blower motor and pigtail assembly - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 20 Old 08-28-2008, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
blacky_j
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blower motor and pigtail assembly

98 cherokee, 6 cyl, 4x4

i got my a/c checked out (wasn't blowing out of any of the vents) and like i thought the pigtail assembly has melted.

they said that i need a new blower motor and pigtail assembly. $567 (240 for the blower motor and 130 for pigtail and another 130 for labor) to fix, so i just figured if the job is easy i might as well turn it into a weekend project.

anyone know exactly how difficult of a job it is to replace the blower motor and pigtail assembly? i've personally don't have too much knowledge on the a/c system.

Also what would cause the wiring to melt? I understand things break down after a while but how can i prevent the wiring from melting once again? What would cause it to over heat like that?


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post #2 of 20 Old 08-28-2008, 10:32 AM
XJLI
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If the pigtail is just the wiring its really plug and play. I got a blower motor from napa for 30 bucks and changed it in like half an hour.

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post #3 of 20 Old 08-28-2008, 11:11 AM
CJ7-Tim
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On the 1997-2001 the blower is partially blocked by the receiver/dryer. It will take longer than 1/2 hour to fix. You may be able to gently push aside the A/C plumbing to get at the blower motor. Worst case, get your A/C drained, remove the receiver/dryer, replace the blower motor, put the A/C parts back in place and get the A/C recharged.

Depending on where the pigtail is burned you may be able to splice in the wires, or you may have to stop at the junkyard and get another pigtail.

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post #4 of 20 Old 08-28-2008, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
blacky_j
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aw man, this seems really difficult. its so hot in houston. Well more than likely i'll prolly just replace the whole pigtail wiring whatever. I don't wanna go used because i don't want this happening again.

so if i did just replace the whole pigtail wiring and blower motor, would it be still be easier than splicing in the wires? i'm guessing i'm prolly going to have to drain the a/c and reboost. if that is the case would it be more productive if i just bought the parts and just pay for the labor to have a shop do it?

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post #5 of 20 Old 08-28-2008, 12:25 PM
mecompco
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$567 is insane. Buy a NEW motor and solder on a pigtail--it's the motor that went bad and overheated the pigtail so using a JY pigtail is fine. I would be surprised if you spent more than $40 and an hour or two's labor on the whole project.

'94 Cherokee Country
Engine: 4.0 HO, Sealed canister filter, 3 core CSF steel radiator, CatCo cat, Dynomax Turbo Flow muffler.
Electronics: Remote start/locks, Pioneer DEH-P7800MP w/XM, Polk Audio speakers, Garmin Nuvi 660 GPS, Cobra 148 GTL P&T w/Wilson 1000.
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Steering: Currie HD steering, C-ROK steering box reinforcement, OME stabilizer.
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Drive train: D30 front axle w/Superior Chromo D30 axles & outter seals, D/S 4.56 R&P, ARB locker, Ruff Stuff cover. Ford 8.8 rear axle w/Superior Super 88 kit, Ford Motor Sports 4.56 R&P, ARB locker, SOLID cover, Russell stainless lines. Front and rear Tom Woods HD drive shafts, 242 x-fer case w/Tom Woods SYE.
Tires/Wheels: 33x10.5x15 BFG Mud Terrains on Alcoas.
Misc: Garvin Wilderness rack, Safari Snorkel, Redline Tuning hood lifts.
Awaiting installation: Autometer A pillar gauge pod, oil, water, & tranny temp guages, PIAA driving lights, Goferit tie-rod flip bushing, '95 Brake booster and M/C, M.O.R.E. Motor mounts, TnT Custom 1.5" Shackle.
Stroker Project: HO Block, '99 intake manifold, bored TB, 1" TB spacer, Dynomax Blackjack Header, Permacool electric fan.
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post #6 of 20 Old 08-28-2008, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mecompco View Post
$567 is insane.
isn't it usually?

one of the guys even took a dollar from the 5 dollar 1's i had in my car and bought himself a coke at the vending machine in the waiting room i was in.

should of asked him if he was enjoying that refreshing coke before i left.

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on the flip side, i'll probably just end up doing this over the weekend. any of you positively sure if i have to drain and recharge the a/c before i do all that?

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post #7 of 20 Old 08-28-2008, 03:40 PM
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I have a spare blower motor and wiring, if you're interested. PM me.
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post #8 of 20 Old 08-28-2008, 05:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacky_j View Post
on the flip side, i'll probably just end up doing this over the weekend. any of you positively sure if i have to drain and recharge the a/c before i do all that?
I can verify that you don't need to discharge and recharge the A/C to get to the blower motor. When I replaced the blower motor on my '98, I was able to free up enough room by unbolting the accumulator bracket from the firewall and loosening up the clamp holding the accumulator to the bracket and pulling the bracket completely off of the firewall leaving the accumulator in place. With the bracket removed, I was able to rotate the accumulator at the spring lock coupler to the evaporator outlet enough to get the blower motor off. Be advised that you could potentially cause a leak if an O-ring is damaged in this process, but I've had no problems since doing this 3 months ago.

