Complete Instructions for Eliminating Oil Filter Adaptor on Jeep XJ Cherokee - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 29 Old 02-01-2011, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
Darp
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Complete Instructions for Eliminating Oil Filter Adaptor on Jeep XJ Cherokee

This project started after reading several threads on the onerous task to dealing with Oil Filter Adaptor oil leaks. Some folks having to use 30" of leverage to break the bolt loose that attaches to Adaptor to the block, because the factory has red Locktited it on. Like many others I suspected a rear main oil leak as the wind and gravity makes it cover everything behind it such as starter and rear main area. It was seeing oil all over the top of the starter that clued me in that it was the adaptor. The best solution is to eliminate the adaptor putting a smaller oil filter directly to the block. I have done so and it works great, zero oil drip, same oil pressure as before, its easier to change the OF that before AND NO MORE OIL FILTER ADAPTOR TO LEAK AS THEY ALL DO AS the O-RING NEVER GETS REPLACED ON OIL CHANGES AND IS A TOTAL BEAR TO DO.

The genesis of this was a post by Gunner, thanks Gunner:


03-28-2010, 12:34 PM #20 Combat_Gunner
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This is an old thread, but I wanted to chime in here, for the many who will eventually need to fix this leak. Once you have the oil filter adapter removed from the block, you'll notice the threads to which the filter attaches have a 1" hex head around them. Using a 1" socket, you can remove this male/male thread adapter and screw it directly into the side of your engine block, to eliminate the 90* elbow adapter. After buying the O-ring kit and spending several hours getting the thing off, it seemed ridiculous to put the adapter back on there, when I could simply thread the filter directly to the engine and remove the possibility of future leaks from the adapter. There is a roll pin that locates the adapter, it must be pulled out of the block, but otherwise it's a simple matter of using the male/male adapter out of the elbow assembly, threading it into the block, and screwing on a new filter. Access to the filter is now easier, the only O-ring involved gets replaced with the filter, and you'll never have to deal with a leaky oil filter adapter again.

Yes, oil will run down the side of your engine when you change the filter. I own a Harley, so I'm accustomed to that. That is why I keep a supply of carburetor cleaner on hand. After the oil and filter change, just douse the whole oily area generously with cleaner, let the mess run off into your oil catch pan, and go on with your life.



I found that post to be true and have finished the job.

Here are two threads on the problem and various ways to break the OFA bolt loose. Both have a bunch of photos, hence why postig them. But there is a better way.http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Oil_Filter_Mount_O-Rings.htm

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/oil-filter-adapter-o-ring-9625/

Without having to remove the motor mount and jack up the engine nor weld up special tools I was able to not only get the adaptor out, but also eliminate the adaptor and not have to buy the O-Rings nor ever have to deal with this problem again. This job takes less time than replacingthe O-Rings and facing the same problem again (with these instructions).

Here are the steps, read all of them first before starting, not too long:

1. The Adaptor either has a female hex or TORX, the TORX is T60 and more common. I have 96 XJ 4.0 it was TORX.

2. Used a std TORX L Wrench set from O'Rielly's. Brand is Performance Tool # W1319 it has T40 thru T60, you only need the T60 AND the T55, more on T55 later. Only $10

3. I did not remove Battery cable at first, mistake I did arc a wrench from block to starter after the adaptor was off getting the roll pin out. Remove a Battery post cable.

4. Work from underneath, I have 32" tires and fit without jacking. Underneath is easy.

5. Suggest engine cleaner/steam clean the entire passger side of engine on top and underneath first, and if the bolt torx hole is plugged with mud and oil like mine, use coat hanger and spray with WD40 or something, scrape it out.

6. Getting that T60 L Wrench aligned was one of hardest parts, did so from below. It took me minutes to get it aligned and drop in Used screwdriver to pry the elbow part to seat as deep as possible, very close to a bolt on frame.

7. Have oil pan ready, it will leak.

7B. Leave the Oil Filter ON the adaptor, easier that way, only one drip to deal with.

8. Used a 3/8 drive deep socket about 9/16" over the long end of L wrench and connected three 3/8" extensions together about 20" total. Two and 17" were not enough. Some people have gone 30" before it broke. A 1/2" socket and extensions would be even better. Presto, think got the bolt loose easier than anyone else have heard of. Good news, did no alteration except steam clean (wish did even more) and remove starter cable hold down bolt next to adaptor. No Motor mount no nothing.

