Help!!! Head Removal - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 20 Old 05-16-2009, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
Ac1d
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Help!!! Head Removal

Started pulling the motor apart last night in order to replace a blown exhaust/intake gasket. Once I get everything apart I see that the rear lower bolt (against the firewall) is broken off in the head. So I head to the auto-parts store this morning picked up a new head gasket and valve cover gasket. Since pulling the head out is the only way that I can get to the stupid thing. Everything has gone pretty smooth thus far. Just need to know if there is a specific de-torque sequence for removing the head bolts. Also is there a specific order that they need to be removed in.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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post #2 of 20 Old 05-16-2009, 12:50 PM
HankyDanky
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Not for removing but you need to keep all of the rockers and rods in order! And put them back where you took them out. There is a spec torque for reinstalling and bolt tightening sequence though. Give me a mintue and I will get pic's out of my manual for you.

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post #3 of 20 Old 05-16-2009, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I put all of the rockers and bolts in bags and labeled them after I did each one. Then did the good old cardboard trick for the rods.
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post #4 of 20 Old 05-16-2009, 12:56 PM
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http://jeephorizons.com/tech/99_40l_torque_specs.html For specs

1989 Cherokee 4.0l, Rubicon Express 4.5" XJ Super-Flex System, 33x12.50x15 KM2's

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post #5 of 20 Old 05-16-2009, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
Ac1d
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It says the torque specs are 100ft lbs. for bolt #11 and 110ft lbs. for all the other bolts. I'm wondering if I have to tighten it to lets say 22ft lbs. on each bolt, then 45lbs and do a final tightening to 110ft lbs.. Also I'm having trouble figuring out which bolt is #11, from the diagram it looks like the front drivers side, but I'm really not sure.
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post #6 of 20 Old 05-16-2009, 04:42 PM
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What year is it?

Yes, it's a good practice to "walk" the torque up so the gasket gets evenly compressed.

There are also specific torque values and sequence for the manifold. If you need that too, let us know (that's why I asked the year.).

Last edited by Saudade; 05-17-2009 at 08:36 AM. Reason: Misread post...
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post #7 of 20 Old 05-16-2009, 05:11 PM
HankyDanky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ac1d View Post
It says the torque specs are 100ft lbs. for bolt #11 and 110ft lbs. for all the other bolts. I'm wondering if I have to tighten it to lets say 22ft lbs. on each bolt, then 45lbs and do a final tightening to 110ft lbs.. Also I'm having trouble figuring out which bolt is #11, from the diagram it looks like the front drivers side, but I'm really not sure.
Walk it up if it makes you feel better. The arrrow in the diagrahm is bolt number 11. Front drivers side

1989 Cherokee 4.0l, Rubicon Express 4.5" XJ Super-Flex System, 33x12.50x15 KM2's

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post #8 of 20 Old 05-16-2009, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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Alright, 2 broken drill bits and a snapped bolt extractor later the snapped off bolt is out. Now for the fun part before putting the head back in. There's a nice orange residue left on the bottom of the head and the top of the block from the head gasket. Any ideas on cleaning the surfaces? There's also a bit of carbon buildup on the top of the pistons and the head where the valves are. Should I bother cleaning this or is it fine to just leave be? and what would you guys recommend for cleaning it. Oh, almost forgot, my rig is an 89.

Last edited by Ac1d; 05-16-2009 at 06:47 PM.
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post #9 of 20 Old 05-16-2009, 06:53 PM
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You will have to thouroughly clean the head and block surfaces if you want the gasket to seal. I use a gasket scraper, but a putty knife should work. Be sure to not get any of the material in the water jackets or bolt holes. The number 11 bolt will need some sealant on it.

