Cherokee Only Starts After Battery Is Disconnected and Reconnected - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 02-09-2020, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
speed_BMW330i
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Cherokee Only Starts After Battery Is Disconnected and Reconnected

1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport (automatic transmission) only starts if battery is completed disconnected & reconnected.

(*) Jeep does not crank nor any clicking sounds. However the interior lights, radio and dash light up just fine.
(*) Battery is new.
(*) New Starter was just professionally replaced a few months ago.
(*) No alarm systems whatsoever.
(*) When the car is running, everything seems fine.
(*) Issue is intermittent. Does NOT happen each and every time the car is started but seems to happen with recurring frequency.

I've read some other forums that have suggested that the negative battery cable has gone bad.

However if that is the case, then why do the lights/radio/dash turn on but the car will not crank/turnover?

Thanks in advance for any ideas/thoughts.

Martin


Last edited by speed_BMW330i; 02-09-2020 at 08:31 PM. Reason: spelling
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post #2 of 10 Old 02-09-2020, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
speed_BMW330i
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Cherokee Starts After Battery Is Disconnected & Reconnected

1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport (automatic transmission) only starts if battery is completed disconnected & reconnected.

(*) Jeep does not crank nor any clicking sounds. However the interior lights, radio and dash light up just fine.
(*) Battery is new.
(*) New Starter was just professionally replaced a few months ago.
(*) No alarm systems whatsoever.
(*) When the car is running, everything seems fine.
(*) Issue is intermittent. Does NOT happen each and every time the car is started but seems to happen with recurring frequency.

I've read some other forums that have suggested that the negative battery cable has gone bad.

However if that is the case, then why do the lights/radio/dash turn on but the car will not crank/turnover?

Thanks in advance for any ideas/thoughts.

Martin
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post #3 of 10 Old 02-09-2020, 11:01 PM
2oldjeeps
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i extended a wire from the solenoid up near the batt. i can jump it
direct to the batt and it either cranks or the starter is bad.
i have alsu screwdriver jumped the big starter cable to the solenoid connector
in a pinch to crank/start. be in park huh?

99wj,143,000 miles
00xj,177,000 miles
10hummer3,74,000 miles
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post #4 of 10 Old 02-10-2020, 04:48 AM
CJ7-Tim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speed_BMW330i View Post
I've read some other forums that have suggested that the negative battery cable has gone bad.

However if that is the case, then why do the lights/radio/dash turn on but the car will not crank/turnover?

Because the dash light take a few amps to run, and the starter takes great deal of power to run.



Perform routine maintenance of the start and charge systems. Remove, clean, and firmly reconnect all the wires and cables to the battery, starter, and alternator. Look for corroded or damaged cables or connectors and replace as needed. Copper wires should be copper color, not black or green. Battery terminals and battery wire connectors should bright silver, not dull gray to blackish and corroded. Do the same for the grounding wires from the starter to engine block, the ground wires at the coil, and the ground wires from the battery and engine to the Jeep's frame/body. You must remove, wire brush, and clean until shiny the cable/wire ends and whatever they bolt onto.
 
Jeeps do not tolerate low voltage, bad wire connections, or poor grounds.
 
 
Place your DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Multi-Meter) on the 20 volt scale. First check battery voltage by placing your multi-meter's positive lead on the battery's positive post ( the actual post, not the clamp ) and the negative lead on the negative post. You need a minimum of 12 volts to continue testing. Next, leave your meter connected and take a reading while the engine is cranking. Record this voltage reading. Now connect your positive lead to the battery terminal stud on the starter and the negative lead to the starter housing. Again, crank the engine and record the voltage reading. If the voltage reading at the starter is not within 1 volt of battery voltage then you have excessive voltage drop in the starter circuit.
 
Typical voltage drop maximums:
• starter circuit (including starter solenoid) = 0.60 volt
• battery post to battery terminal end = zero volts
• battery main cable (measured end to end) 0.20 volt
• starter solenoid = 0.20 volt
• battery negative post to alternator metal frame = 0.20 volt
• negative main cable to engine block = 0.20 volt
• negative battery post to starter metal frame = 0.30
• battery positive post to alternator b+stud = 0.5 volt with maximum charging load applied (all accessories turned on)
 
  
Have your helper turn the ignition key to START while you tap gently on the starter with a hammer. If the engine starts, you probably need a new starter.
 
Test the output at the alternator with your volts/ohms multi-meter. You should be measuring 13.8-14.4 volts. Have the battery, starter, and the alternator Load Tested for proper function in a test machine that applies a simulated work load. Handheld testers are inaccurate and will often pass faulty parts.

.


.

.
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post #5 of 10 Old 02-10-2020, 07:01 AM
Fourspeedman
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^^^What Tim said^^^. I had the same issue. It turned out to be a bad negative cable. I could not see any problems with the stock cable but once I replaced it with a much thicker cable the problem never came back. The stock cable was very thin gauge and the one I replaced it with was almost three times as thick. Solved.

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post #6 of 10 Old 02-10-2020, 08:25 AM
Saudade
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Based on your symptoms, I check and clean the battery cables at both ends first. You can get your symptom if there's poor electrical contact despite a good mechanical one. It would allow enough current to pass to supply the lights, etc., but not enough to crank the starter. This could also generate a lot of heat if you key the key to START too long.

Whlie you're cleaning the ends, take note of the copper wire on the positive side at the end of the insulation. Look for corrosion that may have traveled under the insulation. In that cae I'd replace it.
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post #7 of 10 Old 02-10-2020, 08:29 AM
Saudade
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I didn't realize you had a double post. I responded in the other one. Than repeat it here, I'll add:

^^^What Tim said^^^ as well.
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post #8 of 10 Old 02-10-2020, 07:43 PM
car6car
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to start starter voltage goes to starter solenoid. If voltage doesn't get there., it is lost somewhere: starter relay, ignition switch.
Voltage goes: battery - ignition switch - starter relay - starter. I missed a few "stops" (most likely 2 fuses) because I didn't check electrical diagram.
Always start with electrical diagram.

04 Grand (dead)
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post #9 of 10 Old 02-17-2020, 01:25 AM Thread Starter
speed_BMW330i
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Thanks for the reply.

This is exactly what the issue was. The cable were very loose with minimal contact. I replaced the bolts and nuts and added a few washers and tightened them up and now she runs great.
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post #10 of 10 Old 02-17-2020, 01:27 AM Thread Starter
speed_BMW330i
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Thank you for responding. A loose connection was the culprit. I tightened them up and now she works great. Will probably clean the terminals once the weather improves. Too damn cold to be fussing the car right now.
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