9. The t60 L Wrench requires less clearance than 1/2 drive socket others have used, thus why they welded up custom tools and removing the motor mount, this technique requires no extra work. But even with a T-60 L Wrench it might hit frame before 100% out that is where the T55 comes in below.


10. I was able after 1/2 turn with helper extensions to use just the T60 L Wrench to back it out. It will start leaking, have a pan under it. Let it leak till slows.

11. The perfect tool to back out bolt more after no longer high torque is a T55 L wrench, remembered it grabbed, much much much easier to align. If you wrench from outside under (away from block) you can do it while its dripping without getting oily.

12. After about 3-4 turns the oil filter and the adaptor (left as one unit) can rotate (the locating roll pin inside is cleared. Thus you turn the oil filter all the way up. And BTW do all this from below except rotate the entire assembly, which did from above. I was able to do all this with zero mods, just took out the bolt that holds the starter cable and moved the starter cable behind the oil filter while it was still attached.

13. Pointing the oil filter up will (hopefully) just about empty both, it will pour more oil at this point. Now point the oil filter down so when it comes loose no oil will come out.

14. Next step is to remove assembly, just keep using the t55, its fast.
It dropped free easy and with oil out and tilting up no oil drip.

14. Next step is to remove assembly, just keep using the t55, its fast.
It dropped free easy and with oil out and tilting up no oil drip.

14B. Now for a tricky part the roll pin that prevents the adaptor from rotating needs to be removed, destroying it is fine but you do not want to leave half of it. 10" vise grips full on did not do it. Was thinking of chiseling it as where it goes is inside gasket mating surface and deeper. Those threads referenced at top of this post have pics of roll pin and everything else FYI. Then remembered my bolt cutters. Perfect crushed the pin 50% from underneath with the bolt cutter then pried it against block and bingo it came out.


14C. Remove the double male nipple that the oil filter screws down on. Glad this board has edit feature. Take the OF and Adaptor as one unit, put adaptor in vise gently then remove the filter with pan under it.
14D. You will see a 1" hex nut on double nipple inside, with 1" socket remove it, normal threads do it counterclockwise.
14E. Now with a 1" socket install on the block where the TORX bolt was. A wrench will not work well, its recessed, get a socket. I cleaned the threads and then sprayed primer on threads that goes into the block. And torqued down while wet. Have found paint and primer make a decent low strengh locktite and prevent rust on external bolts. Wipe off any that ozzes out.

15. The original OF was a tad too big to fit FYI directly to the block, width issue against the motor mount area. But a Fram Ph 3614 fits great.

16. Now for a tricky part the roll pin that prevents the adaptor from rotating needs to be removed, destroying it is fine but you do not want to leave half of it. 10" vise grips full on did not do it. Was thinking of chiseling it as where it goes is inside gasket mating surface and deeper. Those threads referenced at top of this post have pics of roll pin and everything else FYI. Then remembered my bolt cutters. Perfect crushed the pin 50% from underneath with the bolt cutter then pried it against block and bingo it came out.

17. The job is done, except for putting a new oil filter back on, The stock one is a bit wide, but a Fram PH 3614 is a perfect fit, identical gasket diameter and threads. I put on an even smaller Mobil one but will soon swap in the 3614. The Ph 3614 is used on Toy FJs, full size pickup trucks and Lexus and Ford V8s. Its smaller so it fits.

You are done no more oil leaks, mine has not leaked a drop in two days and 150 miles. No more Adaptor to leak in the future. The oil pressure is identical to what it was before 60 PSI.

Here are specs on oil filter to use:

Brand Fram
Manufacturer's Part Number PH3614
Part Type Oil Filters
Product Line Fram Extra Guard Oil Filters
Summit Racing Part Number FRM-PH3614

Oil Filter Style Canister
Height (in) 3.360 in.
Outside Diameter (in) 3.000 in.
Filter Bypass Relief Valve Yes
Relief Valve Open (psi) 9-12 psi
Anti-Drainback Valve Yes
Smallest Particle Filtered 20 microns
Thread Size 3/4-16 in.
Gasket Outside Diameter (in) 2.781 in.
Gasket Inside Diameter (in) 2.484 in.
Gasket Thickness (in) 0.203 in.


