them. Ran them with 33's for about a year. Only part of the swap that I believe won't be straight pull from the Liberty and apply to your Cherokee is the e brake cables, but you can modify your stock cables to work with the liberty brakes.

88 YJ with a 4.6l stroker, AX-15, NP231, 2.5" lift, 4.10's and 33's
2000 Silver XJ, 4.0, AW4 with 350k+, Locked C8.25 w/ Chromos, Trussed hp30, 4.56's, Stiffened, IRO leafs, RE coils, custom 3 link, WJ knuckles, 35's
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post #4 of 20 Old 12-07-2017, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
Jayridespow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedJeepster1 View Post
It's a direct swap from the Liberty, bolt on upgrade. And in my opinion it's a worthy upgrade. I run ZJ rear disk brakes and really like them. Ran them with 33's for about a year. Only part of the swap that I believe won't be straight pull from the Liberty and apply to your Cherokee is the e brake cables, but you can modify your stock cables to work with the liberty brakes.
Thanks! Iím headed to the jy today to yank some parts

JDL
Pagosa Springs, Co
Wolf Creek pass
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post #5 of 20 Old 12-07-2017, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
Jayridespow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruiser54 View Post
It's easy.

Just get the "guts" from the Liberty prop valve.
Thanks for the pic! That helps fo sho!

JDL
Pagosa Springs, Co
Wolf Creek pass
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post #6 of 20 Old 12-08-2017, 05:23 AM
75SV1
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Morris 4X4 sells brake cables for this. I think the GC brake cables might work. The later XJs take one longer than the other. I think the earlier ones are near even. I'm going off my info of a Ford 8.8 swap. Good to know on the prop valve.
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post #7 of 20 Old 12-11-2017, 06:49 PM
WAKETEK516
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Direct bolt on for the 8.25, or the D35?

Is this all you need?:
-Backing plates
-Rotors
-Calipers
-Pads
-Proportioning valve "guts"

-Brake Lines?
-E-brake cable?
-Anything else?

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post #8 of 20 Old 12-12-2017, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WAKETEK516 View Post
Direct bolt on for the 8.25, or the D35?

Is this all you need?:
-Backing plates
-Rotors
-Calipers
-Pads
-Proportioning valve "guts"

-Brake Lines?
-E-brake cable?
-Anything else?
Either or.

You will want to replace the studs that hold the backing plate to the axle flange. I used new grade 8 3/8" bolts to replace the studs with new nuts and lock washers.

You will have to either shorten or replace the hard brake lines on the rear axle.

Stock e brake cables can be modified to work with this swap. You will have to cut the spring off the end of the cable and wrap the cable around the "finger" on the new backing plate setup. I folded mine back on it self and used cable clamps to hold it in place. They work very well.

That should be everything, including the things you listed above. And then obviously you'll need to able to bleed your brakes, as you will be opening the system to do the swap.

88 YJ with a 4.6l stroker, AX-15, NP231, 2.5" lift, 4.10's and 33's
2000 Silver XJ, 4.0, AW4 with 350k+, Locked C8.25 w/ Chromos, Trussed hp30, 4.56's, Stiffened, IRO leafs, RE coils, custom 3 link, WJ knuckles, 35's
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post #9 of 20 Old 12-13-2017, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedJeepster1 View Post
Either or.

You will want to replace the studs that hold the backing plate to the axle flange. I used new grade 8 3/8" bolts to replace the studs with new nuts and lock washers.

You will have to either shorten or replace the hard brake lines on the rear axle.

Stock e brake cables can be modified to work with this swap. You will have to cut the spring off the end of the cable and wrap the cable around the "finger" on the new backing plate setup. I folded mine back on it self and used cable clamps to hold it in place. They work very well.

That should be everything, including the things you listed above. And then obviously you'll need to able to bleed your brakes, as you will be opening the system to do the swap.
Awesome!!

What year liberty?

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post #10 of 20 Old 12-13-2017, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WAKETEK516 View Post
Awesome!!



What year liberty?


Whatever years they made the bubbly looking libertys. Google should tell you. I pulled my parts from a ZJ so idk the liberty years.


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88 YJ with a 4.6l stroker, AX-15, NP231, 2.5" lift, 4.10's and 33's
2000 Silver XJ, 4.0, AW4 with 350k+, Locked C8.25 w/ Chromos, Trussed hp30, 4.56's, Stiffened, IRO leafs, RE coils, custom 3 link, WJ knuckles, 35's
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post #11 of 20 Old 12-13-2017, 03:49 PM
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Snag the longer bolts from the Liberty.

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post #12 of 20 Old 12-13-2017, 05:03 PM
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Snag the longer bolts from the Liberty.
What bolts are you referring to?

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post #13 of 20 Old 12-13-2017, 06:08 PM
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What bolts are you referring to?
The studs that hold the caliper bracket on.

also, make sure you get longer lug studs either new of from the Liberty.

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post #14 of 20 Old 12-13-2017, 07:09 PM
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Yup, forgot to mention wheel studs. I used front XJ studs.


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88 YJ with a 4.6l stroker, AX-15, NP231, 2.5" lift, 4.10's and 33's
2000 Silver XJ, 4.0, AW4 with 350k+, Locked C8.25 w/ Chromos, Trussed hp30, 4.56's, Stiffened, IRO leafs, RE coils, custom 3 link, WJ knuckles, 35's
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post #15 of 20 Old 12-16-2017, 09:40 AM
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You might need a spacer on your axle shaft behind the axle bearing retainer plate since the backing plate for the disc setup is most likely thicker than the drum backing plate. Without this spacer your axle bearings wont have the proper pre-load and the axle shafts themselves will slide in and out of the housing excessively. Comparing the thickness difference between your drum and disc backing plate will tell you what size spacer you need. Teraflex and some other companies sell spacers for this purpose, you might also be able to gain the spacer you need by using Liberty axle bearing retainer plates instead of XJ retainers.
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