  1. '95 XJ country edition, 4" coils/3/4" spacers, HD leafs with extra main added in, Ironman adjustable control arms, rough country shackles, aussie locker, JK rubicon shocks, 35" mudder's, soft 8's, cobra cb
  2. Sold'99 WJ limited, 4.7L, 3" IRO lift. Bilstein shocks, JK rubicon wheels, 255/70/17's, carolina driveshaft, IRO adjustable control arms, IRO adjustable A-arm
  3. Sold '00 TJ, 4" lift, rusty's adjustable control arms, skyjacker shocks, rock krawler adj. trac-bar,rugged ridge SYE and RE driveshaft, soft 8's, 35" mud king xt's,XJ HP D30 w/aussie locker, 4:88 yukon gears, hella 500's, rock crusher diff covers
4. 04 Dodge ram 1500 quadcab, yes, it has a hemi.
5. '08 BMW X3, Mods in progress.
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post #10 of 20 Old 05-16-2009, 11:27 PM Thread Starter
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Alright, all cleaned up and ready to install. Now is where I'm really in trouble, the manual says to use perfect sealer on the head gasket. Only problem is auto-parts store closed at 10pm. Luckily I had some forethought and bought two types of gasket sealant. First is a high temp (650F) silicon rtv style. Second is called copper spray a gasket, high temp. gasket sealant.
Which one do I use? And more importantly where?

The guy at the auto store was telling me that there is only a couple of small area's on the head gasket that need the sealant. Anyone know where these areas are, or even better have a diagram.
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post #11 of 20 Old 05-16-2009, 11:41 PM Thread Starter
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Great to add to my confusion I just checked the gasket, from felpro. It saying printoseal, basically it looks like there's already small (1/16") beads of sealant around the cooling jackets and the whole outside edge. Also it says use no sealer. I really don't want to wait till the morning to go in and ask, any one on here know weather I should use the sealant or not. Considering the gasket itself says not to.
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post #12 of 20 Old 05-17-2009, 01:21 AM
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I have always put the "Print-o-seals" on plain. Make very sure you clean all the mating surfaces with just laquer thinner or carb cleaner followed by brake cleaner and a clean paper towel. Make sure all the metal surfaces "squeak" when rubbed. Enjoy finding all those little cuts and hangnails that you didn't know you had. I guarantee that the gasket will "stick" very well and seal perfectly.
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post #13 of 20 Old 05-17-2009, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
Ac1d
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Thanks again for the info, I tend to be a worry a bit when it comes to working on the internals of my motor. Anything else I don't think twice about, just haven't worked on the internals much.
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post #14 of 20 Old 05-17-2009, 08:54 AM
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Good luck and let us know how it goes.

  1. '95 XJ country edition, 4" coils/3/4" spacers, HD leafs with extra main added in, Ironman adjustable control arms, rough country shackles, aussie locker, JK rubicon shocks, 35" mudder's, soft 8's, cobra cb
  2. Sold'99 WJ limited, 4.7L, 3" IRO lift. Bilstein shocks, JK rubicon wheels, 255/70/17's, carolina driveshaft, IRO adjustable control arms, IRO adjustable A-arm
  3. Sold '00 TJ, 4" lift, rusty's adjustable control arms, skyjacker shocks, rock krawler adj. trac-bar,rugged ridge SYE and RE driveshaft, soft 8's, 35" mud king xt's,XJ HP D30 w/aussie locker, 4:88 yukon gears, hella 500's, rock crusher diff covers
4. 04 Dodge ram 1500 quadcab, yes, it has a hemi.
5. '08 BMW X3, Mods in progress.
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post #15 of 20 Old 05-25-2009, 08:33 AM Thread Starter
Ac1d
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Sorry haven't been able to post all of last week been a bit busy. I wasn't able to get the project complete. But should be done today. Have the head on and bolted down. Just need to go from there, shouldn't take long though. Just a couple of questions first.

What are the torque specs for the rocker arms?
And second, I've heard you have to burp the coolant when removing a good amount of it. How the heck do you do this? Or do you just top off the system and make sure there's plenty in the overflow bottle?
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