Thanks for all those who provide info on this, these forums are great time savers. I will post this alone after posting at end of this thread.


Cheers, Darp

Here is how it looks:



Last edited by Darp; 02-03-2011 at 10:50 AM. Reason: Ad a pic
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post #2 of 29 Old 02-03-2011, 12:33 AM Thread Starter
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Here are the images. One shows the original filter on right, the too small one that works which I put on first and the one you want to use on left, Fram PH3614.

I swapped in the PH3614 today, nice fit just as expected. A 5 min job to change the filter now. Tested it for 15 miles including some bumps and heavy on off acceleration, not a drop leak and it does not hit the frame mount for the motor mount.

In the photo of the orange filter installed ignore the bolt, that is way above it. It has about 5/16" clearance at closest point which is forward at outside of filter to the mount support. No reason it should ever hit it, and if it does oil filters are tough and attached by a huge and strong bolt.

Cheers

http://img171.imageshack.us/i/sdc10608l.jpg/

http://img546.imageshack.us/i/sdc10606.jpg/
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InstalledOilFilter-sml.jpg  

Last edited by Darp; 02-03-2011 at 12:39 AM. Reason: add pic
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post #3 of 29 Old 02-03-2011, 08:33 AM
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Sweet, I may have to do this. Mine is horrible... Of course I think the rear main is leaking too...got a 10 minute fix for that?

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post #4 of 29 Old 02-03-2011, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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Land Rover,

Thanks. Am most pleased how it worked out too.

On Rear Main, it just might be fine, no way to tell with Adaptor leaking. I have 169k on it, and sure enough the suspected rear main leak has gone away, just oil getting pushed back with the wind. Now I can park in driveway again.

If you do have a rear main after fixing the Adaptor issue, there are products that swell oil seals to maybe fix it.

Also there are ways to replace it by just dropping the pan leaving the crank in and pushing the upper in place which pushes the old out.

I have not done it, only done rear main with engine out.

Cheers
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post #5 of 29 Old 02-03-2011, 10:48 AM
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I'll take a look at the adapter and see if I can tell how bad it's leaking. I may live with it for a while... I have a spare wrecked XJ with a low mileage motor. Motor swap is on deck for this summer. I'll follow these instructions, but with a new step 1: Remove entire engine from vehicle that should make wrench clearance a little easier. The new motor will go in with no adapter though, for sure. Thanks for the write-up.
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post #6 of 29 Old 02-03-2011, 11:07 AM
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The rear main isnt as bad to replace as you might think. The hard part is getting the oil pan off.

Friends dont let friends do DUBS.
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post #7 of 29 Old 02-03-2011, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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XJ in case mine ever really goes out (Rear Main) what type it it? rope or two rubber pieces?

Land Rover, yep with engine out no wrench clearnce problems although it is stuck on so hard make sure engine secured when you wrench it.

I would leave the oil filter off until engine in and tape hole over for easier drop in..

Cheers
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post #8 of 29 Old 02-12-2012, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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Better Oild Filter choice for Conversion (adaptor elimination)

I have used Fram PH3614 and a Purolator equivalent, but am getting too much of dent on oil filetr from motor mount support going down steep trails. Have found that a WIX 51348 is identical except it is 2 13/16 diameter case instead of 3" on Fram.

Just swapped in a Wix 51348, it is a better fit.
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post #9 of 29 Old 02-18-2012, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darp View Post
I have used Fram PH3614 and a Purolator equivalent, but am getting too much of dent on oil filetr from motor mount support going down steep trails. Have found that a WIX 51348 is identical except it is 2 13/16 diameter case instead of 3" on Fram.

Just swapped in a Wix 51348, it is a better fit.

Some more info on this:

I posted about completly eliminating the 90 deg adapter and o-ring because it will go out again, I still have an oil spot from a year ago. The taking the hollowbolt from adaptor, going straight into the block then simply spining on an oil filter (smaller OF to fit) does work.


I have had one problem after 20,000 miles. I go down a 2/3 mile 2,000' drop trail, rather frequently and with 178k the engine mounts are soft and the engine goes forwardand dents the OF with the engine mount supprt. On mine a 3/8" gap.

