Intermittent driver window - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 14 Old 05-17-2019, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
earljeeper1
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Intermittent driver window

Hi folks, having an issue with power window, driver's side, working only occasionally, and getting stuck at various points. As always, appreciate your experience and advice. 1999 Cherokee Sport 4.0.

Background:

1. Passenger front window started failing a few months ago.

2. The driver side (one with issue) has had a noisy regulator for years at the bottom end of the cycle when the window is almost all the way down, kinda grinds and vibrates. It has started acting up last 3 weeks with this new behavior of stopping, however.

3. I did the bridge (all soldered) across the tan and yellow wires on the lower connector inside the cab lower left to work around the child safety lockout button failure issue. Worked just fine on the passenger side, works all the time now.

4. Driver side still very intermittent, sometimes runs through several cycles fine, but usually it stops somewhere moving up or down.

5. Pulled the door harness boot away from both ends of the driver door, cannot find any evidence of issues. Wires look clean and in good shape. I jiggled several, nothing to suggest a break inside wires, but not conclusive, of course...

6. I have an extra complete window/door lock control panel, I connected it up as a test, all the behavior was the same.

7. Anyone know the specific wire colors in the door harness that feed to the control connector in the door?

Any other ideas? Just replace the motor/regulator and see if it fixes everything? (But then why does it work sometimes...?)



Thanks!

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post #2 of 14 Old 05-18-2019, 12:26 AM
TheBoogieman
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When mine did that, the motor/regulator was going out. For $35 it's worth replacing.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinmichguy_ View Post
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post #3 of 14 Old 05-19-2019, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
earljeeper1
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Thanks for the likely confirmation, will proceed that way. Thanks!
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post #4 of 14 Old 05-20-2019, 06:20 PM
Muddyfun89
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The joys of manual crank windows lol. But yeah it sounds like it’s time to break down and replace the motor/regulator. I’m not sure if they’re a combined unit on the XJs or separate, if they’re separate might as well do both while you’re in there.
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post #5 of 14 Old 06-03-2019, 08:47 PM
KF4SQB
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A fairly common issue with older window motors are the brushes in the motor. They could be either worn way down, so that they no longer have the proper pressure against the commutator, or they could be sticking in their holders, which, again, leads to reduced pressure against the commutator. Either problem can cause the issues you describe. The next time the window stops moving, try opening the door, then slamming the hell out of it, then try the window again. If it starts working, chances are that you have worn and/or sticking brushes (slamming the door can make them move, and reestablish contact for a short period). Time to either try to find brushes (good luck), or find another window motor.
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post #6 of 14 Old 06-05-2019, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
earljeeper1
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Yep, received it. See when I overcome laziness and put it in...
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post #7 of 14 Old 06-05-2019, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
earljeeper1
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That may be implicated, I did as you suggest, worked initially. Then in a subsequent occurrence, it didn't. Will put in new regulator. Thanks for responding.
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post #8 of 14 Old 05-23-2020, 08:40 AM
Treelandl48
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I'm having similar issues that are driving me nuts. I'm getting power to the tan wire in the door controller, but NOTHING works in the drivers doors or any other three. No windows, locks, nothing. I bought another window controller unit and same issue. Still power to the tan wire (main hot coming in) but no control over any thing else. Any ideas? I realize that the wires through the boot may be broken, but why won't the drivers door window or mirror work? Again, I'm getting 12 volts to the unit.
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post #9 of 14 Old 05-23-2020, 12:03 PM
JWELK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Treelandl48 View Post
I'm having similar issues that are driving me nuts. I'm getting power to the tan wire in the door controller, but NOTHING works in the drivers doors or any other three. No windows, locks, nothing. I bought another window controller unit and same issue. Still power to the tan wire (main hot coming in) but no control over any thing else. Any ideas? I realize that the wires through the boot may be broken, but why won't the drivers door window or mirror work? Again, I'm getting 12 volts to the unit.
You have a broken wire in the harness. Quite common. And most likely a ground wire. As you say you have 12 volts. Do you still have the 12 volts when you try to activate the windows/door locks? It is possible the 12 volt feed disappears when under load.
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post #10 of 14 Old 05-23-2020, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KF4SQB View Post
A fairly common issue with older window motors are the brushes in the motor.
I agree. My driver side rear kept acting up until it quit for good. I was curious so I took it all apart figuring I had to dig it all out to replace it anyway. But I took the motor apart and the brushes had some black goo all over them. After a good cleaning the motor worked like new. Cost: $0.
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post #11 of 14 Old 05-23-2020, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fourspeedman View Post
I agree. My driver side rear kept acting up until it quit for good. I was curious so I took it all apart figuring I had to dig it all out to replace it anyway. But I took the motor apart and the brushes had some black goo all over them. After a good cleaning the motor worked like new. Cost: $0.
My passenger side window never worked from the passenger door, but worked from the driver's control so I never cared. Two years later my rear windows quit working too. Luckily it was a 5 minute fix for the child safety locks. Two of my regulators have been clicking (for 2 years) if you don't let off the button the second they are up. I'm waiting for them to go out completely before fixing them.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinmichguy_ View Post
TheBoogieman is a jerk.
03' Rubicon/Zone 4" coils with 1" spacers up front/Rancho shocks/5.13 gears-35" MTZs/Black Magic brakes.
99' XJ /4.0L-AW4/ 5.5" lift / Rancho RS5000X shocks/33" DC Extreme country MTs. Jeep #18
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post #12 of 14 Old 05-24-2020, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBoogieman View Post
if you don't let off the button the second they are up.
My driver side front groans and vibrates like crazy when it is all the way up. I have to time it so I can shut it off right before it gets to the very top. I wonder why?

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post #13 of 14 Old 05-26-2020, 07:32 AM
Treelandl48
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Thanks for all the input. It was a broken wire, the black ground wire. Replaced, spliced and good to go!
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post #14 of 14 Old 05-26-2020, 08:24 AM
Ralph77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fourspeedman View Post
My driver side front groans and vibrates like crazy when it is all the way up. I have to time it so I can shut it off right before it gets to the very top. I wonder why?
It does not automatically stop when your finger is still on the button?
Tries to keep going up?
Mine did the same thing. I think there is a little worm gear in there that gets stripped.
I just replaced the whole regulator.
Problem is the rebranded Dormans I buy at work are so so.
First one lasted 6 months. Second one about 6 years which I just replaced with the third about 2 months ago.
They have a lifetime warranty and it is a relatively easy job but......
Having extra parts I tried to swap a Mopar motor on the Dorman regulator. Cause that is what keeps on dying.
It would not bolt on. Mopar on the left and Dorman on the right.
See that spindle in the middle of the gear? It won't fit in the white plastic cap that it bolts to that is part of the regulator.
I might have been able to do something about that but then I would have had to modify the regulator and I needed it for
the warranty return in case it did not work. My Napa would have taken it but corporate might bounce it back on the store.
Some guys use this one and the design is completely different. Might just say screw it and try it one day.

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