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post #9 of 20 Old 08-28-2008, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Rico View Post
I can verify that you don't need to discharge and recharge the A/C to get to the blower motor. When I replaced the blower motor on my '98, I was able to free up enough room by unbolting the accumulator bracket from the firewall and loosening up the clamp holding the accumulator to the bracket and pulling the bracket completely off of the firewall leaving the accumulator in place. With the bracket removed, I was able to rotate the accumulator at the spring lock coupler to the evaporator outlet enough to get the blower motor off. Be advised that you could potentially cause a leak if an O-ring is damaged in this process, but I've had no problems since doing this 3 months ago.

-Ed Rico
I did the same thing over 6 months ago and my AC still works fine.

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post #10 of 20 Old 08-28-2008, 10:38 PM
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Try www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=367612. Title is 97+Blower Motor Replacement on 01-28-2007, from Mortalenema. It is outstanding, showing all the pictures you need to do the job. Phil
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post #11 of 20 Old 08-29-2008, 01:07 AM Thread Starter
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well thanks alot for your help guys! That takes care of the blower motor, how would the pigtail wiring be done?

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post #12 of 20 Old 08-29-2008, 07:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacky_j View Post
well thanks alot for your help guys! That takes care of the blower motor, how would the pigtail wiring be done?
The new blower motor will come w/o the plastic connector so you will have to find one at a junk yard (since yours is melted). Get some shrink wrap tubing and solder. Put a piece of tubing on each wire, then twist the appropriate wires together and solder them. Push the tubing up over the solder connection and gently heat it with a heat gun or other heat source. Then go ahead and install the motor and drive happily knowing you've saved yourself 500 bucks.

'94 Cherokee Country
Engine: 4.0 HO, Sealed canister filter, 3 core CSF steel radiator, CatCo cat, Dynomax Turbo Flow muffler.
Electronics: Remote start/locks, Pioneer DEH-P7800MP w/XM, Polk Audio speakers, Garmin Nuvi 660 GPS, Cobra 148 GTL P&T w/Wilson 1000.
Suspension: Old Man Emu 3" lift+OME AAL, JKS adjustable trackbar, QDs, LCAs UCAs, A.C.O.S., DPG Offroad adjustable bumpstop plate, Daystar poly bumpstops.
Steering: Currie HD steering, C-ROK steering box reinforcement, OME stabilizer.
Armor/Recovery: T&T Custom belly skid, Mopar gas tank skid, JKS LCA mini skids, Rock Lizard Super Skink Sliders, Mopar 2" receiver, ARB Bull Bar/Ramsey REP 8.5 winch.
Drive train: D30 front axle w/Superior Chromo D30 axles & outter seals, D/S 4.56 R&P, ARB locker, Ruff Stuff cover. Ford 8.8 rear axle w/Superior Super 88 kit, Ford Motor Sports 4.56 R&P, ARB locker, SOLID cover, Russell stainless lines. Front and rear Tom Woods HD drive shafts, 242 x-fer case w/Tom Woods SYE.
Tires/Wheels: 33x10.5x15 BFG Mud Terrains on Alcoas.
Misc: Garvin Wilderness rack, Safari Snorkel, Redline Tuning hood lifts.
Awaiting installation: Autometer A pillar gauge pod, oil, water, & tranny temp guages, PIAA driving lights, Goferit tie-rod flip bushing, '95 Brake booster and M/C, M.O.R.E. Motor mounts, TnT Custom 1.5" Shackle.
Stroker Project: HO Block, '99 intake manifold, bored TB, 1" TB spacer, Dynomax Blackjack Header, Permacool electric fan.
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post #13 of 20 Old 08-29-2008, 07:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by filluptrk View Post
Try www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=367612. Title is 97+Blower Motor Replacement on 01-28-2007, from Mortalenema. It is outstanding, showing all the pictures you need to do the job. Phil
Thanks, Phil.

blacky_j, how fried are the wires? Can you see the burnt section? I wonder if the bad motor is the cause it, or if it's all just bad wiring and the motor is fine.
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post #14 of 20 Old 08-29-2008, 07:49 AM
brent_strong
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Isn't the section of wiring connected to the blower motor a small pigtail, with one or two other connectors, a relay and then the plug for the blower motor? If so, I have that whole pigtail that should plug into his existing dash wiring and into the blower motor. At least that's how I envision it.
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post #15 of 20 Old 08-29-2008, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
blacky_j
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mortalenema View Post
Thanks, Phil.

blacky_j, how fried are the wires? Can you see the burnt section? I wonder if the bad motor is the cause it, or if it's all just bad wiring and the motor is fine.
not exactly sure, never know where the blower motor was in the first place thats why i went to go check it out at an automotive shop.

but i do remember they left it on without me knowing it when i was driving back home, and it started to smell like burning wire, havn't looked at it since, too damn hot outside, but im pretty sure its shot.

they told me that the blower motor was faulty too so if they're being honest than its probably that as well.

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