With Fram it never leaks but with Purolator extra duty 99% OF it did open a leak in OF case as guess since better with metal endcaps inside the purolator case can not dent as much and it did develope a split.

Unfortanately it is very hard to get to that spot to grind back the frame support another 1/4" which would have no effect on strength, its just extra metal. So I rounded it with file. Just had this problem.

My plan is to put a poly engine mount in so it does not shift as much. or if anyone has another idea to prevent enging from shifting forward?

So check yours for clearance. You can do the swap without losing the ability to go back to adaptor at no cost, just swap the hollow bolt back.[/quote]


I found that the WIX OF that fits same apps, the 51348 is 2 13/16" instead of 3" OD at the top (away from block), which is where with worn motor mounts it could bang aganist motor mount support on steep downhill 4wd trials. It is just not the specs, I compared them visually. So now using a WIX 51438 for the Oil Adaptor elimination route. And I will put in poly motor mounts too.

Also on preventing the engine from surgeing forward, can see a solution. There is a heavy stamped metal covering over the motor mount, that does the mounting. If you were to drill 2-3 holes through it, lets say for 1/4" or 5/16" self tapping bolts, which bolts an additional plate that can be bolted on top that would go rearward to within 1/4" of where engine part that the MM bolt goes through. That way the engine can only surge forward 1/4" before it hits, protecting the new location of the oil filter which has about 1/2" clearance.
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post #10 of 29 Old 06-26-2012, 09:56 AM
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Just finished doing this, thank You guys so much for posting this! Mine was pretty easy to do. I did the same as DARP as far as using the bolt cutters to remove the pin, but for the TORX I had a t60 with the attachment on it, so I popped it out and used a wrench with a jack handle attachment as a breaker bar. I worked from the top and it came loose after a few seconds. Everything else I just followed this thread and it went smoothly. No leak now and everything is running nice. The little pin is the hardest part but using bolt cutter to crush it enough for the bolt cutters to hold and then prying it out worked great. Thanks for this post, the best one on fixing this thing.
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post #11 of 29 Old 09-29-2012, 02:30 PM
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so not liking the sound of this roll pin is there no way to take the assembly off with out breaking it? that is assuming i can get that far i cant even get the thing broken loose to begin with

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post #12 of 29 Old 10-11-2012, 08:24 PM
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I need new o-rings but now Im thinking about doing this. Could I remove my filter, the adapter, then just thread the single piece into the block, screw the filter on, and be done with it without buying new o-rings? Also, how much oil do you have to drain in order to pull the filter without it leaking everywhere? I may just have to change the oil even though I changed it last week and my adapter just started leaking today.
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post #13 of 29 Old 10-11-2012, 08:57 PM
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While I commend the amount of thought that went into this, is it really a good idea? I mean once you get the OFA off, putting the new o-rings in and putting it pack together isn't a big deal, and they last about 100K miles right? The biggest PITA when replacing the O-rings is getting that torx bolt out, which still has to happen to make this modification. And instead of being able to run a larger than stock filter like the 51515, you have to run an undersized filter, and still might have interference issues. Since I haven't done this mod, I can't say how easy/hard it is to get the filter on and off, but I always thought the stock configuration was pretty darn easy to get to and it never causes and problems. Seems like you do all the work to fix the leak, then just say **** it and throw on whatever size filter fits.
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post #14 of 29 Old 10-11-2012, 09:02 PM
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I just read that you can leave the filter on and unbolt the assembly, remove it, and only spill a small amount of oil. Going to pick up new o rings tomorrow. HELP part # 82560
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post #15 of 29 Old 10-31-2012, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donthelegend View Post
While I commend the amount of thought that went into this, is it really a good idea? I mean once you get the OFA off, putting the new o-rings in and putting it pack together isn't a big deal, and they last about 100K miles right? The biggest PITA when replacing the O-rings is getting that torx bolt out, which still has to happen to make this modification. And instead of being able to run a larger than stock filter like the 51515, you have to run an undersized filter, and still might have interference issues. Since I haven't done this mod, I can't say how easy/hard it is to get the filter on and off, but I always thought the stock configuration was pretty darn easy to get to and it never causes and problems. Seems like you do all the work to fix the leak, then just say **** it and throw on whatever size filter fits.
I agree with Don. I prefer to use a full size oil filter. Once you get it off, that's 95% of the work.
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